Cartier’s Art of Watch Metamorphosis

A perennial highlight of the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, Cartier once again reaffirmed its status as the master of horological enchantment this April. With each edition, the Maison proves that timekeeping is not merely a matter of mechanics, but of magic — and this year is no exception. The theme? Metamorphosis. A concept that, in the hands of Cartier’s artisans, or alchemists as they say this season, transforms classic forms into audacious new objects of desire.

‘‘Magic is at the heart of Cartier’s watchmaking vision”, declared Louis Ferla, President and CEO of Cartier, at the fair. “By drawing on the singular expertise of the Maison’s craftsmen, who transform stones and metal into precious objects, Cartier creates exceptional watches. A watchmaker of shapes, Cartier has reimagined its rich heritage of signature creations and reinterpreted its stylistic codes with ever greater creativity and virtuosity.’’

At the heart of this year’s unveiling is a reawakening of the House’s most iconic models — each reinterpreted with a modern sensibility and technical prowess. First among them, the legendary Tank watch, now presented in a bold, larger format that amplifies its architectural lines. Inside, a new-generation Manufacture movement, the 1899 MC with automatic winding, powers the design — available in warm rose or classic yellow gold, while the signature sapphire cabochon crown remains unchanged, a nod to enduring heritage. A particular highlight for connoisseurs is the Tank à Guichets, originally launched in 1928 with a minimalist, avant-garde design intended to shield the dial from damage. It returns in spectacular form, equipped with a specially developed 9755 MC movement featuring jumping hours and dragging minutes. The new version remains faithful to the original aesthetic, with an hour aperture at 12 o’clock, minutes at 6, and the crown intriguingly placed at the top. Available in brushed gold or platinum, it’s a quietly radical piece—a study in discreet complexity.

Yet Metamorphosis is not only about mechanical reinvention. Cartier also continues to redefine the boundary between high jewellery and horology with its watch-bijoux—a term reserved for timepieces so exquisite, they transcend function. Enter Tressage: an intricate sculptural piece in yellow gold, offered with or without diamond pavé, that feels as much a bracelet as a timekeeper. Its woven-like pattern evokes both textile craftsmanship and architectural finesse.

Elsewhere, the iconic Panthère watch undergoes a spectacular jewellery transformation. This time, it’s dressed in a bold new motif—an abstract animal pattern that dances between zebra and tiger, realised in black and golden-brown lacquer, punctuated by pavé diamonds and flashes of orange and yellow spessartites.

Watches and Wonders 2025 edition also sees the Maison pay homage to its most enduring muse: the panther. Long a symbol of Cartier’s untamed spirit, it returns in various guises, from delicate reinterpretations to high-jewellery masterpieces. Among the standout creations: Baignoire bangles in yellow gold, speckled with white diamond “spots,” subtly mimicking the feline’s coat. But the showstoppers are undoubtedly the new Panthère “Toi et Moi” watches — miniature sculptures that curl around the wrist, their faces formed by twin panther heads. One version gleams in yellow gold with tsavorite eyes and black lacquer spots; the other dazzles in white gold, encrusted with 1,103 diamonds, punctuated by piercing emerald eyes and accents of onyx.

Courtesy: Cartier

Text: Lidia Ageeva