Yintoni elandelayo kwiGlenn Martens kunye neY/Project?

Iinyani: NgoLwesihlanu ophelileyo, umyili uGlenn Martens ubhengeze ukuba uyahamba Y / Iprojekthi, uphawu apho wayesebenza khona ukususela ngo-2013. Kwiinyanga ezimbalwa ezedlule, umnini kunye nomsunguli we-Gilles Elalouf, wafa, eshiya iinxalenye zakhe kwishishini kumntakwabo.

Kwisizini ephelileyo, uphawu lurhoxise umboniso walo weVeki yeFashoni yaseParis ngomzuzu wokugqibela (ngokusemthethweni ukuya "kugxilwe kutyalo-mali lwangaphakathi"; ingqokelela ekugqibeleni yatyhilwa kwincwadi yokujonga ebonisa abahlobo kunye nosapho njengemizekelo), kwaye ayizukubonisa kule nyanga, nokuba. Idibanisa Ludovic de Saint Sernin, oye wakhupha kwakhona kwikhalenda ye-PFW, ngokungalindelekanga, kunye neempawu kuquka Lanvin, Givenchy kwaye Tom Ford, abalungiselela abalawuli babo abatsha bezobugcisa kwixesha elizayo. Kuya kwenzeka ntoni kwi-Y/Project, kusaza kubonakala.

UMartens, okwangoku, uyaqhubeka ekhokela i-brand ye-jean ye-Italian diesel, apho ebengumlawuli wokuyila ukusukela ngo-Okthobha ka-2020, enomboniso eMilan ngenjikalanga ye-21 kaSeptemba.st. Ukwalindeleke ngokupheleleyo ukuba afumane umsebenzi omkhulu woyilo, onokwenzeka kwindlu yodidi oluphezulu, kwixesha elingekude okanye elikude.

"UMNTU UYENZA IIMPAPA, AYIYINYE INDLELA YOKUJONGA"

I-Y/Project yasungulwa njenge-brooding, ileyibhile yamadoda e-post-goth ngo-2010, ngumyili uYohan Serfaty (kungoko iY kwiY/Project).

Emva kokuba u-Serfaty esweleke kabuhlungu ngo-2013, uMartens wathatha indawo yakhe, ephumeza ilizwi lakhe kunye nombono wakhe, kwaye ekhula kwisinxibo sabasetyhini, esathi kungekudala a inxalenye enkulu yeshishini. I-Y/Project kungekudala ibe nefuthe elikhulu kunye nezorhwebo yimpumelelo, kunye nemiboniso yayo phakathi kwezona zilindelweyo kwikhalenda yeVeki yeFashoni yaseParis. Martens wawongwa ngebhaso le-ANDAM ngo-2017.

Umyili waseBelgium, osuka eBruges, waye wafunda eAntwerp's Royal Academy kwaye, njengoMartin Margiela ngaphambi kwakhe, waqalisa umsebenzi wakhe eParis. UJean Paul Gaultier. Wabonisana ngeempawu ezifana Ngeveki kwaye boss, kwaye wayeneyakhe, umgca ongaziwa kuwo onke amaxesha e-3 ngaphambi kokuthatha umsebenzi we-Y / Project.

"Ndicinga ukuba kubalulekile ukuba iimpahla zethu zivelise ubuntu kunye nobuntu," utshilo uMartens ngoJanuwari ka-2019, xa i-Y / Project yabonisa ePitti eFlorence. “Ingcamango yeyokuba nguloo mntu uzenzayo iimpahla, kungekhona ngokuphambeneyo. Ngokwenyani, yonke into yenzelwe ukuba inxitywe ngamadoda nabasetyhini. Kwaye banokujonga bobabini kakhulu kwaye babhinqa kakhulu. Asifuni ukwenza umkhosi wabantu abafanayo.”

“Siyileyibhile yokuqonda,” uqhube watsho. “Nesona sikipa sethu silula sinengqiqo. Asizenzi iiblazer okanye iibhulukhwe ezilula. Isitalato sinendawo esefashonini. Kodwa into endingayiqondiyo ngamajezi anelogo exabisa i-euro ezingama-800. Kum, asibobunewunewu obo, kwaye asiyiyo le nto ndifuna ukuyenza. Ndicinga ukuba kufuneka ubathathele ingqalelo abathengi bakho.”

YINTONI ELANDELAYO?

Yintoni elandelayo kuGlenn Martens? Okwangoku, usengumlawuli woyilo we-Italian jeanwear brand Diesel, ethe phantsi kobunkokeli bakhe yasebenza kwakhona, emva kweminyaka emininzi kwifashoni. Uye wahlengahlengisa iivenkile, wavula imiboniso yeVeki yeMfashini yaseMilan eluntwini kwinqanaba elingazange libonwe ngaphambili, kwaye uthathe ishishini leziqholo, elinelayisensi e-L'Oréal, ukuya kwicala elitsha, elahlukileyo.

Ubume befashoni buhlengahlengiswa ngokucokisekileyo kule mihla, kwaye nangona zombini Tom Ford kwaye Givenchyabaqulunqi abatsha abachongiweyo kwiintsuku ezisixhenxe zokugqibela, kusekho izithuba ezikhoyo, kwiimpawu ezibandakanya UDries van noten kwaye Chanel.

Ngaba uMartens uya UMaison Margiela, apho kuthiwa uJohn Galliano uyahamba? I iindlebe ziyazingisa. Kwaye ewe, uMartens noMargiela bobabini baseBelgium, kwaye amagama abo aqala ngoonobumba abathathu abafanayo. UMaison Margiela uphantsi kwe-OTB, eliqela likaRenzo Rosso, kwaye ukwangusomashishini osemva kweDiesel. UMartens, njengoMargiela phambi kwakhe, ngumyili we-avant-garde onempembelelo ekhethekileyo, onombono ongene kwindawo eqhelekileyo. Kodwa kwakhona, umsebenzi ophezulu eMargiela unokuba sisipho esinetyhefu. UGalliano uye wasebenza njengengcuka kwiimpahla zegusha, etyhalela ecaleni ngokupheleleyo ilifa likaMargiela ukuba agxininise kwinto yakhe, kunye nokunciphisa uMargiela kwilogo (imithungo emine), izihlangu zetabi, kunye needyasi zelebhu ezimhlophe zabasebenzi. Kwaye kukho uDemna, ophumelele kakhulu, kuqala Iivenkilekwaye ke ngo Balenciaga, ngesimbo, nombono, owazisa ezinye zeengcamango zikaMargiela kwabangama-21st Inkulungwane. Ukuvuselela uMargiela, kwimeko yefashoni yangoku, kuya kuba nzima.

“UMargiela yindlela yokucinga,” watsho uMartens kuyo yonke loo minyaka edlulileyo eFlorence. “Ndiphuma kwisizukulwana esakhula noMargiela, ngoko yinto eqhelekileyo ukuba sibhekisele kumsebenzi wakhe. Kukho i uqhagamshelwano, oku akuthethi ukuba simele sikhuphele/sincamathisele oko akwenzileyo.”

UMartens ngumyili weenkwenkwezi; ngokuqinisekileyo uphezu komsebenzi wokuphatha uMargiela - kodwa ngaba ufuna ngokwenene?

Ngembeko: Y/Iwebhusayithi esemthethweni yeProjekthi 

Umbhalo: Iqela labahleli