I-Saint Laurent FW24: ukuphucula ilifa

Akukho mathandabuzo okuba eyona mpumelelo iphambili ka-Anthony Vaccarello ibe kukukwazi kwakhe ukubona kunye nokulungelelanisa ilifa likaYves Saint Laurent, kunye nokudityaniswa okuqinisekileyo kweesilhouette eziphambili zeYSL kwiSL yanamhlanje. Akuzange kwenzeke ngokukhawuleza kwaye kumthathe iminyaka emininzi, kodwa ngoku, kunye nexesha elitsha elitsha, ukuthathwa kwakhe kukhangeleka ngakumbi kwaye kukholisa ngakumbi ngokumalunga nemiqulu kunye ne-silhouettes, kunye ngokubhekiselele kwizinto eziphathekayo kunye nokwakheka.

Okokuqala, makhe sithethe ngemiqulu. Xa kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo, uVaccarello waqala wabonisa iibhatyi ezithe tye ezinamagxa abanzi kwaye aqinile, avela kwezo zenziwe nguYves Saint Laurent ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-1980, yayilungenelelo lwakhe lokuqala oluthe ngqo kwilifa likaYves - kwaye linomdla kakhulu. Ukusukela ngoko, amagxa amakhulu aqhelekile kangangokuba siwabona ngokoqobo kwingqokelela nganye. Ngexesha elithile, iVaccarello yaqala ukunciphisa imiqulu, eyayiyintshukumo efanelekileyo, kwaye kwi-SL FW24 kwakukho iibhatyi ezinjalo ezimbalwa ezinamagxa amakhulu. Oko kwathiwa, bekukho uboya obuninzi - njengangoku ngokubanzi ngeli xesha lonyaka-kwaye bebubuninzi. Phantse yonke imodeli yayineedyasi ezinkulu zoboya obuguquguqukayo - ezandleni zabo okanye emagxeni abo, kodwa rhoqo ezandleni zabo - kwaye babevela kwingqokelela eyaziwayo ye-haute couture PE1971 kunye nedyasi yayo emfutshane yoboya obuluhlaza, eyathatha isibetho esinzulu kubagxeki. buya ngoko.

Ngoku, imizobo. Ukuba le ngqokelela yayinomxholo, yayiselubala, ehambelana ngempumelelo nomboniso osanda kuvulwa uYves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Eyona nto iphambili apha yayiyimibhinqo emxinwa ecacileyo, leyo uVaccarello ngokubanzi wenza eyona nto yakhe iphambili, kwaye bekukho neebhulukhwe ezicacileyo kwaye, ewe, iibhulawuzi ezicacileyo zeYSL ezinezaphetha. Kodwa konke oku kungafihli, mhlawumbi ngenxa yobuninzi be-Vaccarello ethandwayo ngoku i-beige kunye nesanti, eyaba yimibala ephambili yokuqokelela, ibonakala ifana ne-latex BDSM, kunye ne-sci-fi kaKubrick. Oku, ewe, luhlobo lwesini uYves Saint Laurent angazange abenalo, nawo wonke umnqweno wakhe wokuhenda kancinane, kodwa ubuqhophololo obakwagxininiswa ngakumbi kwiifoto ezidumileyo zikaHelmut Newton zabafazi beYSL ngeminyaka yoo-1970. Kodwa olu luhlengahlengiso apho iVaccarello yenza ukuba iSL isebenze namhlanje.

Kule niche yobuhle beminyaka yee-1970 unokongeza iibhatyi ezicwangcisiweyo ze-ertyisi ezenziwe ngesikhumba esimenyezelayo, ezinxitywa ngokulula ngemilenze engenanto. Kwaye ii-headscarves ziboshwe kwiintloko zeemodeli, kunye neendlebe ezinkulu eziphantsi kwazo - njengoLoulou de La Falaise ngeminyaka yee-1970, zibanjwe kwiifoto kunye noYves kwenye i-nightclub, xa bobabini, iinkwenkwezi ezimbini ze-bohemian Paris, babekwindawo yabo. inkulu.

Ngapha koko, lo mfanekiso wobuhle bakudala baseFrentshi kunye ne-chic yesiFrentshi ye-Les Trente glorieuses yinto eyenziwa nguVaccarello ngoku. Kwaye oyena mdlali uphambili wobuhle beParisian yakudala - nokuba ngabahlobo bakhe uCatherine Deneuve, uLoulou de La Falaise, uBetty Catroux, oyibiza ngokuba ngu-Yves Saint Laurent ngokwakhe, owayebhiyozela i-divas enjalo, i-femmes fatale, kunye nokunye ukubonakaliswa kobufazi baseParis. . Namhlanje, u-Anthony Vaccarello uye wawenza ngempumelelo lo mfanekiso, ewubuyisela ebomini kolu guqulelo oluphuculweyo nolwangoku, ukuvuselela uYves Saint Laurent kweyona mifanekiso yakhe idumileyo neyamkelwa kakuhle yimifanekiso yenkcubeko eyaziwayo. Ewe, oku, njengoko amaFrentshi anokuthi, une très belle ingqokelela, i-très féminine, anokuthi avuyisane nayo ngokunyanisekileyo - ulawule inguqu ye-YSL ukusuka kwixesha elidlulileyo ukuya kwiqula langoku.

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva