Polka dots — whether whispered in microform or declared in bold, ballroom-sized circles — are having their most glamorous reincarnation yet. This timeless print, with its paradoxical personality of playful whimsy and couture precision, has been seducing wardrobes for centuries. But in Copenhagen this season, it didn’t just return — it took over.
Once a flirtatious accent in 19th-century menswear — think dandyish ties and silky scarves — polka dots found their eternal muse in women. Audrey Hepburn wore them with understated grace, Marlene Dietrich gave them cinematic gravitas, and Marilyn Monroe infused them with undeniable allure. From there, the motif was no longer a pattern. It was a cultural statement.
This Spring/Summer 2025, dots resurfaced with unapologetic confidence. Acne Studios, Moschino, Valentino, and Carolina Herrera reimagined the print through a contemporary lens — sharper tailoring, unexpected fabric juxtapositions, and scale play that danced between art and provocation. As these collections hit the boutiques, the trend spilled effortlessly into everyday style.
By Spring/Summer 2026 in Copenhagen, the momentum had swelled. From Caro Editions’ romantic interpretations to Rolf Ekroth’s daring insertion of dots into menswear, and Rotate’s poetic micro-dot finale, the Danish capital’s runways became a living constellation.
If the catwalks were the theory, Copenhagen’s streets were the proof. Known for fearless layering, graphic audacity, and a palette that refuses to be shy, the city provided the perfect playground for the print’s rebirth.
Here, head-to-toe dot sets commanded attention — billowing skirts with matching blouses, ruffles amplifying their drama, volume giving the dots room to dance. And while the maximalists had their moment, the minimalists whispered their presence: a chiffon polka-dot blouse tucked into wide-leg beige trousers; a cropped blazer paired with a micro balloon skirt and pointed heels — understated, but lethal in its elegance.
Polka dots also proved a versatile canvas for creativity. Accessories bearing the motif, worn with all kinds of fabrics, became instant statement-makers. The pattern’s playful side shone when paired with other prints: in one look, polka dots mingled with stripes — an unexpected yet effective combination. Stylists stressed that colour coordination is key when mixing patterns; having at least one shared hue, such as brown in this case, helps to unify the overall look.
he magic this season lies in adaptability. With shifts in scale, placement, and texture, polka dots can be rebellious or restrained, vintage or hypermodern. They’re the rare print that asks nothing of you but attention — no full wardrobe reset required.
As fashion’s pendulum swings between nostalgia and novelty, polka dots prove they’re not just survivors of style history. They’re shapeshifters. Eternal. Endlessly reinvented. And right now — impossible to ignore.
Text: Editorial team
Photo: Francesca Babbi