Hermès has fully embraced the concept of mid-season shows and, as usual, has crafted its own unique format for them.
While others are showing cruise collections, Hermès presents Fall 2025, Chapter Two, which is actually the second part of the autumn collection. Previously, it was in New York; now it's in Shanghai. Each time, Nadège Vanhée, the creative director of women's collections, finds a way to connect with the women of the particular city, creating a collection that considers their image. In New York, she portrayed an empowered woman, highlighting both her strength and attractiveness directly and openly like never before. In Shanghai, it is a supermodern woman for whom fashion, comfort, and freedom of movement are a triune essence.
Never before have the Hermès looks been so multi-layered and well-composed, with an abundance of accessories. Yet, they did not appear overloaded or burdensome; on the contrary, they looked as modern as possible, with maximum combinatorial capabilities.
Almost every model featured two cashmere sweaters – one worn on their torsos and another wrapped around their waists – with the latter tied either under the coat or over it. One of the most striking entrances was a model in a quilted leather coat in a mushroom shade of brown with a dusty-lilac sweater tied on top, a leather baseball cap matching the coat, an orange scarf around her head and neck, a lilac jumper under the coat, and something orange peeking out from beneath it.
Under the sweaters you could see shirts, under the shirts – scarfs or turtlenecks. Boots were worn over high cashmere stockings, leather jackets were layered and cuffs were added to leather mittens. One bright brown leather jacket was worn over a lilac anorak, the second of the same color was tied around the hips, and an orange jumper was tied over it, accompanied by high brown knee-highs and high lace-up suede boots. All these pieces appeared very fluid – they changed their nature and purpose right before our eyes, as jackets with high-rolled sleeves turned into tops, coats with a half-unfastened lower part, held by a zipper, resembled flowing dresses, and headphones around the neck replaced a necklace.
A special mention should be made about the accessories: Hermès always excels with them, but this time, it was a virtuoso performance. Silk scarves were styled as ear warmers over baseball caps, secured with earrings, or looped around the neck. The models wore mini Kelly bags, often slung across the chest, perfectly completing their looks.
Nadège Vanhée commented on this approach as follows: "The modularity is a way to express your creativity." This modularity suggests that each look can be worn in four or five different ways, depending on the context, purpose, and circumstances. This high degree of adaptability is seen today as an absolute value because it reflects the very essence of modern life, changing at galloping speeds. And in this ability to feel and express reality lies the essence of fashion.
Courtesy: Hermès
Text: Elena Stafyeva