Abakhweli kwisaqhwithi: Ukuqala kukaSeán McGirr ka-Alexander McQueen Autumn-Winter 2024

UMcGirr ubonise ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala kwisikhululo sikaloliwe esidala esingaphandle kweParis, ngeyona mini inemvula kakhulu kwiveki yefashoni yaseParis: ke, iingubo eziluhlaza ezityheli/eziluhlaza zibekwe kwisitulo ngasinye ukuze iindwendwe zifudumale. Kumanqaku akhe omboniso, umyili waseIreland wathi ufuna ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala ibe “kukutyeba. Ukutyhila isilwanyana ngaphakathi”. Ngasemva kwesiteji, uMcGirr uchaze ukuba njengoko yayiluhambo lwakhe lokuqala ku-Alexander McQueen, kwaye uziva njengomntu wangaphandle, wayefuna ukugxila kwiingqokelela zikaLee zokuqala ezifana ne "Banshee" (AW94) "Iintaka" (SS95) ukusuka kwi-90s, xa umyili ongasekhoyo waziva njengomntu wangaphandle ngokwakhe. “Into endiyithandayo ngayo kukuba ilula kakhulu, kodwa ijijekile kancinane. Kumalunga nokudala ngayo nantoni na onayo. U-Lee wayethatha izinto zakudala ezifana neebhatyi kwaye azijije kwaye azityumze kwaye abone ukuba kwenzekani ". Ngoko ngokuqinisekileyo kwakukho imvakalelo ye-DIY kwingqokelela, kunye namandla olutsha lwaseLondon. Ewe, uMcGirr ulapha ukuza kushukumisa izinto, kwaye wenjenjalo! 

USeán McGirr wavula ingqokelela yakhe ngengubo ejijekileyo ejijekileyo kwijezi emnyama elaminethiweyo ebhekisa kwilokhwe edumileyo yefilimu ethi "IiNyoni", imodeli yabamba izandla zakhe esifubeni. Ngokuhlwanje, ibimalunga nabalinganiswa baseLondon ongabaziyo okwangoku, kodwa ungathanda ukudibana. Ke, bekukho imisele yesikhumba kunye neminqwazi yabacuphi, kunye nedosi elungileyo yeereferensi zikaMcQueen-cinga iigawuni ezineprinta zezilwanyana, imibala yeasidi, izixhobo ezirozi kunye neyodumo lokhakhayi motif. I-silhouettes zithathwe ngokugqithiseleyo: iintambo ezinkulu ze-chunky ezinekhola phezulu phezulu kwentloko (molo, uMartin Margiela!) yayiyenye yeembalasane zengqokelela. Kwakukho neendlela ezingalindelekanga ze-couture: i-minidress ene-chandelier ephukile kunye ne-embroidery ebonisa ibhayisikili ebomvu ne-orenji, ngokungathi yenziwe kwizinto ezifunyenwe emva kwengozi yemoto. Kwaye ezintathu zokugqibela zibukeka, iingubo zemoto, ezenziwe ngentsimbi, ezinemibala efana neFerrari ephuzi, i-cobalt blue Aston Martin kunye neTesla emnyama. UMcGirr uchaze ngasemva ukuba utata wakhe ngumkhandi, kodwa ayisiyombeko nje kwilungu losapho, ngakumbi kuhambo lokuhla kwindlela yenkumbulo: ebuntwaneni bakhe babehlala bexoxa ngeemoto kunye noyilo lwabo ekhaya, kwaye yile ndlela awayifumana ngayo. ngaphandle kufuneka enze iimilo kunye neefom ukuze aphile.

Xa kamva ngolu rhatya kumbhiyozo kaGuido Palau womgca wakhe omtsha wokhathalelo lweenwele kaZara ndawela iindlela kunye nosapho lukaKaty eNgilani (i-stylist yayingomnye wabahlobo abasondeleyo bakaLee), bonke babonakala bedidekile. Wonke umntu osijikelezileyo wayethetha ngokuqala kukaMcGirr esithi iyadanisa. Iingcamango ezininzi kakhulu, kodwa uphi umbono? Ngaba yayiya kwahluka? Kuthekani ukuba ezi zihlangu zinkulu kakhulu ukuba zingalingana? Ewe, impendulo kaMcGirr ekugxekweni icace gca, ucaphula u-Lee McQueen owayedla ngokuthi emva kokusilela konke: “Kungcono abantu bayithiye into endiyenzayo kunokuba bangayikhathazi ngayo”. Yiloo nto ke eyenza lo myili uthile alungele indlu kaLee McQueen. 

Ingqokelela yokuqala kaSeán McGirr ka-Alexander McQueen, ezaliswe ziimbekiselo kwilifa lomyili omkhulu kunye nexesha eladlulayo leendlalifa zakhe, yavusa isaqhwithi somdla, kokubini okulungileyo nokubi. Kodwa ke sisiqalo kuphela.Akulula ukuzalisa izihlangu zomyili omkhulu. Ngokukodwa ukuba umntu ekuthethwa ngaye nguLee McQueen omkhulu, odunyiswa ngabahleli, abathengi, abafundi kunye nezizukulwana zabathandi befashoni. Kwaye ukuza kanye emva kokuba owayesakuba ngumlawuli woyilo uSarah Burton, isandla sasekunene sika-Lee esikhulise ilifa lakhe okoko waswelekayo ngo-2010, ayenzi kube lula ukuthatha. Uneminyaka engama-35 ubudala, uSeán McGirr oneminyaka engama-XNUMX ubudala, wajoyina indlu ye-iconic kwiinyanga nje ezimbalwa ezidlulileyo - ngaphambi kokuba asebenzele uJonathan W. Anderson kwileyibhile yakhe yegama njengentloko yoyilo, kodwa nakwintsebenziswano yakhe kunye nemarike enkulu yaseJapan. i-Uniqlo enkulu. Une-stint e-Dries Van Noten kwi-resume yakhe, ngokunjalo. Iyachukumisa.

Umbhalo: LIDIA AGEEVA