KUTHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / March 2TH 2024

I-Gucci FW24: ukunqoba kwama-cliches

Iqoqo le-FW24 libe elesithathu jikelele kanye nelesibili elilungele ukugqokwa elaklanywa ngu-Sabato De Sarno, ngakho-ke sinokwanele ukuphetha ngokuthi i-Gucci entsha izitholele yona. Impendulo ithi, cha, ayikaze - futhi lokhu sekuvele kusobala ngokuphelele. Kuphinde kucace ngokuphelele ukuthi uma kukhona okufanele kuxoxwe ngakho mayelana neqoqo elisha, yizizathu zalokhu kungenzi kahle kokudala.

Masibhekane nakho - akukho lutho olungalungile ikakhulukazi kulokho uDe Sarno akwenzayo. Iqoqo lenziwe ngobungcweti futhi line-spunk ethile - lingaba lilungele uhlobo oluthile lwentengiso olungenzi sengathi luyakha imfashini. Ukube uDe Sarno wajoyina iGucci ngemva kukaFrida Giannini, konke lokhu bekuyoba kuhle, kodwa wathatha isikhundla sika-Alessandro Michele, owahola uguquko lwezemfashini, wabumba imfashini yesimanje ezigabeni esezivamile manje, futhi waguqula iGucci yaba iphambili yale nguquko. Ngakho-ke uDe Sarno wafika eGucci endaweni ephakeme emlandweni wayo - yebo, hhayi endaweni ephakeme kakhulu, kodwa esesesimweni esiqinile, futhi leyo kwakuyinselelo ahluleka ngayo.

Yini esiyibone emgwaqeni wezindiza kulokhu? Ama-Micro-ovaloli amancane nezikhindi ezincane, amajakhethi kaphizi agqamile, amajazi, noma ama-cardigans, agqokwa ngaphandle kwangaphansi - konke lokhu kungaba ngamabhuzu aphakeme noma ngamapulatifomu amakhulu (okusobala ukuthi u-de Sarno, wanquma ukuzenzela ucezu lwesiginesha). Into encane enamajazi amakhulu amade asindayo kanye nemisele, izingubo zokushelela, ezineleyisi noma ezingenawo, ezinomkeko noma ongenawo, kodwa namanje namabhuzu aphakeme afanayo. Izingubo zokugqoka kanye namajazi asikwe ngokuthile okufana ne-tinsel yesihlahla sikaKhisimusi esicwebezelayo noma ama-sequin acwebezelayo - futhi le ndwangu ecwebezelayo elengayo, kubonakala sengathi, iwukuphela kwento entsha yomqondisi wezobuciko omusha. Yonke enye into kuleli qoqo izwakale ifiphele ngokuphelele neyangaphambilini - futhi ebaluleke kakhulu ngamanye amaningi enziwe abanye abantu.

Futhi futhi, sesiyibonile le tinsel kaKhisimusi ecwebezelayo kaningi kakade emaqoqweni e-Dries van Noten - futhi kumajazi afanayo amakhulu, amade. Siwabonile la mabhuzu aphakeme, ngisho namaphenti/izikhindi ezincane nama-cardigan afanayo eqoqweni le-Prada FW09 elidumile, futhi lezi zingubo ezishelelayo ezineleyisi ehlukile zivela ngokuqondile emaqoqweni kaPhoebe Filo we-Celine SS2016. Futhi lokho bekuyoba kuhle uma u-Sabato de Sarno ebeka zonke lezi zikhombo ngaphakathi komqondo othile wangempela, azicubungule ngombono wakhe, futhi azishumeke kowakhe ubuhle. Kodwa ngisho noma enamakhono athile, lapho umsebenzi wakhe usekelwe ngokucacile, akanawo umbono futhi akanalo umqondo weGucci njengomkhiqizo wemfashini osezingeni eliphezulu.

Ngakho, yini esinayo lapha? Kukhona iqoqo lama-cliches emfashini, ngaphakathi lapho ungathola khona wonke amathrendi amanje, ahlangene futhi ahlelwe ngobunono. Kukhona ukubukeka okucashile okubukeka njengomzamo wokuqeda uMichele nokuvuselela iFord. Kunephalethi yombala esungulwe futhi ebabazekayo enombala ogcwele obomvu, oluhlaza okotshani, we-terracotta, namakhowe. Sekukonke, kukhona iqoqo lezentengiselwano elijulile kodwa elihlanganiswe kahle, lapho ngokungangabazeki i-Gucci ibeka amathemba amahle okuhweba - ngokungangabazeki, asemthethweni. Nokho, akukho lutho kuleli qoqo oluchaza imfashini, olusinikeza umbono ngathi ezweni lanamuhla, oluthwebula imiqondo yethu, futhi lenze izinhliziyo zethu zeqe. Futhi-ke, mhlawumbe isifiso sikaGucci asinwebeki kude kangako—noma okungenani akwenzeki okwamanje. Mhlawumbe ukudunyiswa kwesitayela ngaphezu kwento ethile kuzoba imfashini entsha - kodwa uma lokho kwenzeka, sizothemba ukuthi ngeke kuthathe isikhathi eside.

 

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva