KUTHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / March 11TH 2024

I-Saint Laurent FW24: ukuthuthukisa ifa

Akungabazeki ukuthi impumelelo enkulu ka-Anthony Vaccarello kube ikhono lakhe lokubona nokuvumelanisa ifa lika-Yves Saint Laurent, kanye nokuhlanganiswa okugculisayo kwama-silhouette amakhulu e-YSL ku-SL yesimanje. Akwenzekanga ngokushesha futhi kwamthatha iminyaka eminingana, kodwa manje, ngesizini entsha ngayinye, ukuthatha kwakhe kubukeka kukholisa ngokwengeziwe kokubili ngokwemiqulu nama-silhouettes, nangokwezinto zokwakha kanye nokuthungwa.

Okokuqala, ake sikhulume ngemiqulu. Lapho eminyakeni embalwa edlule, u-Vaccarello eqala ukubonisa amabhantshi aqondile anamahlombe abanzi futhi aqinile, asuselwa kulawo u-Yves Saint Laurent awenza ekuqaleni kwawo-1980, kwaba ukungenelela kwakhe okuqondile okokuqala efeni lika-Yves - futhi elihlaba umxhwele kakhulu lapho. Kusukela lapho, amahlombe amakhulu avame kakhulu kangangokuthi siwabona ngokoqobo kuwo wonke amaqoqo. Ngesinye isikhathi, i-Vaccarello yaqala ukwehlisa imiqulu, okwakuyisinyathelo esifanele, futhi ku-SL FW24 kwakukhona amabhantshi ambalwa anjalo anamahlombe amakhulu. Sekushiwo lokho, bekunoboya obuningi - njengabo bonke kule sizini - futhi bebugcwele. Cishe yonke imodeli yayinamajazi amakhulu oboya obumpunga - ezandleni zawo noma emahlombe, kodwa ngokuvamile ezandleni zawo - futhi yayivela eqoqweni elidumile le-haute couture PE1971 nejazi layo elifushane elifushane elinoboya obuluhlaza, elathatha ihlombe elikhulu kubagxeki. Emuva lapho.

Manje, ukuthungwa. Uma leli qoqo linendikimba, bekusobala, okuhambisane ngempumelelo nombukiso osanda kuvulwa u-Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Into eyinhloko lapha kwakuyiziketi ezincane ezisobala, uVaccarello ngokuvamile azenza isici sakhe esiyinhloko, futhi kwakukhona nama-bustiers asobala futhi, yiqiniso, amabhulawusi asobala e-YSL aneminsalo. Kodwa konke lokhu obala, mhlawumbe ngenxa yobuningi be-beige nesihlabathi esiyintandokazi ka-Vaccarello okwamanje, okwaba imibala eyinhloko yeqoqo, kubukeka kufana ne-latex BDSM, kanye ne-sci-fi ye-Kubrick. Impela lolu wuhlobo locansi u-Yves Saint Laurent angakaze abe nalo, ngaso sonke isifiso sakhe sokuyenga okunephutha, kodwa okonxiwankulu okwagqanyiswa ikakhulukazi ezithombeni zikaHelmut Newton ezidumile zabesifazane be-YSL bango-1970. Kepha lokhu ukulungisa i-Vaccarello eyenza i-SL isebenze namuhla.

Kule niche efanayo yobuhle beminyaka yawo-1970 ungakwazi ukwengeza amajakhethi ephizi ahlelekile enziwe ngesikhumba esicwebezelayo, agqokwe nje ngemilenze engenalutho. Futhi iziduku eziboshwe emakhanda amamodeli, nezindlebe ezinkulu ngaphansi kwazo - njengoLoulou de La Falaise ngeminyaka yawo-1970, wabanjwa ezithombeni no-Yves kwelinye iklabhu yasebusuku, lapho bobabili, izinkanyezi ezimbili ze-bohemian Paris, besendaweni yabo. oyinhloko.

Eqinisweni, lesi sithombe sobuhle bakudala besiFulentshi kanye ne-French chic ye-Les Trente glorieuses yilokho uVaccarello akuhambisayo manje. Futhi umculi oyinhloko wobuhle baseParis bakudala - kungaba abangani bakhe uCatherine Deneuve, uLoulou de La Falaise, uBetty Catroux, omqamba kanjalo - kwakungu-Yves Saint Laurent ngokwakhe, owabungaza ama-divas anjalo, abesifazane abafayo, nokunye ukubonakaliswa kobufazi bakudala baseParis. . Namuhla, u-Anthony Vaccarello uphumelele ukwenza lesi sithombe esakhe, wasibuyisela ekuphileni kule nguqulo ethuthukisiwe nesimanje impela, evuselela u-Yves Saint Laurent ezithombeni zakhe ezidume kakhulu nezamukeleke kahle kakhulu zamasiko. Hhayi-ke, lokhu, njengoba amaFulentshi angasho, iqoqo le- une très belle, i-très féminine, angahalaliselwa ngayo ngobuqotho - ukwazile ukuguquka kwe-YSL kusukela esikhathini esidlule kuya emthonjeni wamanje.

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva