"Calla": Ingqokelela yokuqala kaKatrantzou eBvlgari

Lisemthethweni: UMary Katrantzou ubuyile kumdlalo wefashoni. Ingqokelela ye "Calla" iphawula umyili womyili ongumGrike kwindima yakhe njengoMlawuli woBugcisa weMpahla yeMpahla kunye neZincedisi zeBvlgari. Ikhuthazwe bubunzulu bembali yaseRoma kunye nelifa leBvlgari elinomfanekiso, izincedisi ze-"Calla" ezitsala amehlo zizisa umbono omtsha kwi-iconic Jewellery House ngelixa ibeka kwindawo entle ubuhle bayo obungaphelelwa lixesha. Nantsi yonke into oyifunayo ukuyazi malunga neqoqo lemifanekiso.

KUTHENI U CALLA?

Embindini wengqokelela ye-"Calla" ngumxholo ophefumlelwe yi-Terme di Caracalla, indlu yokuhlambela yamandulo yaseRoma eyaziwa ngokuba yi-mosaic entsonkothileyo kunye nembali edlamkileyo. Yakhiwa ngenkulungwane yesithathu AD kwaye yayikhe yaqwalaselwa njengenye yemimangaliso esixhenxe yaseRoma, iTerme di Caracalla yayingaphezulu nje kwendawo yokuhlambela - yayiyindawo yobomi bentlalo nenkcubeko kwiRoma yamandulo. Igumbi lokuhlambela lalinomfanekiso ocacileyo wepolychrome mosaics eyenziwe ngebhastile tesserae kwiithowuni ezinje ngeperile emhlophe, iamethiste, i-emerald, kunye negolide. Ziphinde zafunyanwa kwaye zatyhilwa kwihlabathi kuzuko lwazo olupheleleyo emva kokubuyiselwa okubalulekileyo ngo-2015 kunye no-2016, le mizobo yomfanekiso isebenza njengeyona mpembelelo iphambili yokuqokelelwa. Igama elithi "Calla" ngokwalo lithatyathwe kwigama lesiGrike elithi "ubuhle obumangalisayo", liyenza ibe sisihloko esifanelekileyo ngeli xesha litsha kwiimpahla zesikhumba kunye nezixhobo zeBvlgari.

NGUBANI UMARIYA KATRANTZOU?

Eyaziwa ngokuba yindlovukazi yoshicilelo, uMary Katrantzou ngumyili wefashoni wase-Athens osekelwe eLondon ogxile kuyo yonke into elukiweyo; cinga iprints, imathiriyeli, amalaphu, kunye nokuhombisa. Ngomama womyili wangaphakathi kunye notata oyinjineli yelaphu, kucacile ukuba uthando lwakhe lubaleka egazini lakhe. Uqhayisa ngezinto ezininzi awazifezayo kulo lonke ilizwe lefashoni ukusuka kwingqokelela yakhe emininzi esele ilungele ukunxiba evela kwiindlela zeenqwelomoya zeveki yefashoni, ethengisa ezivenkileni kwihlabathi liphela, kwaye esebenzisana nezindlu ezinkulu zefashoni-ayothusi into yokuba uBvlgari ebenomdla wokumchonga njengomphathi wabo. Umlawuli omtsha wezinto zesikhumba kunye nezixhobo ngo-Epreli ka-2024.

YINTONI EYENZA INGQONGQO YE-“CALLA” IKHETHEKILE?

Ingqokelela yokuqala kaMary Katrantzou yeBvlgari ingaphezulu nje kokuphonononga imbali yamandulo yaseRoma; ngumbhiyozo wesazisi se-maison njengeJeweler ePhakamileyo yaseRoma enelifa lemveli elinzulu kunye nembali. Ngengqokelela ye "Calla", ukwazile ukuluka kunye imisonto yembali kaBvlgari ngombono wakhe owahlukileyo. Indlela uKatrantzou ayitolika ngayo le mizobo yakudala ibonakala kwingqokelela yemosaic yengqokelela, ethatha imo yefeni enenkanuko, egobileyo. Le motif ayihambelani kuphela neemosaics zembali kodwa inxibelelana neesimboli ezifana negqabi leginkgo, elaziwa ngokomelela kunye nokuqina, kunye nenyibiba calla, ebonisa ubunyulu, ubuhle, umanyano kunye nokuzalwa ngokutsha.

