ITHUNYELWE YI-HDFASHION / Septemba 9TH 2024

UCeline: Abafana abaBright bakaHedi Slimane

Ngasekupheleni kweveki ephelileyo, uCeline ujonge iSipring-Ihlobo 20Ingqokelela yempahla yamadoda engama-25, kunye noHedi Slimane waphinda wakhetha ividiyo yeYouTube endaweni yomboniso we-catwalk wokwenyani, kwaye waphinda waphinda walandelwa ngamanqaku eklasiki endaweni ye-indie rock.

Kwiinyanga ezimbalwa ezidlulileyo, kwi ividiyo yakhe Okwexesha lonyaka langoku, uSlimane ufote kwintlango yaseMojave nakwiKlabhu yaseTroubadour yaseWest Hollywood. Ngeli xesha, wakhetha ukuba a inqaba, neendawo zayo ezinabileyo, kumaphandle aseNgilani.

Farewell, abakwishumi elivisayo beenkomo abanxibe ngesikhumba esimnyama- kwaye molo, iklasi ephezulu ulutsha kwiqakamba emhlophe iiwulu kunye neeblazer zokukhwela.

KUTHENI “EMNCANE EQHELEKILEYO”?

kunye "Abaselula AbaBright", U-Slimane wabuyela kwiintsuku zakhe zabafundi e-Ecole du Louvre, apho wabhala khona isicatshulwa kwimvelaphi ye-Anglomania, intshiseko yesiFrentshi yesitayela seNgesi, ebuyela emva kwexesha le-Versailles. Umyili waxuba ezimbalwa zamaqhawe akhe, njenge-eccentric IsiNgesi dandy uStephen Tennant (1906-1987), owayenxulumene nomzekelo uStella Tennant.

Kumanqaku eendaba, uSlimane uquke isicatshulwa sombhali uEvelyn Waugh Imizimba Emdaka: "Aniva nto ingako ngethemba kule mihla, akunjalo?... Balibele kwaphela ngethemba, bunye kuphela ububi obukhulu ehlabathini namhlanje. Ukuphelelwa lithemba."

Imizimba Emdaka, inoveli yesibini kaWaugh - yapapashwa ngo-1930 - i-parody ye-Bright Young Things, iqela le-Bohemian, i-aristocrats eselula ehlala ixutywe ngesondo kunye nentlalontle kwi-1920s yaseLondon, apho uStephen Tennant wayelilungu. U-Waugh uza kuqhubeka nokubhala Ukubuyekezwa kwentloko kaBrideshead, eyathi, kumashumi eminyaka kamva, yaguqulwa yaba luchungechunge lukamabonwakude oludumileyo nolunempembelelo.

Uthotho lwango-1981 lwaphefumlela intshukumo yeNew Romantics kwifashoni yaseBhritane kunye nomculo wepop (kubandakanya iVisage kunye noDuran Duran) ngelo xesha kwaye ikhokelele kwiimuvi ezibandakanya. Elinye Ilizwe kwaye Mauricekwaye ekugqibeleni, ityuwa.

"Abaselula AbaBright" inamalungu azo zonke ezi. Inokuba yenye yeemuvi ezithandwa kakhulu nguSlimane ezenzelwe uCeline.

YINTONI EPHAKATHI KWENGQOKELO?

Le yingqokelela ephezulu, kunye nokuthunga okwenziwe ngeseyile eyenziwe ukusukela ngo-1920s ehlotyeni. imali ezinkozo kunye noboya, obuthungelwe ngokutsha uCeline. Iisuti zigqitywe nge-waistcoats kwi-damask, okanye zifakwe ngesandla kwi-1920s i-motifs yeentyatyambo zentsimi zesiNgesi. Iibhatyi ezilungisiweyo kunye neeblazer zokukhwela zenziwe nge-cashmere flannel. Ezinye iibhatyi zokubhexa zineebroyired trompe l'oeil couture piece, ezenziwe ngesandla kwii-ateliers zohlobo. Ezinye zeziqwenga ziza kunye ne-heraldic-style patches kwintoni uphawu ichaza njenge "isilivere ekhazimlisiweyo cannetiles ukujija", ukuveliswa kweendlela zokuhombisa ezisetyenziswa kwi le ekuqaleni Ngenkulungwane ye-20 iyunifomu yomkhosi isithethe. Izihlangu - richelieus, iimonki kunye ne-tapered derbies - zibhekisela kwiindlela zokunxiba zaseBritane ukusuka kwixesha elifanayo.

Kodwa ayizizo zonke iireferensi zaseBritani: ngokutsho kwamanqaku eendaba, uSlimane wajonga imifanekiso yombhali waseMelika uF. Scott Fitzgerald ekutyeleleni kwihotele yase-Eden Roc e-Antibes ngo-1922 xa wayeyila iiflaneli ezimhlophe ze-Summer cashmere.

Ividiyo yafotwa ngoJuni ophelileyo, kwiholo laseHolham, eNorfolk. Ingoma yasikwa kuJean-Philippe Rameau's Les Indes Galantes, eyabhalwa ngo-1736 kwi-ballet kwiTheatre du Palais-Royal. Isiqwenga salahleka ngaphezu kweminyaka eyi-150, kwaye yafunyanwa kwakhona ngo-1957, xa yenziwa eVersailles phambi koKumkanikazi waseNgilani, kutyelelo olusemthethweni eFransi.

UNOKUYINJA, NAWE

"Abaselula AbaBright" yazisa nevumba elitsha kwingqokelela ye-haute perfumerie kaCeline. I-Rebours, enamanqaku e-oki moss, imisedare, i-nutmeg, i-coumarin kunye ne-cashmeran, yabelana ngesihloko kunye nenoveli ka-1884 kaJoris-Karl Huysmans- ithathelwe ingqalelo njengobuchule boncwadi olubi.

YINTONI ELANDELAYO?

Ke, ngaba le ngqokelela kaHedi Slimane yokugqibela kaCeline? Amahemuhemu Umyili oshiya uphawu uzingile phantse unyaka ngoku, kwaye iChanel ihlala iqanjwa njengendawo yokuya elandelayo. Akukabikho zibhengezo zitsha ukuza kuthi ga ngoku. USlimane, owayeseSaint Laurent, eDior, kwaye ebuyela eSaint Laurent ngaphambi kweCeline, wayehlala ethatha ixesha lakhe, kubandakanya ikhefu eliliqela kuyilo lwefashoni, ukugxila kwifoto yakhe. Ngenxa yokugxila kwakhe kwiifilimu zefashoni zikaCeline, ngaba kungakho imuvi elandelayo?

Ngoncedo: Celine

Umbhalo: Iqela labahleli