I-Celine Menswear Autumn-Winter 2024/25: I-Fantastic Symphony ka-Hedi Slimane

Ngasekuqaleni kwaleli sonto, u-Celine ushiye iqoqo lakhe lesizini ezayo yasebusika, u-Hedi Slimane waphinda waqoka ividiyo ku-YouTube kunemidlalo yangempela ye-Paris Fashion Week futhi eculwa ngomculo wakudala esikhundleni se-neo-rock evamile yomklami.

Umculo okukhulunywa ngawo? U-Hector Berlioz ka-Symphonie Fantastique, okuthe, ngokomnyango we-PR ka-Celine, uSlimane waqala ukukuthola lapho esanda kuba neminyaka engu-11.

Umqambi, owabhala lesi siqeshana ngo-1830 eneminyaka engu-26 - ngethemba lokuthi sizomsiza ukuba ayenge umlingisi waseBrithani - wachaza ngokuthi 'ukwakhiwa kwezinsimbi okukhulu kohlobo olusha.'

Ngemva kokucula okokuqala ngqa komphakathi, abagxeki bamangazwa isimanjemanje somculo, omunye umbuyekezi evusa “inqaba ecishe ingakholeki umuntu angake ayicabange”. Futhi ngo-1969, umbhidisi u-Leonard Bernstein wachaza i-Symphonie Fantastique “njenge-symphony yokuqala ye-psychedelic emlandweni, incazelo yomculo yokuqala eyake yenziwa ohambweni, eyabhalwa iminyaka eyikhulu namashumi amathathu eyinqaba ngaphambi kwamaBeatles.”

Kukhona ukuvuma ngekhanda okuncane kuphela kwe-psychedelia kuvidiyo entsha ka-Slimane, nakuba amamodeli ambalwa afana kancane nesihlabani somculo we-rock sase-California ngasekupheleni kwawo-1960 u-Don Van Vliet, owaziwa ngoCaptain Beefheart, owayevame ukuthwebula izithombe ngesikhathi sakhe sokuqhakaza egqoke isigqoko se-stovepipe.

Futhi ezinye izigcawu zaqoshwa engqungqutheleni ye-Troubadour Club eNtshonalanga Hollywood, okwathi phakathi nomlando wayo yaphatha imibukiso yabantu kanye nezinganekwane ze-rock ezithambile ezifana noJackson Browne, ama-Eagles, nama-Byrds, kanye nezithonjana ze-punk nezintsha nama-headbangers okuhlanganisa noMötley. U-Crüe no-Guns'n'Roses, abaqala ukucula lapho.

Ividiyo ivula ngezindiza ezinophephela emhlane ezimnyama eziyisikhombisa, ngayinye inophawu olumhlophe lwe-Celine, endizela phansi ogwadule lwaseMojave. I-jukebox yohlobo lwe-Celine ilenga kwenye yezindiza ezinophephela emhlane futhi ishiywe phakathi nendawo, endaweni yetiyela yomgwaqo omkhulu olahlekile.

Sithola amazwibela angacacile ohlu oluhleliwe ku-jukebox. Kukhona u-Jimmie Hodges no-Shania Twain, u-Johnny Maestro no-Fats Domino, kanye ne-Symphonie Fantastique eshiwo ngenhla, iculo levidiyo.

Umgwaqo onguthelawayeka wasogwadule uphindwe kabili njengendlela yokubuka amamodeli ka-Slimane, egqoke kakhulu emnyama, nakuba amanye amajazi egolide acwazimulayo noma ayisiliva abonakala ekugcineni, njengoba evame ukwenza emaqoqweni e-Celine. Izithombe ze-Catwalk zixutshwe nezithombe zomfana wezinkomo osemusha egibele ihhashi lakhe kanye nodwendwe olunensayo lwama-Cadllac amahlanu amnyama namapuleti elayisensi yakwa-Celine.

U-Symphonie Fantastique ubona ukubuya kohlobo lokuthunga oluthambile uSlimane azakhele kulo umsebenzi wakhe, onomfanekiso ovuma ngekhanda kuwo womabili ama-1960s kanye nekhulu le-19 - amasudi anezinkinobho ezintathu eziqinile, asikiwe, amajazi ama-frock nama-waistcoat afekethisiwe ngesandla, ayigugu. Izindwangu ezihlanganisa usilika, i-cashmere, i-satin kanye noboya be-vicuna, ezakhiwe ngeminsalo ye-pussy, amabhuzu, nezigqoko zomshumayeli ezinompheme obanzi ezingeke zibukeke zingafaneleki ku-Nick Cave noma ku-Neil Young ku-movie ka-Jim Jarmusch, noma u-Johnny Depp ku-Dior isikhangiso samakha.

Kodwa kukho konke, ubuhle buhlala bungu-quintessential Slimane, izingxenye ezilinganayo zonxiwankulu baseParis kanye nesikhumba esingaphansi komhlaba seVelvet.

Ividiyo iphetha ngokuvutha kwe-jukebox, nomculo uthule: ISIPHELO.

Ingabe kufanele sibone i-“Symphonie Fantastique” njengokuvalelisa kuka-Slimane ku-Celine?

Amahemuhemu omklami ukushiya umkhiqizo bekulokhu kuphikelela, kanti i-Chanel ivame ukuqanjwa njengendawo elandelayo okungenzeka ukuthi iya kuyo. Ngokuqondana, noma cha, ngalolo suku okwakhululwa ngalo ividiyo kaCeline, uChanel wakhuluma ngokukhuphuka kwemali engenayo ngo-16%, encoma umqondisi wezobuciko uVirginie Viard - "ivoti lokuthembela" kumklami, ngokusho kuka- I-WWD.

Ngakho, ingabe uzohlala, noma uzohamba?

Umthombo: Celine

Umbhalo: Jesse Brouns