POSTED BY HDFASHION / November 11TH 2026

The 8 Shows That Defined Paris Fashion Week

From Anthony Vaccarello’s swan song at Saint Laurent, staged beneath golden chandeliers, to Matthieu Blazy’s birds of freedom at Chanel and Alessandro Michele’s Antilibrary at Valentino, Paris Fashion Week offered no shortage of talking points. As the shows draw to a close, HD Fashion rounds up the eight collections that caught our eye.

CHLOÉ

Whether Chemena Kamali will remain at the helm of Chloé beyond her third year is a question the fashion industry has been asking, amid speculation linking her to Saint Laurent. For now, however, her latest collection for Chloé felt like a wholehearted love letter to the bohemian woman who has become her signature. Presented at the Observatoire de Paris, the show was framed around what Kamali described as an obsession: a return to the house’s archetypes, revisited with the romantic sensibility that has come to define her tenure. Broderie anglaise adorned skirts and ruffled blouses; fringes, Seventies flares, vinyl raincoats, capes and voluminous dresses brought a familiar free-spiritedness to the runway. There was a more personal note, too. Each guest found a Chloé scrapbook at their seat, filled with backstage photographs capturing moments from Kamali’s first three years at the house. It was an intimate gesture, one that invited a question: was this simply a celebration of the community she has built, or a more emotional reflection on a chapter nearing its end?

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 009. Courtesy of Chloé.

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 010. Courtesy of Chloé.

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 020. Courtesy of Chloé.

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 032. Courtesy of Chloé.

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 039. Courtesy of Chloé.

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 042. Courtesy of Chloé.

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 049. Courtesy of Chloé.

Chloé Summer 2027, The “Obsession” Collection, Look 053. Courtesy of Chloé.

CELINE

Michael Rider is having a moment in Paris, and his latest collection for Celine offered another compelling argument for his quietly assured vision. Staged beneath a thatched roof in the garden of the Archives Nationales, in the Marais, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection celebrated what the designer presented as a form of positive obsession: a devotion to fabulousness, big emotions and the art of an elegant gesture. Rider let the clothes speak for themselves. Sleek blazers with broad shoulders, paper-bag trousers, trench coats and fluid silk tops formed the backbone of a wardrobe designed to move effortlessly between occasions. The Little Black Dress appeared in several guises, each offering a different take on Parisian nonchalance, while oversized belts cinched blazers, turtlenecks and dresses with a decisive flourish.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 001. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 003. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 013. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 017. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 022. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 028. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 042. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Summer 2027, Look 063. Courtesy of Celine.

VALENTINO

Alessandro Michele chose one of Paris’s most atmospheric intellectual landmarks for his latest Valentino show: the historic Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, a short walk from the Panthéon and the Jardin du Luxembourg. Surrounded by rows of books, guests were invited to consider the Japanese concept of tsundoku, the habit of accumulating books one has yet to read, alongside Nassim Nicholas Taleb’s idea of the Antilibrary. Popularised by Taleb through his reflections on Umberto Eco’s vast personal library, the concept celebrates the knowledge that remains undiscovered in the books we have not yet opened. Michele translated that idea into fashion, imagining unworn clothes as stories not yet told, or lives still waiting to be lived. The collection unfolded through Eighties-inspired power jackets, feather-trimmed pencil skirts and jewel-toned satin bustiers, each piece suggesting another possible version of its wearer. In a charming gesture that extended the show’s intellectual premise beyond the runway, guests were invited to bring a book to donate to Parisian public libraries. Perhaps reading really is the new cool.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 043. Courtesy of Valentino.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 057. Courtesy of Valentino.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 015. Courtesy of Valentino.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 030. Courtesy of Valentino.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 040. Courtesy of Valentino.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 045. Courtesy of Valentino.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 016. Courtesy of Valentino.

Valentino Spring–Summer 2027, The “Antibiblioteca” Show, Look 080. Courtesy of Valentino.

MIU MIU

For the first time, Miu Miu took its place on a fashion Sunday rather than bringing Paris Fashion Week to a close on its final day. The setting, however, remained the same: the Palais d’Iéna, where Miuccia Prada turned her attention to the realities of dressing for the here and now. This season’s scenography was developed in collaboration with French filmmaker Alice Diop, whose installation Geste de constellation is set to feature in the Art Basel public programme sponsored by Miu Miu. The collection itself was a characteristically Miuccia exercise in contradiction, bringing together everyday sportswear, collegiate references, office tailoring and vintage subversions. Boyish blazers, low-slung pleated skirts, tartan kilts, pouf-like miniskirts and wool trousers were styled with crystal-encrusted sports bras, raglan-sleeved activewear and cropped workout tops. Practicality, it seems, need not come at the expense of a little eccentricity. Among the season’s talking points were a new collaboration with New Balance, reworked Wrangler denim drawing on the brand’s late-20th-century heritage, and a star-studded cast that included Olivia Colman, Emma Corrin, Jamie Bell and Gigi Hadid. At Miu Miu, the here and now is rarely quite what it seems.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 074. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 007. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 018. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 023. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 039. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 064. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 070. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miu Miu Spring–Summer 2027, Look 071. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

