ITHUWE YI-HDFASHION / ngoMeyi 6TH 2024

ULouis Vuitton ngaphambi kokuwa kwe-2024: Ukukhangela imilo kunye ne-silhouette

UNicolas Ghesquière ubonise ingqokelela yangaphambi kokuwa kwe-2024 eShanghai kwiLong Museum yaseWest Bund kwaye, ngokumangalisayo, yayiyi-défilé yokuqala eChina kwiminyaka yakhe eyi-10 eLouis Vuitton. Mhlawumbi yayiseso sikhumbuzo kanye sendlu eyamkhuthaza ukuba enze oku, kunye nokuphinda ajonge umsebenzi wakhe. Kuba yiloo nto kanye eyenziweyo kwingqokelela yakhe yamva nje- kwaye yenziwe ngeyona ndlela inemveliso.

Okokuqala, kufuneka kuqatshelwe ukuba uNicolas Ghesquière wasondela kwiminyaka yakhe yeshumi eLouis Vuitton ngendlela egqwesileyo, mhlawumbi eyona minyaka mihlanu idlulileyo. Ukongeza, ngeli xesha uGhesquier wayesebenza nomzobi oselula waseTshayina waseShanghai, uSun Yitian, onezilwanyana ezifana nekhathuni - ingwe, i-penguin, i-pink bunny ene-LV fleur de lys emehlweni akhe - hlola ingcamango ethi "Yenziwe eTshayina" imveliso enkulu. Le mifanekiso sele isaziwa, kwaye, ewe, iidyasi zemoto ze-A-line, iilokhwe zokutshintsha, kunye neziketi ezincinci, kunye neengxowa kunye nezihlangu ezihonjiswe ngazo, ziya kuba zezona zinto ziphambili kwingqokelela - kwaye ingongoma ephambili yokuxabana phakathi kwabaqokeleli befashoni kunye nabathandi befashoni ngokubanzi. Kwaye le yindlela entsha eya ku-Yayoi Kusama, ngokucacileyo unamandla amakhulu orhwebo, kodwa iqondo lokunyuka kwayo, kuyo yonke ingqiqo yegama, sele ifikelele kwimida yayo yembali. Kwaye, ngokuqinisekileyo, kuya kuba kuhle, ukongeza kwizilwanyana ezithandekayo zekhathuni, ukubona into ethile engumfuziselo kunye nemangalisayo evela kumsebenzi we-Sun Yitian, njengentloko yeMedusa okanye intloko kaKen eyathi yaboniswa kumboniso wakhe eParis ekugqibeleni. ukuwa.

 

Kodwa eyona nto iphambili, njengesiqhelo kunye neGhesquiere, yenzeka ngaphandle kwendawo yokuhlobisa, kodwa kwindawo yokuma - oko kukuthi, apho izilwanyana ezinje ngekhathuni ziphela kunye neelokhwe ezakhiwe ngokuntsonkothileyo, iziketi ze-asymmetrical, kunye neengubo ezibonakala ngathi zikrazulwe emisileni. kunye nemiphezulu emide ethe tye engenamikhono emide evaliweyo phantsi komqala (kwakukho iziketi ezininzi ezahlukeneyo apha ngokubanzi), ibhulukhwe ebonakala ngathi yinto ephakathi kwebloomers kunye neebhulukhwe zesarouel, kunye neebhulukhwe ezihonjisiweyo zebermuda ziqala. Kwaye phakathi kwayo yonke le nto, ezinye iziqwenga kunye nenkangeleko epheleleyo yadanyaza apha naphaya, ivelisa imvakalelo efudumeleyo yokwamkelwa: ibhatyi ye-aviator yesikhumba enekhola yoboya, leyo uGhesquière wabetha ngayo kwi-aughts yokuqala yaseBalenciaga, indibaniselwano yesityalo esisikweri esithe tyaba. phezulu kunye ne-asymmetrical skirt evela kwingqokelela yakhe ye-Balenciaga SS2013, ingqokelela yakhe yokugqibela ye-Balenciaga. Ngeli xesha, bekukho oko kubuyela emva kwexesha elizukileyo lika-Balenciaga kunangaphambili-kwaye oku kwenza iintliziyo zabalandeli bakhe bexesha elide zagubha ngokurhabaxa.

Kodwa i-nostalgia ayizange ibe yimpembelelo emva koyilo lweGhesquière. Ngokuchasene noko, ibisoloko iyinto ezayo, ijonge phambili, ingabuyi emva ekukhangeleni iifom ezintsha. Kwaye xa ubona uthotho lweevests zesikhumba esisikweri ezinobunzima obubambekayo kunye neepokotho okanye uluhlu lokugqibela lweelokhwe ze-tulip-skirt, uyaqonda ukuba iGhesquiere iluqale lonke olu phicotho lweengoma zakhe eziphambili kuyo yonke iminyaka kunye nokuqokelelwa hayi ngenxa yezizathu ezivakalayo, kodwa. njengokukhangela iindlela eziya kwixesha elizayo. Kwaye usendleleni sele esendleleni - izifundo zakhe zemilo kunye ne-silhouette kunye nokulungiswa kweendawo zakhe zokugcina ziqinisekisa kuphela oku.

Ngoncedo: Louis Vuitton

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva