Ngasekupheleni kwesonto eledlule, uCeline ubuke kuqala i-Sintwasahlobo-Ihlobo 20Iqoqo lezingubo zabesilisa ezingu-25, u-Hedi Slimane waphinda waqokela ividiyo ye-YouTube kunombukiso wangempela we-catwalk, futhi waphinda wazwakala ngesikolo sakudala esikhundleni se-indie rock.
Ezinyangeni ezimbalwa ezedlule, ku ividiyo yakhe kule sizini yamanje, u-Slimane uqophe ogwadule lwaseMojave nase-Troubadour Club yodumo eWest Hollywood. Kulokhu, wakhetha a castle, kanye nezindawo zayo eziwuxhaxha, emaphandleni aseNgilandi.
Hamba kahle, abafana bezinkomo abasebasha abagqoke isikhumba esimnyama - futhi sawubona, izinga eliphezulu intsha kwikhilikithi emhlophe amawuli nama-blazers okugwedla.
KUNGANI “EMSHA”?
With "Insizwa Ekhanyayo", u-Slimane wabuyela ezinsukwini zakhe zomfundi e-Ecole du Louvre, lapho ake wabhala khona indaba ngemvelaphi ye-Anglomania, uthando lwesiFulentshi lwesitayela sesiNgisi, olusukela ezinsukwini ze-Versailles. Umklami uxube namaqhawe akhe ambalwa, njengo-Eccentric English dandy uStephen Tennant (1906-1987), owayehlobene nemodeli uStella Tennant.
Emaphepheni ezindaba, uSlimane ufake amazwi acashunwe kumbhali u-Evelyn Waugh Imizimba Emibi: "Awuzwa okuningi ngethemba kulezi zinsuku, akunjalo?... Sebekhohlwe yithemba, bunye ububi obukhulu emhlabeni namuhla. Ukuphelelwa ithemba."
Imizimba Emibi, inoveli yesibili kaWaugh - yanyatheliswa ngo-1930 - i-parody ye-Bright Young Things, iqembu lama-Bohemian, abaholi abasha abavame ukungaqondakali ngokocansi kanye nama-socialites ngo-1920s eLondon, lapho uStephen Tennant ayeyilungu. U-Waugh uzoqhubeka nokubhala I-Brideshead ibuye yavakashelwa, okwathi emashumini eminyaka kamuva, yaguqulwa yaba uchungechunge lwethelevishini olutuswayo nolunethonya.
Uchungechunge lwango-1981 lwagqugquzela ukunyakaza kweNew Romantics kumfashini waseBrithani nomculo we-pop (okubandakanya i-Visage kanye noDuran Duran wakuqala) ngaleso sikhathi futhi kwaholela kumamuvi ahlanganisa Elinye Izwe futhi Maurice, futhi ekugcineni, I-Saltburn.
"Insizwa Ekhanyayo" inezici zazo zonke lezi. Cishe ingelinye lamamuvi e-homoerotic Slimane awenzele uCeline.
KUYINI PHAKATHI EQOQO?
Leli iqoqo eliphezulu, elinokuthunga okwenziwe ngekhanvasi okuqanjwe kusukela ngo-1920s Summer ukheshi kanye noboya, belukwa kabusha uCeline. Amasudi agqokwa nama-waistcoat ku-damask, noma agqitshwe ngesandla ngeminyaka yawo-1920s izimbali zasensimini zesiNgisi. Amajakhethi anqunyiwe nama-blazers okugwedla enziwa nge-cashmere flannel. Amanye amajakhethi okugwedla afaka izingcezu ze-trompe l'oeil couture ezifekethisiwe, enziwe ngezandla kuma-ateliers omkhiqizo. Ezinye izingcezu ziza namapheshi esitayela se-heraldic kulokho uphawu ichaza ngokuthi "isiliva eliphucuziwe ama-cannetiles ukugoqa", ukukhiqizwa kabusha kwezindlela zokufekethisa ezisetshenziswa ku the ekuqaleni Ngekhulu le-20 isiko iyunifomu yezempi. Izicathulo - richelieus, izindela kanye nama-tapered derbies - abhekisela ezindleleni zokugqoka zaseBrithani kusukela esikhathini esifanayo.
Kodwa akuzona zonke izinkomba ezingeyaseBrithani: ngokusho kwamanothi abezindaba, uSlimane wabheka izithombe zomlobi waseMelika u-F. Scott Fitzgerald ngesikhathi evakashele ehhotela i-Eden Roc e-Antibes ngo-1922 ngenkathi eklama amaflaneli e-Cashmere asehlobo amhlophe.
Ividiyo yaqoshwa ngoJuni odlule, eHolham Hall, eNorfolk. Ithrekhi yomsindo yanqanyulwa ku-Les Indes Galntes kaJean-Philippe Rameau, eyabhalwa ngo-1736 kudlalwa i-ballet e-Theatre du Palais-Royal. Ucezu lwalahleka iminyaka engaphezu kwe-150, futhi lwaphinde lwatholakala ngo-1957, lapho lwenziwa eVersailles phambi kweNdlovukazi yaseNgilandi, ohambweni olusemthethweni lwaseFrance.
NAWE UNGAYINJA
"Insizwa Ekhanyayo" futhi yethula iphunga elisha eqoqweni lika-Celine le-haute perfumerie. I-Rebours, enamanothi e-oki moss, umsedari, i-nutmeg, i-coumarin kanye ne-cashmeran, yabelana ngesihloko nenoveli ka-1884 kaJoris-Karl Huysmans - ibhekwa njengobuciko bezincwadi eziwohlokayo.
YINI EPHELA?
Ngakho, ingabe leli qoqo lika-Hedi Slimane lokugcina likaCeline? Amahemuhemu Umklami oshiya umkhiqizo ubelokhu ephikelela cishe unyaka manje, kanti i-Chanel ivame ukuqanjwa njengendawo elandelayo okungenzeka ukuthi iya kuyo. Azikho izimemezelo ezintsha kuze kube manje. U-Slimane, owayeseSaint Laurent, e-Dior, futhi wabuyela e-Saint Laurent ngaphambi kuka-Celine, ubelokhu ethatha isikhathi sakhe, kuhlanganise nekhefu elithile ekwakhiweni kwemfashini, ukuze agxile ezithombeni zakhe. Uma kubhekwa ukugxila kwakhe kumafilimu emfashini kaCeline, ingabe kungaba nefilimu ngokulandelayo?
Umthombo: Celine
Umbhalo: Ithimba labahleli