All That Sparkles: The Best of Summer’s High Jewellery Collections

Each July, as haute couture week unfolds, Paris shimmers to the rhythm of diamonds and vibrant gemstones. The world’s finest jewellers unveil their most dazzling creations on Place Vendôme, and we’ve rounded up the season’s most spectacular highlights.

Chaumet, Jewels by Nature
Chaumet returns to its roots, quite literally, with Jewels by Nature, a high jewellery ode to the house’s enduring love affair with flora and fauna. Nature, both humble and noble, takes centre stage: bees and butterflies, dragonflies, carnations, clovers, sword lilies and dahlias are brought to life across 54 exquisite creations. The Everlasting set dazzles with fancy yellow and white diamonds, echoing the wild rose. Meanwhile, Oat and Field pays homage to Chaumet’s legacy of brushed goldsmithing, and the Carnation set draws the eye with exceptional sapphires: each piece a poetic celebration of the natural world, as seen through the maison’s lens for the past 245 years.

Boucheron, Impermanence 
Every July, Claire Choisne unveils her carte blanche: a high jewellery reverie unfettered by convention. This season, it’s Impermanence, a quietly powerful meditation on nature’s fragility and the urgency to protect it. The collection comprises six sculptural pieces, each alive with motion and meaning. Brooches resemble thistles, bugs and caterpillars; necklaces bloom like celestial flowers; rings evoke fleeting whimsy. Together, they form an eloquent tribute to the ephemeral beauty of life, and the jewellery that immortalises it.

Repossi, Blast
A single cuff sparked it all: inspired by the spiralling lines of Masai and Miao tribal adornment, Blast has been reimagined into 21 haute joaillerie pieces that speak the language of bold sensuality. Golden threads and Repossi’s signature pear-shaped diamonds dance around generous, sculptural curves. Rooted in ancient craft and guided by Japanese philosophy—particularly the Ensō, a circle symbolising harmony and eternity—Blast offers a contemporary meditation on form, tradition, and timelessness.

Gucci x Pomellato, Monili

Unveiled on the runway during Gucci’s Cruise 2026 show in May, the Monili collection instantly captured attention, both from the front row and the house’s most devoted clients. A rare collaboration between two Kering powerhouses, the high jewellery line (named after the Italian word for “jewels”) marries Gucci’s savoir-faire in leatherwork with Pomellato’s storied heritage in goldsmithing and gem-setting. The result? A bold, sculptural fusion of fashion and fine jewellery inspired by Pomellato’s iconic designs from the 80s: statement necklaces, cuffs and, yes, leather clutches embellished with pavé diamonds, all crafted in white gold, rose gold, and supple leather.

Dior, DIOREXQUIS
There’s always a touch of alchemy in Victoire de Castellane’s work for Dior Joaillerie, where poetry meets precision, and imagination is elevated by technical mastery. This year, she unveils DIOREXQUIS, a dazzling new chapter in the maison’s high jewellery story, shaped around three emblematic Dior themes: enchanted landscapes, delicate bouquets, and dreamlike balls. Together, they form a radiant triptych, each tableau echoing Monsieur Dior’s enduring love for the natural world and his fascination with the opulence of extraordinary fêtes. Crafted with rare virtuosity by the Dior Ateliers, the pieces are as mesmerising in technique as they are in spirit. Case in point: the opal doublet, where a shimmering layer of opal is mounted atop onyx or mother-of-pearl, conjuring the hypnotic tonal shifts of sky and sea.

Fendi, Eaux d’Artifice
To mark its centenary, Fendi turns to its roots—with a resplendent high jewellery collection that pays homage to Rome, the Eternal City, and its iconic fountains. Designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Eaux d’Artifice is a tribute in three parts: three singular parures, three sculptural cocktail rings, and one showstopping pièce de résistance—the centennial necklace. At its heart sits a 20.25-carat cushion-cut Fancy Vivid Flawless Yellow diamond, surrounded by a cascade of 100 pear-shaped yellow diamonds, one for each year of the house’s storied history.

Tasaki x Ritz Paris, Nouvelle Ére
In a rarefied collaboration steeped in history and savoir-faire, Tasaki and the Ritz Paris unveil Nouvelle Ère, the second chapter of their exclusive high jewellery union, available only within the gilded walls of the Ritz itself. A celebration of the enduring ties between France and Japan, this new collection draws from 127 years of Ritz lore, from its architectural grandeur to its constellation of legendary guests. ​​The Lumineux set evokes the opulence of César Ritz’s fabled soirées: fluid metalwork, luminous diamonds and Akoya pearls capturing the enchantment of a night under the chandeliers. Unisson nods to the free-spirited muses of the 1920s with airy, asymmetrical compositions of tanzanite, aquamarine and pink tourmaline And with Harmonie, Tasaki offers a bold tribute to the powerful women who defined an era, uniting the classic grace of pearls with the unapologetic vibrancy of coloured gemstones.

