KUTHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / March 13TH 2024

Ngena endlini: Loewe Autumn-Winter 2024 ngu-Jonathan W. Anderson

Ekwindla nobusika bango-2024, u-Jonathan W. Anderson uhlonipha imisebenzi ka-Albert York, ephendula indawo yombukiso ibe yindlu evamile yase-British futhi abungaze isikhathi samanje sokuphila.

I-Loewe iyindlu yamandla esikhumba, ngakho iqoqo lihlanganisa amabhulawuzi e-nappa ane-nappa, i-hoodie enoboya obumpunga namajakhethi e-aviator esikhumba. Iqoqo lifake inguqulo ebuyekeziwe yesikhwama se-Squeeze esithengiswa kakhulu. Idlala futhi inesibindi, i-accessory yehlelo ithole ukuguqulwa kobuciko, okuhlotshiswe ngezinyoni zasezulwini noma inja, ehlotshiswe ngobuhlalu obuncane.

U-Jonathan W. Anderson uthanda ukudlala ngombono wobulili, ngaleyo ndlela kuba nensada yamajakhethi kagwayi amade noma amajazi, amabhulukwe axegayo namaphijama. Ngemuva kwesiteji, waphawula ukuthi iNkosana uHarry ingenye yemithombo yakhe yogqozi, nokuthi kwakufanele agqoke kanjani njalo amakilasi akhe esikole okuhlalwa kuso. Akekho ogqoka ukubukeka okufanayo, noma kunjalo, ngaphandle kwamalungu omndeni wasebukhosini, ngakho-ke kwakuyinselele ukuwenza asebenze esimweni esisha semfashini. Hhayi-ke, ububi bulawulekile, izingcezu zazibukeka ngendlela engenakuvinjelwa uLoewe.

Wonke umuntu uyazi ukuthi u-Jonathan W. Anderson unothando lobuciko. Ngakho kwakungokwemvelo kuye ukuguqula indawo yakhe yombukiso e-Esplanade Saint Louis, egcekeni leChâteau de Vincennes, ibe igalari yobuciko ethuthukisiwe yemidwebo kawoyela eyishumi nesishiyagalombili emincane kodwa eqinile yase-Albert York. Umdwebi waseMelika wayaziwa ngezithombe zakhe ezinobukhulu obulingene zezindawo ezibukeka kahle kanye nezimbali ezisaphilayo (u-Jackie Kennedy Onnasis wayengomunye wabalandeli bakhe abakhulu), futhi, okuxakayo, wumbukiso wakhe wokuqala nobanzi kakhulu e-Continental Europe. U-Anderson uphinde wacaphuna umculi owaziwayo ohlelweni lwakhe, owake waduma wathi: “Siphila epharadesi. Le yinsimu yase-Edene. Ngempela. Ikona. Kungase kube ipharadesi kuphela esiyoke silazi”. Ngakho-ke, kufanele sigubhe ukuphila inqobo nje uma sinelungelo lokuphila, futhi izingubo kufanele zisisize sijabulele ukuba khona, ukuba khona ngaleso sikhathi.

Njengokungathi isimemo sokuvakashela indlu yangasese, umbukiso wawunezinkomba eziningi ezijwayelekile zasekhaya. Amatheyiphu ezimbali nemifino avela egumbini lokudweba laseBrithani lasendulo abe amaphethini ezimpahleni, amahembe noma amabhulukwe. Inja ethandekayo yenza ukubonakala kwayo ngephethini ye-mosaic engutsheni emfishane engu-A-line ebaziwe (ubuhlalu obuncane obuyinkimbinkimbi babuhloselwe ukuphindaphinda i-caviar, i-appetizer eyintandokazi yabacebile). Kwakukhona nokukhohlisa okubonakalayo okunamandla: izingubo ezinamaphethini ezilingisa isikhumba sentshe ezicishe zifane nesikhumba sangempela sangaphandle. Amanye ama-trompe l'oeil ahlanganisa ama-tartan: amasheke ancibilika ngokoqobo ku-chiffon esikiwe ye-mille-feuilles, ezuza okunye okubonakalayo kwe-3D, namakholomu ejazi ayehlotshiswe ngalokho okubukeka njengoboya, kodwa empeleni kwakuyizithombe zokhuni. Nakuba amabhande amakhulu, ngokuvamile asebenza kahle, ayesebenza njengomhlobiso odonsa amehlo ezimpahleni zakusihlwa ezinemicu evusa inkanuko, neziqongo ze-suede. Ngaphezu kwe-accessory elula, kodwa umsebenzi wobuciko.

 

Umbhalo: LIDIA AGEEVA