A MOVING PALIMPSEST IN THE LOUIS VUITTON FW2025 COLLECTION

In the Louis Vuitton prêt-à-porter FW2025 collection, Nicolas Ghesquière presented an ironic catalog of modern fashion

Let's be clear: this is one of Nicolas Ghesquière's finest collections during his time at LV and a major highlight of the entire season. Light, cheerful, perfectly assembled, and curated, where each look was placed with purpose – this was Ghesquière at the height of his glory and power. The collection’s aim, among other things, was to remind us of what this glory and power entail.

Ghesquière is widely regarded as one of the most brilliant designers when it comes to mastering craftsmanship. Forms, proportions, cut, and silhouette have always been the focus of his attention. Now, Ghesquière has chosen to demonstrate that he can also excel in areas where others shine, ensuring that we don't forget his versatility.

A sheepskin coat, a turban, sneakers, and a small handheld suitcase — this is quintessential Alessandro Michele. The next ensemble — a wide-brimmed fedora, a tank top, and a multi-layered skirt shaped like an inverted trapezoid  – clearly belongs to J. W. Anderson. Both are recognizable, yet presented entirely in black. A vibrant dress with flounces at the bottom and sleeves, paired with a pillbox hat, is unmistakably Demna, as is the following look: a chocolate velour tracksuit with a jacket cinched at the waist, whose elongated lower part immediately recalls Demna's infamous towel skirt. There’s even an outfit—a light blue French jacket, a grey silk scarf, and a long, loose striped shirt with boots — that nods to Signora Prada's beloved nightgowns and pajamas. Yet, all of this is executed with the necessary distance, using those metaphorical quotation marks that distinguish one's own vision from another’s expression, with brilliant skill and elegant irony. When you can manipulate proportions and volume dynamics at such a high level, there’s no need for a towel — you’ve already proven yourself and don’t need to shock anyone further.

Ghesquière appears to create amusing cartoons of all his peers – with great wit, yet without any sarcasm. Ghesquière jokes, but does not ridicule, he demonstrates his talents without competing with anyone. This is an ode to contemporary fashion and its key figures from one of their own.

And, of course, he demonstrates the exceptional strength of his own design skills. Cut and layer – there you have it, but it’s executed in such a way that his signature style is evident in every detail.

Overall, there are no excesses in the entire collection, nothing forced; all the effects are achieved using the techniques he has consistently employed. Ghesquière does everything in his unique style, yet in a manner that makes the fashion of the last ten years apparent.

His script is not constrained by anything — yes, there are still plenty of his favorite 1980s influences, but it feels as though he joyfully gathered everything available from an imaginary fashion archive and blended it together. Now, nothing stands alone; instead everything combines to create delightful new harmonies, which are the primary and the ultimate goal of true fashion. In the prêt-à-porter FW2025 collection, Nicolas Ghesquière pursues this goal while remaining true to himself.

Courtesy: Louis Vuitton

Text: Elena Stafyeva