Chanel, Reach for the Stars
“If you were born without wings, do nothing to prevent them from growing,” Gabrielle Chanel once declared—a mantra that now soars through Reach for the Stars, the maison’s latest high jewellery opus, and the poignant final collection from the late Patrice Leguéreau, Chanel’s visionary Director of the High Jewellery Studio. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s most iconic emblems - the comet, the wing, and the lion - this celestial collection is an ode to boldness, beauty and boundless imagination. Sweeping gem-set cascades, sculptural chokers, between-the-fingers rings, oversized brooches, asymmetrical ear pendants, cuffs and even tiaras, all rendered with striking volume and graphic elegance, form a radiant constellation of pieces that redefine the jewellery dress code. An invitation to reach for the stars.

Messika, Terres d’Instinct 
Valérie Messika has always drawn strength from travel, but it was a recent journey to Namibia that sparked the first chapter of Terres d’Instinct, a 16-piece high jewellery collection that will expand with a second act unveiled during her runway show this September. “This collection speaks the language of the earth—a powerful reminder of where diamonds are born, and the very soul of our maison,” says Messika. “In Namibia, I was captivated by the vastness of the landscapes, the intense ochres, the searing light, and the sovereign majesty of the wildlife. In the face of such untamed nature, only the present moment matters.” But this is no literal interpretation. Instead, Messika channels the spirit of the wild with her signature edge: lion’s claws become elegant diamond pavé rings; arid deserts are reimagined as necklaces blending brushed gold with brilliant diamonds; zebra patterns take form in graphic chokers where sharp onyx collides with icy stones.

De Beers, Essence of Nature, Chapter Two

With Essence of Nature, Chapter Two, De Beers continues its poetic exploration of the landscapes that yield its most extraordinary diamonds—this time turning its gaze to the majesty of trees. From the flame-coloured leaves of the Canadian maple to the sculptural branches of Namibia’s acacia, the towering baobabs of Botswana to the violet bloom of South Africa’s jacaranda, each native tree inspires a high jewellery parure composed of the rarest natural treasures: coloured diamonds.

Bvlgari, Polychroma de Bvlgari
For Lucia Silvestri, every high jewellery collection begins with the stones—and Polychroma is a radiant tribute to their power, beauty, and boundless colour. This season, the Creative Director pays homage to the very gems that have long inspired her, with a particular nod to colourful tourmalines—once overlooked in haute joaillerie until Silvestri brought them into the spotlight, sparking a quiet revolution among her most devoted collectors. ​​There’s the Blooming Garden set, where rose tourmalines bloom alongside rubellites, emeralds and diamonds. Rhapsody of Colour sings with green tourmalines, amethysts, rubellites and fiery mandarin garnets. And of course, no Bvlgari collection would be complete without a serpent: Serpenti Azure winds through a dazzling palette of Paraiba-blue tourmalines, turquoise, emeralds and diamonds.

Graff, 1963
Graff has never been one for excess,  but when the house chooses to make a statement, it does so with unmistakable clarity. This season, that statement comes in the form of a single, spectacular set: 1963, a glittering homage to the year the maison was founded and the spirit of the Swinging Sixties. A necklace, bracelet and show-stopping earrings blaze with 7,790 diamonds (oval, baguette and brilliant-cut), totalling over 129 carats, each one masterfully set in white gold. But it’s what lies beneath that tells the deeper story: a delicate, near-invisible line of pavé emeralds, hidden within the settings and visible only to the most attentive eye. It’s a subtle flicker of Graff green, a coded signature.

Harry Winston, Marvelous Creations
For its Paris presentation, Harry Winston cast a whimsical, poetic line into the waters of imagination with Marvellous Creations, a collection that celebrates the natural world through the house’s signature lens of brilliance and precision. At its heart is the Checkboard Fish Suite, a luminous tribute to the elegance of aquatic life, where yellow diamonds, blue sapphires and colourless diamonds echo the hypnotic motion of gliding fish. High jewellery watches become miniature art pieces, adorned with Japanese artist Riusuke Fukahori’s mesmerising 2.5-dimensional goldfish paintings. And to finish, a charming series of brooches featuring bejewelled birds, delightful in detail, and utterly enchanting.

Pasuqale Bruni, Rosina
With Rosina, Eugenia Bruni invites us into a deeply personal world: a secret garden in Calabria, once tended by her aunt Rosina, the woman who welcomed Eugenia’s father to Vicenza as a young boy. This high jewellery collection is both an homage and a love letter: to Rosina, and to all the women whose strength, tenderness and quiet power shape our lives.At its heart blooms the rose, a vibrant symbol of femininity, rendered as a radiant mandala, a tribute to the balance between earth and sky. Petals dissolve into pavé-set diamonds, catching the light with every movement until all becomes shimmer. Hidden at the back of the central necklace, a heart of pink sapphires and rubies rests close to the skin, a talisman of protection, and a celebration of womanhood in all its phases.

Text: Lidia Ageeva