As the sunny season comes to an end, the bright colours of autumn come alive along with the world of art and fashion. This season, explore these exhibitions in Paris, London and La Coruña in Spain, offering a dynamic range of cultural experiences and mixing the universes of fashion, photography, art, music and design. Yves Saint Laurent’s flowers, Naomi’s most gorgeous outfits, Stephen Jones’ hats, Alaïa’s passion for Kuramata’s furniture, the rare images of Irving Penn and the celebration of the jacket in all of its states - whether you're an avid fashion enthusiast or a curious newcomer, these 7 autumn exhibitions promise to inspire and engage. With galleries and museums unveiling captivating showcases of talent, there's no better time to explore the intersection of art, culture, fashion, and imagination. Here’s a look at some of the must-see exhibitions lighting up the culture world this autumn.
Les Fleurs d’Yves Saint Laurent
From September 20, 2024, through May 4, 2025 guests will be treated to a whimsical exhibition at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. "The Flowers of Yves Saint Laurent," offers a captivating exploration of the legendary designer's floral inspirations. Curated by Olivier Saillard and Gaël Mamine, this exhibition is part of a collaborative effort with the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, marking the first joint exhibition between the two museums. Visitors will be immersed in Saint Laurent's passion for flowers, showcased through over thirty garments and drawings. The exhibition uniquely intertwines fashion with literature, particularly the works of Marcel Proust, and contemporary art by Sam Falls. From Christian Dior's beloved lily of the valley to the iconic YSL logo, the show traces the evolution of Saint Laurent's floral motifs, including the unforgettable life-sized silk gazar flowers worn by Laetitia Casta in 1999. This exhibition promises to be a sensory journey through the blooming inspirations that shaped Yves Saint Laurent's extraordinary career.
NAOMI: In Fashion
Since June, ending on April 6, 2025, the Victoria and Albert (V&A) Museum in London has been showcasing an iconic exhibit for fashion enthusiasts: "NAOMI: In Fashion". This groundbreaking showcase is the first of its kind to celebrate the skill and contribution of an individual model to the fashion industry. Visitors have the opportunity to explore Campbell's extraordinary 40-year career through a curated selection of haute couture and ready-to-wear ensembles from her personal wardrobe, alongside loans from designer archives and pieces from the V&A's own collections. The exhibition not only highlights Campbell's iconic status in the fashion world but also emphasises her role as an activist and advocate for diversity in the industry. From her early days as the first Black model on the cover of French Vogue to her ongoing influence in contemporary culture, the exhibition promises a comprehensive look at Campbell's impact on fashion, society, and representation.
Also if you happen to be in London in September, don’t miss the V&A blockbuster exhibition "Taylor Swift | Songbook Trail", ending soon on September 8. This self-guided tour takes visitors on a journey through the museum's galleries, showcasing 13 stops that represent different eras of Taylor Swift's illustrious career. The trail features iconic costumes, accessories, and memorabilia from Swift's albums and performances. From her country roots to her pop superstardom, the trail offers fans and curious visitors alike an intimate look at the artistry and career of one of the 21st century's most influential musicians.
Irving Penn: Centennial
This autumn, the Marta Ortega Peréz (MOP) Foundation in La Coruña, Spain, will present "Irving Penn: Centennial", the first Spanish retrospective of the world-renowned photographer's work, from November 23, 2024, to May 1, 2025. Originally organised by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, this comprehensive exhibition showcases approximately 175 of Penn's works, spanning his 70-year career from the late 1930s to the early 2000s. The collection includes Penn's iconic celebrity portraits, fashion photography, still lifes, and street scenes, highlighting his meticulous approach, minimalist style, and artistic experimentation. This exhibit, which is the fourth in a series of world-class exhibitions presented by the MOP Foundation, offers a unique opportunity to explore Penn's diverse body of work, from his groundbreaking fashion photography for Vogue to his psychologically penetrating portraits and abstract nudes, cementing his status as one of the 20th century's greatest photographers.
Mode - Nouvelles Générations: 35 ans de l'ANDAM
This season, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris will host an exhibition titled "Fashion - New Generations: 35 Years of ANDAM” from October 1, 2024, to March 30, 2025. The exhibition celebrates the 35th anniversary of ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Développement des Arts de la Mode), showcasing 30 carefully selected fashion silhouettes and accessories donated to the museum by ANDAM prize winners. From Martin Margiela to Ester Manas, and including silhouettes by designers like Jeremy Scott and Marine Serre, the exhibition explores the eclectic nature of contemporary fashion. It highlights themes such as body revelation and deformation, environmental concerns, and reinterpretations of fashion history, reflecting ANDAM's visionary perspective and the aesthetic and technical diversity of the designers it supports.
Stephen Jones, Chapeaux d'Artiste
The Palais Galliera in Paris will be hosting a remarkable exhibition titled "Stephen Jones, Artist's Hats” from October 19, 2024, to March 16, 2025. This showcase is dedicated to the work of Stephen Jones, one of the most renowned contemporary milliners, spanning from his early collections in the 1980s to his most recent creations. For the first time in over forty years at the Palais Galliera, an exhibition is entirely devoted to a single accessory - the hat - elevated to the status of an artwork. The exhibition will feature nearly 400 pieces, including over 170 hats, sketches and images from the milliner's archives, and 40 outfits with matching hats. It explores Jones' creative process, his sources of inspiration, and the significant role Paris has played in his work, highlighting his collaborations with major fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Vivienne Westwood.
Alaïa/Kuramata: la Légèrté en Création
The Azzedine Alaïa Foundation in Paris presents a unique exhibition titled "Azzedine Alaïa Collector: Lightness in Creation - Alaïa/Kuramata", running through January 12, 2025. This exhibition, curated by Carla Sozzani and Olivier Saillard, showcases the work of two master creators: fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa and furniture designer Shiro Kuramata. The show features about 20 pieces of furniture and exceptional objects designed by Kuramata, alongside nearly 20 haute couture creations by Alaïa. The exhibition explores the shared aesthetic sensibilities between these two artists, highlighting their mutual pursuit of lightness, formal subtraction, and abstraction. Visitors can observe how Kuramata's innovative furniture designs, such as the iconic "How High Is The Moon" steel mesh armchair, complement Alaïa's radical tailoring and refined use of transparency in fashion. This unique pairing offers a fresh perspective on the intersections between fashion and furniture design, showcasing the creative vision of two influential 20th-century designers.
La veste dans tous les états
Le Printemps department store in Paris for the first time is hosting an exciting fashion showcase called "La veste dans tous ses états" (The Jacket in all its states) running through October 13, 2024. This pop-up exhibition celebrates the versatility and enduring appeal of the jacket in fashion and retraces the rich social and cultural history of this iconic garment through various themes and eras. The "Vestologie" also puts into spotlight exclusive collaborations, including a partnership with fashion house Courrèges, which created a capsule collection for Le Printemps, available at the dedicated pop-up space in the store's atrium. Additionally, Printemps is teaming up with ESMOD International fashion school, to showcase emerging talent through exhibitions, workshops, and a special award for promising student designers. With its mix of archive pieces, contemporary creations, and educational elements, this pop-up exhibit promises to be a comprehensive exploration of the jacket's significance in fashion and culture. A must-see.
Text: Leilani Streshinsky