"Calla": Katrantzou’s First Collection at Bvlgari

It’s official: Mary Katrantzou is back in the fashion game. The "Calla" collection marks the Greek designer's debut in her role as the Creative Director of Leather Goods and Accessories for Bvlgari. Inspired by the depths of Rome's history and Bvlgari's own iconic legacy, the eye-catching "Calla" accessories bring a fresh perspective on the iconic Jewellery House while putting into spotlight its timeless elegance. Here is everything you need to know about the iconic collection.

WHY CALLA?

At the heart of the "Calla" collection is a motif inspired by the Terme di Caracalla, an ancient Roman bathhouse known for its intricate mosaics and vibrant history. Built in the third century AD and once considered one of the seven wonders of Rome, the Terme di Caracalla was more than just a place for bathing - it was a hub of social and cultural life in ancient Rome. The bathhouse featured distinct fan-shaped polychrome mosaics made of marble tesserae in jewel-like tones such as pearl white, amethyst, emerald, and gold. Rediscovered and revealed to the world in their full glory after significant restoration in 2015 and 2016, these mosaics serve as the main inspiration for the collection. The word "Calla" itself is derived from the Greek word for "magnificent beauty", making it a fitting title for this new era in Bvlgari's leather goods and accessories.

WHO IS MARY KATRANTZOU?

Known as the queen of prints, Mary Katrantzou is an Athens-born London-based fashion designer specialising in everything textiles; think prints, materials, fabrics, and embroidery. With an interior designer mother and a textile engineer father, it's clear that her passion runs in her blood. She boasts many achievements across the fashion landscape from her numerous ready-to-wear collections appearing on fashion week runways, selling in stores worldwide, and collaborating with big fashion houses - it's no surprise that Bvlgari was keen to appoint her as their new creative director of leather goods and accessories in April 2024.

WHAT MAKES “CALLA” COLLECTION SPECIAL?

Mary Katrantzou's debut collection for Bvlgari is more than just an exploration of Rome's ancient history; it is a celebration of the maison's identity as a Roman High Jeweller with a deep and storied heritage. Through the "Calla" collection, she has managed to weave together the threads of Bvlgari's history with her unique vision. Katrantzou's interpretation of these ancient mosaics is evident in the collection's signature motif, which takes the form of a sensuous, curving fan. This motif not only resonates with the historic mosaics but also connects to symbols like the ginkgo leaf, known for its strength and resilience, and the calla lily, which signifies purity, beauty, union, and rebirth.

WHAT’S INSIDE?

Bvlgari’s Serpenti is the ultimate symbol of the elusive beauty of a snake, which has taken us on a journey of metamorphosis for over 75 years. In this new chapter, the collection features a reimagined take on the iconic "Serpenti Forever" silhouettes with the new "Serpenti Sugarloaf" design - a padded-volume nappa shoulder bag inspired by the rare high-domed variant of Bvlgari's signature cabochon cut. This bag highlights the meticulous attention to detail, with each line of the matelassé precisely engineered by artisans in Bvlgari’s historic leather goods atelier in Florence.

Adding to the collection is the "Serpentine Duo" handbag, a new tote with a trapeze shape reminiscent of the faceted cut of precious gemstones. Its metal handle, adorned with a double Serpenti head on each side, directly references Bvlgari's rich jewellery heritage. The bag comes in two versions: a minimalist leather version for daytime and a dazzling evening version adorned with crystals that are meticulously hand-placed to ensure perfection. This design reflects Bvlgari's unique ability to blend jewellery-making techniques with leather craftsmanship, resulting in a piece that is as much a precious jewel as it is a functional accessory.

Another standout piece in the "Calla" collection is the "Ginkgo" clutch, which captures the essence of the collection's motif in its purest form. Designed to be worn as a bracelet and a clutch, the "Ginkgo" accessory extracts the fan motif from its interlocking pattern, creating a distinct silhouette. Hand-crafted in fine Nappa leather and moulded metal, it’s a testament to the fusion of jewellery making and leather artistry, a hallmark of Bvlgari's design philosophy.

WHAT’S NEXT?

The announcement of Katrantzou's inauguration into the company also marks her bold return to the world of fashion - which we hope, is only the beginning of this exciting partnership. Honouring the brand’s history and enduring legacy, the pieces designed under her creative direction are not only resonant with the Bvlgari’s unmistakable identity, but are destined to become modern classics. And, hopefully, this new chapter will give Mary the motivation to be back on the catwalks with her dreamy ready-to-wear creations that fashion aficionados miss on the London Fashion Week schedule.

Text: Leilani Streshinsky

Courtesy: Bvlgari