ITHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / ngoMatshi 13TH 2024

Inyathelo lokungena endlwini: Loewe Autumn-Winter 2024 nguJonathan W. Anderson

Ekwindla-ebusika 2024, uJonathan W. Anderson uhlawula imbeko kwimisebenzi ka-Albert York, ukuguqula indawo yokubonisa ibe yindlu eqhelekileyo yaseBritani kunye nokubhiyozela umzuzu okhoyo wokuphila.

ILoewe yindlu yamandla enziwe ngesikhumba, ngoko ke ingqokelela ibandakanya iiblukhwe zenappa ezigqunyiweyo, ihoodie enoboya obufukufuku kunye neebhatyi zenqwelomoya zesikhumba. Ingqokelela ibonise inguqulelo ehlaziyiweyo yebhegi yeSqueeze ethengiswa kakhulu. Idlala kwaye inesibindi, i-accessory yehlelo ifumene i-makeover yobugcisa, ehonjiswe ngeentaka zezulu okanye inja, ehonjiswe ngamaso amancinci.

UJonathan W. Anderson uthanda ukudlala ngembono yesini, ngaloo ndlela kukho ubuninzi beebhatyi zokutshaya ezinde ixesha elide okanye iidyasi zomsila, iibhulukhwe ezinxilisayo kunye neepijama. Emva kwesiteji uye waphawula ukuba iNkosana uHarry yayiyenye yemithombo yakhe yokuphefumlela, kunye nendlela ekwakufuneka asoloko enxibe ngayo kwiiklasi zakhe zesikolo. Akukho mntu unxiba imbonakalo efanayo, nangona kunjalo, ngaphandle kwamalungu entsapho yasebukhosini, ngoko bekungumngeni ukwenza ukuba kusebenze kwimeko entsha yefashoni. Ewe, ubugwenxa bulawulekile, amaqhekeza akhangeleka ngokungenakuthintelwa uLoewe.

Wonke umntu uyazi ukuba uJonathan W. Anderson unomdla wobugcisa. Ngoko kwakungokwemvelo ukuba aguqule indawo yakhe yokubonisa e-Esplanade Saint Louis, kwintendelezo yeChâteau de Vincennes, ibe yindawo yobugcisa ephuculweyo yeshumi elinesibhozo lemizobo yeoli emincinci kodwa ebukhali yaseAlbert York. Umzobi waseMelika wayesaziwa ngemifanekiso yakhe ethozamileyo yembonakalo-mhlaba ebukekayo kunye neentyatyambo ezisaphilayo (uJackie Kennedy Onnasis wayengomnye wabalandeli bakhe abakhulu), kwaye, ngokumangalisayo, ngumboniso wakhe wokuqala kunye nowona mkhulu kwi-Continental Europe. UAnderson ukwacaphule igcisa elaziwayo kumanqaku akhe omboniso, owakha wathi: “Siphila kwiparadesi. Lo ngumyezo wase-Eden. Ngokwenene. Yi. Isenokuba kuphela kweparadesi esiya kuze siyazi”. Ke, kufuneka sibubhiyozele ubomi logama nje sinelungelo lokuphila, kwaye iimpahla kufuneka zisincede sibunandiphe ubukho, ukubakho okwangoku.

Ngokungathi isimemo sokutyelela indlu yabucala, lo mboniso wawuneembekiselo ezininzi zekhaya. Iintyatyambo kunye neetapestries zemifuno ezisuka kwigumbi lokuzoba laseBritane zajika zaba ziipateni kwiigawuni, iihempe okanye iibhulukhwe. Inja ethandekayo yenza ukubonakala kwayo kwipatheni ye-mosaic kwi-sculptural A-line ilokhwe emfutshane (amahlalu amancinci amancinci ayenzelwe ukuphindaphinda i-caviar, i-appetizer eyintandokazi yezityebi). Bekukho nemibono enamandla: iilokhwe ezineepateni ezilinganisa ufele lwenciniba oluphantse lufane nolusu lokwenyani. Enye i-trompe l'oeil ibandakanya iitartan: iitshekhi zinyibilika ngokwenyani kwi-mille-feuilles i-chiffon esikiweyo, ifumana ubutyebi obungakumbi be-3D, kunye neekhola zedyasi zazihonjiswe ngento ebonakala ngathi ngoboya, kodwa eneneni yayimizobo yomthi. Ngelixa amabhanti amakhulu, ahlala esebenza, asebenza njengomhombiso otsala amehlo kwiingubo zangokuhlwa kunye nokusikwa kwenyama, kunye nemiphezulu ye-suede. Ngaphezulu kwe-accessory elula, kodwa umsebenzi wobugcisa.

 

Umbhalo: LIDIA AGEEVA