KUTHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / May 6TH 2024

I-Louis Vuitton yangaphambi kwekwindla ka-2024: Isesha umumo nesilhouette

U-Nicolas Ghesquière ubonise iqoqo langaphambi kwekwindla ka-2024 e-Shanghai e-Long Museum West Bund futhi, ngokumangalisayo, kwaba i-défilé yokuqala e-China eminyakeni yakhe eyi-10 ese-Louis Vuitton. Mhlawumbe kwakuwusuku lokukhumbula indlu eyamshukumisela ukuba enze lokhu, kanye nokuphinde avakashele umsebenzi wakhe. Ngoba yilokho kanye okwenziwe eqoqweni lakhe lakamuva - futhi kwenziwa ngendlela ekhiqiza kakhulu.

Okokuqala, kufanele kuqashelwe ukuthi u-Nicolas Ghesquière wasondela ekugubheni iminyaka eyishumi e-Louis Vuitton ngendlela enhle kakhulu, mhlawumbe ehamba phambili eminyakeni emihlanu edlule. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kulokhu uGhesquier wayesebenza nomdwebi osemusha waseShayina waseShanghai, uSun Yitian, izilwane zakhe ezinjengopopayi - ingwe, ipenguin, unogwaja ophinki ono-LV fleur de lys emehlweni akhe - hlola umqondo othi "Made in China" ukukhiqizwa ngobuningi. Lezi zithombe sezivele ziyabonakala, futhi, yiqiniso, amajazi emoto ye-A-line, izingubo zokushintsha, neziketi ezincane, kanye nezikhwama nezicathulo ezihlotshiswe ngazo, kuzoba yizinto ezivelele kakhulu zeqoqo - futhi iphuzu eliyinhloko lombango phakathi kokubili abaqoqi bemfashini nabathandi bemfashini bebonke. Futhi lokhu kungenye indlela entsha eya ku-Yayoi Kusama, okusobala ukuthi unamandla amakhulu kakhulu okuhweba, kodwa izinga lokukalwa kwayo, ngawo wonke umqondo wegama, selifinyelele imingcele yalo yomlando. Futhi-ke, kungaba kuhle, ngaphezu kwezilwane ezikhathuni ezinhle, ukubona okuthile okungokomfanekiso nokumangalisayo okuvela emsebenzini ka-Sun Yitian, njengenhloko kaMedusa noma inhloko kaKen eyethulwa embukisweni wakhe eParis ekugcineni. ukuwa.

 

Kodwa into eyinhloko, njengenjwayelo nge-Ghesquiere, yenzeka ngaphandle kwendawo yokuhlobisa, kodwa endaweni yokuma - okungukuthi, lapho izilwane ezinjengama-cartoon ziphela khona kanye nezingubo ezakhiwe ngokuyinkimbinkimbi, iziketi ze-asymmetrical, neziketi ezibonakala ziklebhukile emisileni. eneziqongo eziqondile ezinde ezingenamikhono ezivaliwe ngaphansi komphimbo (kwakuneziketi eziningi ezihlukene lapha ngokujwayelekile), amabhulukwe afana nento ephakathi kwama-bloomers namabhulukwe e-sarouel, kanye nezikhindi ezinde ezifekethisiwe ze-bermuda ziqala. Futhi phakathi kwakho konke lokhu, ezinye izingcezu ngisho nokubukeka okuphelele kwakukhanya lapha nalaphaya, kwaveza umuzwa ofudumele wokuqashelwa: ijakhethi lesikhumba le-aviator elinekhola yoboya, iGhesquière eyenza i-hit ekuqaleni kwe-Balenciaga, inhlanganisela yesitshalo esiyisikwele esiyisicaba. phezulu nesiketi esi-asymmetrical esivela eqoqweni lakhe le-Balenciaga SS2013, iqoqo lakhe lokugcina le-Balenciaga. Kulokhu, bekunokuningi okukhumbulayo okwenzeka esikhathini esidlule sika-Balenciaga esikhazimulayo kunangaphambili - futhi lokhu kwenza izinhliziyo zabalandeli bakhe besikhathi eside zagubha ngokumangazayo.

Kodwa i-nostalgia ayikaze ibe amandla aqhuba umklamo we-Ghesquière. Ngokuphambene nalokho, bekulokhu kuyikusasa, kubheke phambili, hhayi emuva ekufuneni amafomu amasha. Futhi uma ubona uchungechunge lwezingubo zesikhumba eziyisikwele ezisindayo ezinezinsimbi eziyinkimbinkimbi namaphakethe noma uchungechunge lokugcina lwezingubo ze-tulip-skirt, uyabona ukuthi uGhesquiere waqala lonke lolu cwaningo lwamahithi akhe amakhulu phakathi neminyaka yonke namaqoqo hhayi ngenxa yezizathu ezizwakalayo, kodwa. njengokusesha izindlela eziya esikhathini esizayo. Futhi usendleleni vele - izifundo zakhe zokwakheka kanye ne-silhouette kanye nokulungiswa kabusha kwemibhalo yakhe yomlando kuphela kuqinisekisa lokhu.

Umthombo: Louis Vuitton

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva