Yini Okulandelayo ku-Glenn Martens kanye ne-Y/Project?

Amaqiniso: NgoLwesihlanu olwedlule, umklami uGlenn Martens umemezele ukuthi uyahamba Y / Project, uphawu lapho ayesebenza khona kusukela ngo-2013. Ezinyangeni ezimbalwa ezedlule, umnikazi kanye nomsunguli uGilles Elalouf, washona, eshiya izingxenye zakhe ebhizinisini kumfowabo.

Ngesizini edlule, umkhiqizo ukhansele umbukiso wabo weParis Fashion Week ngomzuzu wokugcina (ngokusemthethweni ukuya "gxila ekutshalweni kwezimali kwangaphakathi"; iqoqo lagcina lidaluliwe ebhukwini lokubuka elihlanganisa abangani nomndeni njengamamodeli), futhi ngeke libonakale nakule nyanga. Iyajoyina Ludovic de Saint Sernin, ophinde wakhipha ikhalenda le-PFW, ngokungalindelekile, kanye nemikhiqizo ehlanganisa Lanvin, Givenchy futhi Tom Ford, abalungiselela abaqondisi babo abasha bezobuciko ngesizini ezayo. Kuzokwenzekani ku-Y/Project, kusazobonakala.

UMartens, ngakolunye uhlangothi, uyaqhubeka nokuhola uhlobo lwe-jeanswear yase-Italy diesel, lapho abe ngumqondisi wokuqamba kusukela ngo-Okthoba 2020, enombukiso eMilan ntambama ngoSepthemba 21st. Kulindeleke futhi ngokugcwele ukuthi athole umsebenzi wokuklama omkhulu, cishe endlini kanokusho, esikhathini esithile esiseduze noma esikude esizayo.

"UMUNTU UYENZA INGUBO, HAYI ENYE INDLELA"

I-Y/Project yethulwa njengelebula yamadoda e-brooding, e-post-goth ngo-2010, ngumklami u-Yohan Serfaty (okungakho i-Y ku-Y/Project).

Ngemuva kokushona kuka-Serfaty kabuhlungu ngo-2013, uMartens wathatha izintambo, esebenzisa izwi lakhe kanye nombono wakhe kancane kancane, futhi wandisa izingubo zabesifazane, okwathi ngokushesha a ingxenye enkulu yebhizinisi. I-Y/Project yasheshe yaba nethonya elikhulu futhi kwezohwebo kuphumelele, nemibukiso yayo yaba phakathi kwezilindelwe kakhulu ekhalendeni leParis Fashion Week. UMartens yanikezwa umklomelo we-ANDAM ngo-2017.

Umklami waseBelgium, odabuka eBruges, wayefunde e-Antwerp's Royal Academy futhi, njengoMartin Margiela ngaphambi kwakhe, wethula umsebenzi wakhe eParis. UJean Paul Gaultier. Wabonisana nemikhiqizo efana Usuku lweviki futhi Boss, futhi wayenolayini owakhe, ongaziwa wawo wonke amasizini angu-3 ngaphambi kokuthatha umsebenzi we-Y/Project.

"Ngicabanga ukuthi kubalulekile ukuthi izingubo zethu ziveze ubuntu kanye nobuntu," kusho uMartens ngoJanuwari 2019, lapho i-Y/Project ikhombisa ePitti eFlorence. “Umqondo uwukuthi umuntu wenza izingubo, hhayi okuphambene nalokho. Empeleni, yonke into yakhelwe ukuthi igqokwe ngamadoda nabesifazane. Futhi bangabheka kokubili amadoda kakhulu futhi abesifazane kakhulu. Asifuni ukwakha ibutho labantu abafanayo.”

“Siyilebula yomqondo,” eqhubeka. “Ngisho nesikibha sethu esilula sinomqondo wokusonteka. Awenzi ama-blazer noma amabhulukwe alula. Izingubo zasemgwaqweni zinendawo emfashinini. Kodwa engingakuqondi amajezi anelogo ebiza ama-euro angu-800. Kimina, lokho akukona ukunethezeka, futhi akukhona lokho engifuna ukukwenza. Ngicabanga ukuthi kufanele uwathathele phezulu amakhasimende akho.”

YINI EPHELA?

Yini elandelayo ngo-Glenn Martens? Okwamanje, usengumqondisi wokudala we-Italian jeanswear brand Diesel, okuyinto ngaphansi kobuholi bakhe ebuye yasebenza futhi, ngemva kweminyaka eminingi efashini lemfashini. Udizayine kabusha izitolo, wavulela umphakathi imibukiso yeMilan Fashion Week ngezinga elingakaze libonwe, futhi usethathe ibhizinisi lephunga elimnandi, elinikezwe ilayisense kwa-L'Oréal, walibeka endleleni entsha, ehlukahlukene.

I-landscape yemfashini ihlelwa kabusha ngokuphelele kulezi zinsuku, futhi nakuba kokubili Tom Ford futhi Givenchyabaklami abasha abaqokiwe ezinsukwini eziyisikhombisa ezedlule, zisekhona izikhala zomsebenzi eziningi, kuma-brand kuhlanganise UDries Van Noten futhi Chanel.

Ingabe uMartens uzoya UMaison Margiela, lapho uJohn Galliano kuthiwa uzohamba khona? I amahemuhemu bayaphikelela. Futhi yebo, uMartens noMargiela bobabili baseBelgium, futhi amagama abo aqala ngezinhlamvu ezintathu ezifanayo. UMaison Margiela uphethwe yi-OTB, okuyiqembu likaRenzo Rosso, futhi ungusomabhizinisi ohola uDiesel. UMartens, njengoMargiela ongaphambi kwakhe, ungumklami we-avant-garde onethonya elikhulu, onombono ongene kwabaningi. Kodwa futhi, umsebenzi ophezulu eMargiela kungaba isipho esinoshevu. UGalliano wenze okwempisi embethe isikhumba semvu, ephushela ifa likaMargiela eceleni ngokuphelele ukuze agxile entweni yakhe, futhi wehlisela uMargiela uphawu (izitishi ezine), izicathulo ze-tabi, namajazi amhlophe elebhu kubasebenzi. Bese kuba noDemna, ophumelele ngokwedlulele, okokuqala nezingubobese kuthi Balenciaga, ngesitayela, nombono, olethe eminye yemibono kaMargiela kwabangu-21st Ikhulu leminyaka. Ukwethula kabusha u-Margiela, esimweni samanje semfashini, kuzoba nzima.

“UMargiela uyindlela yokucabanga,” kusho uMartens kuyo yonke leyo minyaka edlule eFlorence. “Ngiphuma esizukulwaneni esakhula noMargiela, ngakho-ke kujwayelekile ukuthi sibhekise emsebenzini wakhe. Kukhona I Uxhumano, okungasho ukuthi simane sikopishe/sinamathisele lokho akwenzile.”

UMartens ungumklami wezinkanyezi; ngokuqinisekile uphezu komsebenzi wokuphatha uMargiela - kodwa ingabe ufuna ngempela?

Ngenhlonipho: Iwebhusayithi esemthethweni ye-Y/Project 

Umbhalo: Ithimba labahleli