ITHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / ngoMatshi 2TH 2024

I-Gucci FW24: uloyiso lwee-cliches

Ingqokelela ye-FW24 yaba yeyesithathu jikelele kunye neyesibini esele ilungele ukunxiba eyenzelwe nguSabato De Sarno, ngoko ke sinokwaneleyo ukugqiba ukuba ingaba iGucci entsha iye yangena yodwa. Impendulo ithi, hayi, ayikhange - kwaye oku sele kucacile ngokupheleleyo. Kukwacace gca ukuba kukho nantoni na ekufuneka ixoxwe ngokunxulumene nengqokelela entsha, zizizathu zolu buchule bokudala.

Masijongane nayo - akukho nto iphosakeleyo ngakumbi kwinto eyenziwa nguDe Sarno. Ingqokelela yenziwe ngobuchwephesha kwaye ide ibe ne-spunk-iya kuba yinto efanelekileyo kuhlobo oluthile lwentengiso olungenzi ngathi luqulunqa ifashoni. Ukuba uDe Sarno wajoyina uGucci emva kukaFrida Giannini, konke oku kuya kuba kulungile, kodwa wathatha indawo ka-Alessandro Michele, owayekhokele inguqu yefashoni, wabumba ifashoni yala maxesha kwiindidi eziye zaxhaphaka ngoku, kwaye wajika iGucci yaba yiflegi yolu revolution. Ngaloo ndlela uDe Sarno weza eGucci kwindawo ephakamileyo kwimbali yakhe - ewe, kungekhona encotsheni, kodwa usekwindawo eyomeleleyo, kwaye yayingumngeni lowo wasilelayo.

Sibone ntoni kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya ngeli xesha? I-Micro-overalls kunye ne-micro-shorts, i-voluminous pea jackets, iidyasi, okanye i-cardigans, enxibe ngaphandle kweebhutsi eziphakamileyo okanye ngamaqonga amakhulu (athi u-de Sarno, ngokucacileyo, wagqiba ekubeni enze isiqwenga sakhe sokutyikitya). I-Micro into eneedyasi ezinkulu ezinzima ezinde kunye nemisele, iilokhwe zokutyibilika, ezineleyisi okanye ezingenazo, ezinomngxuma okanye zingenamsintsi, kodwa ziseneebhutsi eziphakamileyo ezifanayo. Iimpahla ezinithiweyo kunye needyasi ezilungiswe ngento efana nentsimbi ekhazimlayo yomthi weKrisimesi okanye i-sequins ekhazimlayo-kwaye le tinsel ijingayo ibenyezelayo, kubonakala ngathi, yayikuphela kwento entsha yomlawuli omtsha wobugcisa. Yonke enye into kule ngqokelela yaziva imfiliba ngokupheleleyo nale yangaphambili - kwaye eyona nto ibaluleke ngakumbi nabanye abaninzi eyenziwe ngabanye abantu.

Ke kwakhona, siyibonile le tinsel yeKrisimesi imenyezelayo amaxesha amaninzi sele ikwingqokelela yeDries van Noten - nakwidyasi enye enkulu, ezinde. Sabona ezi bhutsi ziphakamileyo, kunye neebhutsi ezimfutshane ezifanayo / iibhulukhwe ezincinci kunye neekhati kwingqokelela yePrada FW09 yasentsomini, kwaye ezi ngubo zityibilikayo ezineleyisi echaseneyo zivela ngqo kwiingqokelela zikaPhoebe Filo zeCeline SS2016. Kwaye oko bekuya kuba kuhle ukuba u-Sabato de Sarno ubeke zonke ezi zikhombisi ngaphakathi kwengcamango yakhe yantlandlolo, waziqhubela phambili ngohlobo oluthile lombono wakhe, kwaye wazifakela kubuhle bakhe. Kodwa nokuba unezakhono ezithile, apho umsebenzi wakhe usekelwe ngokucacileyo, akanambono kwaye akanalo nofifi ngeGucci njengophawu lwefashoni.

Ngoko, yintoni esinayo apha? Kukho iiseti zefashoni, ngaphakathi apho unokufumana zonke iintsingiselo zangoku, zihlanganiswe kwaye zicwangciswe kakuhle. Kukho inkangeleko ecekethekileyo ebonakala ngathi linzame lokuphelisa uMichele kunye nokuvuselela iFord. Kukho iphalethi yombala esele imisiwe kwaye inomtsalane kakhulu enombala obomvu, oluhlaza, weterracotta, kunye namakhowa. Lilonke, kukho imveliso ephuma ngokunzulu kodwa edityaniswe kakuhle ingqokelela yorhwebo, apho iGucci ngokungathandabuzekiyo ibeka amathemba amakhulu orhwebo - ngengxoxo, isemthethweni. Nangona kunjalo, akukho nto kule ngqokelela ichaza ifashoni, isinika umbono wethu kwihlabathi lanamhlanje, ithimba ingqondo yethu, kwaye yenza iintliziyo zethu zitsibe. Emva koko, mhlawumbi amabhongo kaGucci awanwebisi kangako-okanye ayenzi njalo okwangoku. Mhlawumbi ukukhazimliswa kwesitayile ngaphezulu kwezinto kuya kuba yifashoni entsha - kodwa ukuba oko kuyenzeka, siyathemba ukuba ayizukuthatha ixesha elide.

 

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva