Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons Take Their Greatest Hits out of the Closet

Over the seasons, we have observed that Prada alternates between outstanding collections and simply good ones. But even these merely good ones set the tone for the entire season, so that the whole mass market copies their main hits, and many other brands can only dream of achieving such “goodness.” In comparison to the previous collection, which was absolutely outstanding, the current prêt-à-porter collection for Spring-Summer 2025 fits this description perfectly.

We usually expect some cross-talk between Prada’s menswear and womenswear collections, and this time was no exception. The references were evident, including literal ones, such as trousers with printed belts, slipper sneakers, and pullovers with prints resembling shirts worn underneath. However, it wasn’t these cross-references that defined the connection, but rather the visual effect of clothes that appear to be blown by the wind. This effect was previously seen at the men's show in June when collars, hems, and sleeves seemed to be frozen in a gust of wind. This wind-blown effect is achieved by a wire inserted into the collars and cuffs of shirts, the fronts of trenches, and the hems of dresses. One must admit that it is all gorgeous, particularly the pink and blue shirts that closely resemble those from the menswear collection, as well as the transparent chiffon dresses worn over woollen tights. The show-opening flower slip dress with wired hem and straps was especially notable. This slip dress was worn by a boyish model, creating an initial impression that a boy was walking the catwalk, but no –– this is simply Prada's favourite game of blending men’s and women’s wardrobes, or, more precisely, playing with the stereotypes of masculinity and femininity.

Last season (the collection is currently in stock in Prada’s boutiques), the main story featured men's suits and women's dresses deconstructed and then mixed together. Here, there’s only a distant echo of that theme, and there is no overarching concept, making the entire collection seem somewhat eclectic, as if it were assembled from different years and places, and created by different people. This is the first time in the last couple of years that the differences between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are so clearly visible. However, this lack of a single theme and the level of integrity and structure possessed by other collections in recent seasons, have not diminished Prada’s main feature—its suggestive power, meaning the ability to make everyone want to wear exactly what Prada has showcased. And we can say with absolute certainty that next spring, people will be seen on the streets of various cities wearing these coloured ribbed tights with belts. And those who believe that the theme of panties and other underwear as self-sufficient clothing is already overexploited (although the coat with a striped vintage-style swimsuit is one of the highlights of the collection) will wear skirts with snap hooks (another showstopper item) or skirts with huge round cutouts in a metal frame, or vinyl mini skirts with photo prints. The remarkable shoes from various previous seasons have been taken out of the closets. And, of course, the 60s-style panama hats with “windows” on the brim and huge Spiderman-like sunglasses will be everywhere on Instagram accounts around the world. This power that Prada has always possessed has now acquired exceptional focus and sharpness, solidifying its status as the most influential fashion brand of our time.

Also, it’s a fact that if Prada’s collection for a particular season is simply good, then Miu Miu’s will be outstanding. So, we just can’t wait to see what Miuccia has in store for us on the Miu Miu catwalk in Paris. And may the force be with Signora Prada!

Courtesy: Prada

Text: Elena Stafyeva