YINTONI NGAPHAKATHI?

I-Serpenti ka-Bvlgari lolona phawu lubalaseleyo lobuhle benyoka, olusithathileyo kuhambo lwe-metamorphosis ngaphezulu kweminyaka engama-75. Kwesi sahluko esitsha, ingqokelela iphinda iphinde ithathelwe ingqalelo kwimifanekiso eqingqiweyo ethi "Serpenti Forever" kunye noyilo olutsha lwe "Serpenti Sugarloaf" - ingxowa ye-nappa ene-padded-volume egxalabeni ephefumlelwe ngokwahlukileyo okunqabileyo okuphezulu kwe-Bvlgari's signature cabochon cut. Le bhegi iqaqambisa ingqalelo ecokisekileyo kwiinkcukacha, ngomgca ngamnye we-matelassé eyenziwe ngokuchanekileyo ngamagcisa e-Bvlgari yembali yempahla yesikhumba e-Florence.

Ukongeza kwingqokelela yi-handbag ye "Serpentine Duo", itoti entsha enemilo yetrapeze ekhumbuza i-faceted cut of gemstones ezixabisekileyo. Umqheba wayo wesinyithi, ohonjiswe ngentloko ye-Serpenti ephindwe kabini kwicala ngalinye, ubhekisa ngokuthe ngqo kwilifa le-Bvlgari elityebileyo lobucwebe. Ibhegi iza kwiinguqulelo ezimbini: inguqulelo yesikhumba encinci yemini kunye nenguqulelo yangokuhlwa eqaqambileyo ehlotshiswe ngamakristale abekwe ngesandla ngokucokisekileyo ukuqinisekisa ukugqibelela. Olu yilo lubonakalisa isakhono esikhethekileyo sikaBvlgari sokudibanisa ubuchule bokwenza ubucwebe nobuchwephesha besikhumba, nto leyo ekhokelela kwiqhekeza elilixabiso lexabiso elixabisekileyo njengoko lisisincedisi esisebenzayo.

Esinye isiqwenga esibalaseleyo kwingqokelela ye "Calla" yi-clutch "Ginkgo", ebamba i-motif yengqokelela ngendlela ecocekileyo. Yenzelwe ukuba inxitywe njengesacholo kunye ne-clutch, i-aclutch "Ginkgo" ikhupha i-motif ye-fan kwipateni yayo edibeneyo, idala i-silhouette eyahlukileyo. Yenziwe ngesandla kwisikhumba esihle saseNappa kunye nesinyithi esibunjiweyo, bubungqina bokudityaniswa kokwenziwa kwezacholo kunye nobugcisa besikhumba, uphawu loyilo lwefilosofi yeBvlgari.

YINTONI ELANDELAYO?

Isibhengezo sokumiselwa kukaKatrantzou kule nkampani sikwaphawula ukubuya kwakhe ngenkalipho kwilizwe lefashoni – esinethemba lokuba, sisiqalo nje sobu budlelwane bunika umdla. Ukuhlonipha imbali ye-brand kunye nelifa elihlala lihleli, iziqwenga eziyilwe phantsi kolwalathiso lwakhe lokuyila azipheleli nje ekuchazeni isazisi seBvlgari, kodwa zimiselwe ukuba zibe ziiklasikhi zanamhlanje. Kwaye, ngethemba, esi sahluko sitsha siya kunika u-Mary inkuthazo yokuba abuyele kuhambo lwakhe kunye nendalo yakhe esele ilungele ukunxiba ephoswa ngabathandi befashoni kwishedyuli yeVeki yeFashoni yaseLondon.

Umbhalo: Leilani Streshinsky

Ngoncedo: Bvlgari