KUTHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / February 27TH 2024

I-Prada FW24: ukwakha isimanje

Into emangalisa kakhulu ngePrada yindlela yonke inkathi eyodwa uMiuccia Prada noRaf Simons bakwazi ngayo ukudala into wonke umuntu aqala ukuyifisa ngaso leso sikhathi, eqala ukugqoka, futhi, okubaluleke kakhulu, iqala ukulingisa, ngoba bayabona ukuthi le yindlela yokwenza imfashini. namuhla. Leli khono lokuhlanganisa ngendlela egxile kakhulu "imfashini yesikhashana" alilokothi liyeke ukusimangaza kanye neqiniso lokuthi bakwenza citius, altius, fortius, isizini nesizini. Njengomphumela walokho, nangaphambi kokuthi kuqale imibukiso yesizini, ungasho ngokuqiniseka okungu-99% ukuthi yiliphi iqoqo elizoba wumgomo wesizini.

Kulokhu, i-duo ibonakala izidlulele yona, idala hhayi nje iqoqo elihle kakhulu lesizini, kodwa elinye lamaqoqo emfashini agqame kakhulu eminyakeni eyi-10 edlule, okungenani, elilodwa elizongena ezincwadini zemfashini. Ihlanganisa konke esikuthandayo nge-Prada kanye nabaqondisi bayo bezobuciko bobabili, okumele kushiwo, manje abacishe bahlangane ngaphandle komthungo enqubweni yabo yokudala ngokubambisana.

Uma uzama ukuhlaziya leli qoqo ukuze uthole izinkomba, lizoqukatha imvunulo yomlando kusukela engxenyeni yokugcina yekhulu le-19-Prada ibiza ngokuthi "i-Victorian" - nama-tournures, ama-culottes, amakholomu amile, izigqoko ezimqhele ophezulu, nemigqa engapheli. yezinkinobho ezincane. Kodwa kukhona futhi neminyaka yawo-1960 ngezingubo zabo eziqondile ezihlanzekile, ama-cardigan amancane aluniwe, nezigqoko ze-flowerbed - futhi konke lokhu nge-twist ethile yaseMilanese, okungekho noyedwa owenza kangcono kuno-signora Prada. Futhi-ke, izingubo zamadoda - amasudi, amahembe, amakepisi aphakeme. Njengenjwayelo, kunezinto zabathengi ezikhiqizwe ngobuningi, iPrada ebilokhu ithanda ukuzifaka emaqoqweni. Yiqiniso, konke lokhu kukhona ndawonye futhi ngesikhathi esisodwa ekubukeni ngakunye. Kodwa lezi zikhombo azichazi lutho nhlobo - iphuzu lonke ukuthi ziphathwa kanjani nokuthi zisetshenziselwa ini.

Emhlabeni wePrada, akukho lutho oluhlala lusendaweni yalo evamile noma olusetshenziselwa injongo yalo evamile, futhi leli qoqo liyi-apotheosis yale ndlela yokudala. Okubukeka njengesudi esemthethweni ngaphambili kubukeka kusikwe ngesikelo ngemuva sibona ulayini kanye nesiketi sangaphansi sikasilika, okungaphambili kuvele akusona neze isiketi, kepha iphinifa elenziwe ngebhulukwe. . Esinye isiketi se-ecru eside senziwe ngohlobo lweshidi lelineni, elineziqalo zothile ezihlotshiswe kuso, futhi ingubo yelineni eneminsalo ihambisana nekepisi eliqoshwe phezulu elinqunywe ngezimpaphe. Futhi ngaphansi kwengubo emnyama eqinile, ecishe ingabonakali kusukela ku-vintage yama-1950, kukhona ama-culottes ahlotshisiwe ayenziwe ngosilika welineni obucayi, ashwabene njengokungathi asanda kukhishwa esifubeni.

Kodwa lokhu akukona nje ukuhlanganiswa kwezinto ezivela emihlabeni yezitayela ezahlukene, iqhinga wonke umuntu alifunda kuPrada kudala. KuMiuccia Prada noRaf Simons, yonke into ingaphansi kombono wabo futhi yonke into ilandela imithetho yokucabanga kwabo. Futhi lo mbono kanye nale micabango inamandla kangangokuthi ifakwe ngokushesha ezingqondweni zethu, futhi ngokushesha siyaqonda ukuthi lokhu kuzoba yimfashini, futhi wonke umuntu uzophuma kulezi zigqoko ze-flowerbed, wonke umuntu uzofaka ama-culottes kasilika, futhi amabhulukwe/iziketi/amaphinifa azoba kuyo yonke imfashini ku-Instagram. Anjalo amandla emfashini e-Pada, futhi anjalo amandla okuhlanganiswa kwayo, okwenza yonke into isebenze njengoba ihlosiwe, futhi isinika isithombe esikholisayo, esesimanje kakhulu, esithinteka kakhulu ngokomzwelo ngathi.

Ubuhle bukaPrada sekuyisikhathi eside bubizwa ngokuthi “i-ugly chic,” kodwa uNkz Prada ngokwakhe ukhulume ngakho ngokunembe kakhudlwana engxoxweni yakhe yakamuva neVogue US: “Ukuba nombono womuntu wesifazane njengesilhouette esihle — cha! Ngizama ukuhlonipha abantu besifazane - ngivame ukungenzi izingubo ezichemile, eziheha kakhulu. Ngizama ukwenza ubuciko ngendlela engagqokwa, engaba wusizo.” Nokho, iPrada iphumelele kakhulu kulokho.

Umbhalo ka-Elena Stafyeva