Contemporary Preppy Boys: Fendi Marks the Beginning of Its Centennial Celebration With the SS25 Menswear Collection

The creative force behind Fendi’s menswear collections, Silvia Venturini Fendi has always been passionate about experimenting with the form of men’s dressing: deconstructing it, assembling it like a patchwork, and allowing herself to create pieces that may not always be practical yet bring a fresh perspective to contemporary menswear. This exact visionary approach is at the heart of her design philosophy. For Fendi’s first collection of its centennial season (the Roman Fashion House was founded in 1925), the designer stayed true to her signature style while drawing significantly from the brand’s rich history.

The central theme of the collection was the preppy style. The distinct vibe of American university students was evident on the blazers’ breast pockets, v-neck sleeveless sweaters, ties and baseball caps. All of these items were adorned with the renewed Fendi coat of arms, combining the signature Double F logo designed by Karl Lagerfeld, Pequin stripe, Janus, the Roman god of beginnings and endings and a squirrel — a nod to the nickname of Adele, the wife of the fashion brand's co-founder, Edoardo Fendi. However, the most important aspect of this logo is that it gives a sense of belonging to an exclusive circle, which the brand aptly named The Fendi Club. The idea is very commercial itself, however undeniably effective, and these particular items will likely become hits next season.

While the lineup featured various casual trench coats and plaid trousers, relaxed t-shirts, sheer shirts, cardigans, and shorts, the collection was dedicated to and inspired by the traditions of Fendi’s craftsmanship. Its core element is the Selleria stitching, used mostly on leather bags and jackets. This time the stitching appeared on shirts, tank tops, and t-shirts — all made of jacquard, linen and plush, embellished with the hand-painted pattern. While wool outerwear and knitwear were threaded forming the countered line. These accentuated details add a twist to the layered silhouette, especially styled with poplin shirt sleeves slashed at the elbow, or with polo plackets asymmetric cut from throat to rib. Deconstructive silk knits were unbuttoned down the shoulder, creating an airy modularity. Elsewhere, the Selleria patterned bags that models clutched in their hands while marching the catwalk, were decorated with the same logo crest, like on the new Peekaboo ISeeU Soft bag and supple diagonal shoppers. Subtle yet sophisticated. And quintessentially Fendi.

After all, this collection reflects the Spring-Summer season, and Venturini Fendi showcased a lot of wide-cut shorts adorned with probably one of the most eye-catching accessories of the SS25 show, the moulded lug-sole loafers and patent leather or wax thread-embroidered slip-on flat. And that was the soft spot of Fendi’s season. Awkwardly fitting while models walked in these, it decisively shattered the integrity of the looks.

Silvia Venturini Fendi continues to refine her aesthetic of men’s attire, skillfully blending the codes of traditional masculinity and femininity in silhouettes and accessories, where ultimately the first one prevails and each element perfectly matches the other. Venturini Fendi presents a portrayal of the modern Fendi hero: confident yet knowing his boundaries, embracing forms and silhouettes that stand the test of time and complement his personality. With a keen eye for blending Roman House’s heritage with innovation, she crafts a narrative where timeless elegance meets contemporary zeitgeist, resonating with a sophisticated Fendi audience attuned to all the nuances of the times we live in.

Courtesy: Fendi

Text: Oleg Tsozik-Wroblewsky