For 110 years, CHANEL Haute Couture has embodied creative freedom, generational savoir-faire, and timeless allure. Excellence and innovation define its instantly recognizable style.
The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture show, the main show at the couture week in Paris, celebrates this endless renewal, which has been the beating heart of the House since 1915, when Gabrielle Chanel first opened her couture house.
Color: through subtle and bold combinations, the Creation Studio has chosen to pay tribute with this Haute Couture collection to a central aspect of Gabrielle Chanel’s work. With her radical use of black,the couturière brought about a major aesthetic revolution. Yet, she was also a great colorist. She worked with every color of the spectrum, from blacks to whites, from the softest pastels to the mostvivid tones.
In the center of the Nave at the Grand Palais, the runway is formed by a double C that resembles the infinity symbol. CHANEL, as the oldest House still in activity, represents this concept. Designed by scenographer Willo Perron, the structure references the chromatic circle chosen for reinterpretation by the Creation Studio. An original score for the show has been composed by Gustave Rudman in collaboration with Michel Gaubert.
The collection features a range of colors including white, pastels, bright tones, midnight blue, and black, reflecting a full cycle from day to night. Starting with the early morning light and continuing into the evening, the color scheme begins at dawn and resumes after dark. The collection includes items such as a pajama-style ensemble in dawn-hued silk crêpe, a sunshine yellow tweed suit, a lilac tweed dress with box pleats, and a white and black painted and embroidered tweed suit. Additionally, there is an orange-pink coat over a purple jacquard dress and a mimosa-colored dress suit with pale pink flounces. The shoes, both flat and heeled, follow this same color logic, ranging from sky blue and violet to white and cream.
CHANEL's allure is highlighted through tweeds, pockets, braids, matching linings, and precious buttons. Vibrant contrasts include bronze, pink, green, yellow, blue, or purple satin linings with graphic, multicolored, or floral braids. Rock crystal, metal, and rhinestone buttons transform into moons, suns, and camellias. Black velvet belts adorned with lunar and solar stars emphasize the significance of black to the House.
Alternating between short and long, the dresses are also both at once. The delicacy of their fabrics allows for a virtuoso play on proportions. Ethereal and embroidered, flounced and pleated, they express the technical sophistication of Haute Couture. Stardust dress, red dress in embroidered chiffon, shirt dress with a pleated plastron in pale yellow double satin, long puffed sky-blue cape, white sequined dress worn with a coat in champagne tweed: the collection is imbued with hints of afairytale. Through the lightness of the materials and subtle trompe l’oeil, painted lace and embroidered chiffon enhanced with halos of color give the perfect illusion of tweed. A dreamlike and theatrical imagination brought to life by Haute Couture.
A manifesto of beauty and a discipline of excellence, CHANEL Haute Couture – which celebrates its 110th anniversary this year – offers the Studio unlimited scope for creation. With intense precision and great freedom, the Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection conveys the values and explores the codes of the House. As Gabrielle Chanel once said, “Comfort has forms. Love has colors.”
Courtesy: Chanel
Text: AN