TOM FORD

For next spring, Haider Ackermann proposes a different kind of seduction at Tom Ford. What if revealing less could, paradoxically, reveal more? What if the art of dressing were less about exposure than the intricate tension between what is shown and what remains concealed? Staged at Place Vendôme, the show unfolded in a darkened room lined with vast mirrored panels, allowing guests to watch the models, and their own reflections,as the collection passed before them. It was an apt setting for a designer interested in the many facets of desire. Ackermann remained faithful to his razor-sharp tailoring, offsetting it with slashed bodysuits, swimwear and sculptural leather bustiers. Eveningwear delivered the expected dose of glamour, with silky gowns in the deep, saturated reds of Tom Ford’s signature lipstick shades.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 041. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 001. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 022. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 045. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 048. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 049. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 062. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring–Summer 2027, Look 066. Courtesy of Tom Ford.

DIOR

Jonathan Anderson continues to write his own chapter at Dior. This season, against the elegant backdrop of the Bassin Octogonal in the Jardin des Tuileries, he explored the idea of lightness of movement, of fabric and, perhaps, of being dressed at all. Organza and chiffon lent a sense of transparency to jackets, trousers and miniskirts, echoing an approach the designer had also explored in his menswear collection earlier in the year. Elsewhere, metallic trousers with a python effect introduced a sharper, more assertive note, while jackets assembled from hundreds of hand-dyed silk mousseline and organza petals demonstrated the collection’s more intricate side. The result was a study in contrasts: structure against fluidity, embellishment against airiness. At Dior, Anderson is beginning to establish a vocabulary of his own, one in which couture craftsmanship meets a more experimental, almost weightless approach to dressing.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 004. © GoRunway.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 005. © GoRunway.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 017. © GoRunway.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 023. © GoRunway.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 046. © GoRunway.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 051. © GoRunway.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 052. © GoRunway.

Dior Spring–Summer 2027, Look 061. © GoRunway.

CHANEL

A year on from his Chanel debut, Matthieu Blazy is only just getting started. For Spring/Summer 2027, the designer turned his attention to Gabrielle Chanel’s lifelong pursuit of freedom, one of the defining impulses behind her approach to fashion. At the Grand Palais, models strode beneath monumental birds, their wings evoking the promise of escape, while the collection explored the house’s familiar codes through a subtly offbeat lens. Classic tweed suits returned with softly rounded, almost oversized shoulders, while tailored ensembles were paired with crisp linen shirts. Eveningwear, meanwhile, was lavishly embroidered yet retained an appealing sense of ease. “It’s a collection about Gabrielle Chanel’s layered stories. Ultimately, Chanel took off, and each step she took off led her to being free as a bird,” he explained in his show notes. For Blazy, freedom is not so much a destination as a way of dressing.

Chanel Spring–Summer 2027, Look 016. © CHANEL.

Chanel Spring–Summer 2027, Look 022. © CHANEL.

Chanel Spring–Summer 2027, Look 029. © CHANEL.

Chanel Spring–Summer 2027, Look 034. © CHANEL.

Chanel Spring–Summer 2027, Look 054. © CHANEL.

Chanel Spring–Summer 2027, Look 055. © CHANEL.

Chanel Spring–Summer 2027, Look 079. © CHANEL.

SAINT LAURENT

Among the most memorable moments of the week was Anthony Vaccarello’s final show for Saint Laurent, a collection that felt all the more poignant in light of the announcement that followed days later. Working within a tightly edited palette of gold, black and rich, tactile textures, the designer made a compelling case for the enduring power of the house’s codes. Beneath monumental chandeliers, models swept down the runway in impeccably cut sahariennes, trench coats, fluid blouses, wrap skirts and sharply tailored suits, while touches of fur and strong-shouldered coats and blousons lent the collection a distinctly nocturnal glamour. It was a confident statement from a designer who had spent years refining the house’s seductive vocabulary. For the finale, Saint Laurent’s longtime muse Charlotte Gainsbourg sang “You Are So Much Yves Saint Laurent”, a fitting tribute to the designer whose vision had brought a contemporary edge to the founder’s legacy.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 001. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 008. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 015. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 022. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 039. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 046. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 053. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Summer 2027, Look 058. Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Text: Elena Stafyeva
Courtesy: Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dior, Tom Ford, Miu Miu, Valentino, Celine, Chloé