The new Dandy: J.W. Anderson’s Inaugural Collection for Dior is set to be Universally Adored

Few events have been as eagerly anticipated as Jonathan Anderson's debut at Christian Dior, capturing the interest of everyone, even those outside the fashion world. After all, Dior is one of the few fashion houses that is recognized by the general public. The appointment of the new creative director generated significant buzz, especially since, for the first time in Dior’s history, this role encompassess all areas – menswear, prêt-à-porter, and haute couture. This means J. W. Anderson and his team will be responsible for producing eight collections per year – a monumental task in the contemporary fashion industry.

Anderson’s debut as the new creative director was for Dior’s menswear SS2026. So, what did we witness?

Firstly, there was a noticeable shift in the overall atmosphere, which was, of course, expected. In contrast to Kim Jones’ large-scale performances, known for their artistic flair, Anderson’s show was very intimate. The venue was styled after Berlin's Gemäldegalerie Museum in minimalist way – walls in Dior’s favourite shade, Louis XV gray, light-colored parquet floor, and cube benches made from the same material for the guests. Models walked closely, almost at eye level with the audience. The guest list included not only celebrities but also other designers – representing LVMH brands such as Pharrell Williams and Sylvia Fendi, and other fashion brands such as Stefano Pilati, Simon Porte Jacquemus, and also  Donatella Versace. Equally intimate were the two still lifes by Jean Baptiste Siméon Chardin, hung on opposite walls, appearing as though they were remnants from the museum. Both were small as is typical of the artist’s work: one, a vase with flowers, from the National Galleries of Scotland, and the other, a punnet of wild strawberries, from the Louvre.

The fashion show itself was organized in a tent near the walls of the Hôtel des Invalides, the same location where it has been held for the past few seasons. Gonsidering this is the home of Napoleon's tomb, and taking into account what was displayed, a clear temporal and cultural sequence was presented to the audience: from Chardin and the 18th century, adored by Monsieur Dior himself, through Napoleon’s dramatic reign to the Restoration and Europe’s leading male fashion icon of that era, the first dandy, Beau Brummell.

Jonathan Anderson introduced a new image of the Dior dandy, who appears to be closely related to the original. To achieve this, he employed the principle of mixing vintage pieces with contemporary street fashion (which itself heavily incorporates these pieces) – an approach we’ve observed frequently over the past 15 years. The most striking vintage elements were those referencing early 19th-century fashion. Short waistcoats worn next to the skin, velvet tailcoats paired with jeans, white tie silk scarves worn with everything, wide capes, and high collars with ties from that era were featured in every second look. Have you heard the story of Beau Brummell spending three hours in front of the mirror, trying to perfect such a tie, and discarding dozens of starched and ironed ones in frustration? It was likely Jonathan Anderson's way of reminding us of this legend.

The collection also featured regular jeans and sneakers, including sneaker-moccasin hybrids with relaxed lacing, as well as short knitwear, sweaters, shirts, and long knitted capes. Notably, there were pieces inspired by three haute couture dresses from the early Dior era – the Caprice, the Cigale, and the Delft. Dior's heritage was also evident in a sleek men's version of the Bar jacket. Overall, it should be noted that all volumes were quite neat, without any excesses.

The styling of the entire show was executed masterfully, highlighting its importance over fashion design itself. This, combined with a very Instagrammable mix and specific items (like the high collars) with great meme potential, aligns with the commercial vision Dior is pursuing. The first images chosen by Anderson for advertising – Lee Radziwill and Basquiat – forge a connection between «old money» and «art-inspired», two of the most popular fashion themes in the social media space. This suggests that Dior's success is secure, at least in the near future.

Courtesy: Dior

Text: Elena Stafyeva