Abagibeli esiphephweni: Ukuqala kuka-Seán McGirr ka-Alexander McQueen Autumn-Winter 2024

UMcGirr wethule iqoqo lakhe lokuqala esiteshini sesitimela esidala emaphethelweni e-Paris, ngosuku oluna kakhulu lweviki lemfashini laseParis: ngaleyo ndlela, izingubo zokulala eziphuzi eziphuzi/eziluhlaza ezibekwa kuzo zonke izihlalo ukuze izivakashi zifudumale. Kumanothi akhe ombukiso, umklami wase-Ireland uthe ufuna iqoqo lakhe lokuqala libe “Imali enzima. Ukuveza isilwane ngaphakathi”. Ngemuva kwesiteji, uMcGirr wachaza ukuthi njengoba bekuwukuphuma kwakhe okokuqala ku-Alexander McQueen, futhi ezizwa njengomuntu wangaphandle, ubefuna ukugxila emaqoqweni okuqala ka-Lee afana nethi “Banshee” (AW94) “The Birds” (SS95) kusukela ngeminyaka yama-90s, lapho umklami ongasekho wazizwa njengomuntu wangaphandle ngokwakhe. “Engikuthandayo ngayo ukuthi ilula kakhulu, kodwa ithe ukusonteka. Kumayelana nokudala nganoma yini onayo. U-Lee wayethatha izinto zakudala ezifana namabhantshi futhi awasonte futhi awachoboze futhi ebona okwenzekayo ”. Ngakho-ke bekukhona umuzwa we-DIY eqoqweni, namandla entsheni yaseLondon. Yebo, uMcGirr ulapha ukuzonyakazisa izinto, futhi wenza kanjalo! 

U-Seán McGirr uvule iqoqo lakhe ngengubo esontekile ehlotshiswe ngejezi elimnyama elalineni ebhekisela ingubo edumile yefilimu yokunamathisela evela ku-"The Birds", imodeli ibambe izandla zakhe esifubeni. Namuhla kusihlwa, bekumayelana nabalingiswa baseLondon ongakabazi, kodwa ongathanda ukuhlangana nabo. Bese kuba khona imisele yesikhumba nezigqoko zabaseshi, kanye nesilinganiso esihle sereferensi kaMcQueen - cabanga izingubo ezinemibala yezilwane, imibala ye-asidi, izesekeli zama-rose kanye ne-skull motif edumile. Amasilhouette athathwe ngokwedlulele: amaluni amakhulu anamakholola phezulu ngaphezu kwekhanda (sawubona, Martin Margiela!) bekungenye yeqoqo elivelele. Bekukhona namasu angalindelekile e-couture: i-minidress ene-chandelier ephihliziwe kanye nomfekethiso obonisa ibhayisikili obomvu nokuwolintshi, njengokungathi yenziwe ezintweni ezitholwe ngemva kokushayisana kwemoto. Futhi ukubukeka okuthathu kokugcina, izingubo zemoto, ezenziwe ngensimbi, ezinemibala efana neFerrari ephuzi, i-cobalt eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka i-Aston Martin kanye neTesla emnyama. UMcGirr uchaze ngemuva kwesiteji ukuthi uyise ungumakhenikha, kodwa akukhona nje ukudumisa ilungu lomndeni, uhambo oluningi lokuhamba ngendlela yenkumbulo: ebuntwaneni bakhe babehlale bexoxa ngezimoto nokwakheka kwazo ekhaya, futhi yile ndlela ayithola ngayo. ngaphandle udinga ukudala izimo namafomu ukuze aziphilise.

Lapho kamuva kulobu busuku kusihlwa emgubhweni ka-Guido Palau womugqa wakhe omusha wokunakekela izinwele ka-Zara I nginqamula izindlela zomndeni ka-Katy England (i-stylist bekungomunye wabangane abaseduze baka-Lee), bonke babukeka bedidekile. Wonke umuntu oseduze kwethu ubekhuluma ngokuqala kukaMcGirr ethi kuyadumaza kancane. Imibono eminingi kakhulu, kodwa uphi umbono? Ingabe bekungehluka? Kuthiwani uma lezi zicathulo zizinkulu kakhulu ukuba zingene? Nokho, impendulo kaMcGirr ekugxekweni icacile, ucaphuna u-Lee McQueen owayevame ukuthi ngemva kokuhluleka konke: “Kungcono abantu bazonde engikwenzayo kunokuba bangakunaki lokho”. Futhi yilokho okwenza lo mklami afanele indlu ka-Lee McQueen. 

Iqoqo lokuqala lika-Seán McGirr ka-Alexander McQueen, eligcwele izinkomba zefa lomklami omkhulu kanye nesikhathi esedlule somlandeli wakhe, lavusa isivunguvungu sentshisekelo, kokubili okuhle nokubi. Kodwa-ke kuyisiqalo kuphela.Akulula ukugcwalisa izicathulo zomklami omkhulu. Ikakhulukazi uma umuntu okukhulunywa ngaye engu-Lee McQueen omkhulu, odunyiswa abahleli, abathengi, abafundi nezizukulwane zabathandi bemfashini. Futhi ukuza ngemva nje kowayengumqondisi wokudala u-Sarah Burton, isandla sokudla sika-Lee esithandekayo esikhulise ifa lakhe kusukela ashona ngo-2010, akwenzi ukuthatha kube lula. U-Seán McGirr oneminyaka engu-35 ubudala, owazalelwa eDublin, ujoyine le ndlu yodumo ezinyangeni ezimbalwa ezedlule - ngaphambi kokuthi asebenzele u-Jonathan W. Anderson kulebula yakhe ye-namesake njengenhloko yokuklama, kodwa futhi ngokusebenzisana kwakhe nemakethe enkulu yaseJapane. i-Uniqlo enkulu. Unesikhathi ku-Dries Van Noten ku-resume yakhe, futhi. Okuhlaba umxhwele.

Umbhalo: LIDIA AGEEVA