Tod’s Fall 2025: A Masterclass in Quiet Luxury

Tod’s Fall 2025 was a confident reaffirmation of the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship, quiet luxury and contemporary elegance. With Matteo Tamburini at the helm, the Italian label delivered a lineup that celebrated rich textures, impeccable tailoring and a subtle evolution of its heritage pieces.

From the outset, it was evident that Tamburini’s focus this season was on the tactile experience of fashion. Welcoming the guests at PAC – the Contemporary Art Pavilion designed in the 50s and rebuilt after bombing in the 90s – was a sculptural Carla Bruni cocooned in recycled Tod’s leather, standing tall thanks to a Nelly Agassi artwork, holding a giant needle as a nod to the brand’s craftsmanship. Tamburini is not new at promoting installations before his shows, with the intention of celebrating the maison’s core values while introducing the focus of the season. That was how luxurious outerwear took center stage on the runway, featuring sumptuous shearling, brushed alpaca wool and finely structured leather. Each piece was designed not just for visual impact but also to be felt. With tailoring being an essential component of Tod’s DNA, Tamburini’s designs favoured clean, architectural lines with structured blazers, impeccably cut wool coats and skirts that exuded effortless confidence. The collection didn’t rely on excessive embellishments or gimmicks: it let the strength of construction and quality of materials do the talking. The silhouettes were precise but never rigid, cinched at the waist yet relaxed enough to evoke a sense of ease.

No Tod’s collection would be complete without its iconic leather goods, and the Fall 2025 lineup focused on belts, which played a crucial role in defining silhouettes and adding a polished finish to many of the tailored looks. Meanwhile, knee-high leather boots reinforced the season’s sophisticated yet pragmatic ethos, while bags recalled the sculpturesque artwork worn by Carla Bruni at the entrance with their patches of leather. Structured but with a soft attitude at the same time, they were carried by hand or with ease, at times textured via suede ostrich materials. Smaller leather wallets and purses were scattered through the collection, attached to tote bags or on one belt’s side by refined steel and leather hooks. Finally, gloves with the same patchwork approach and organic-shaped sunglasses complemented Tod’s Fall 25 collection perfectly, summarising its color palette. Earthy tones were at the core of the show, with a setting exuding understated elegance mirroring the brand’s aesthetic: discreet and luxurious. Among olive greens and dusty greys, different shades of red made some elements stand out from the wardrobe: a double-breasted coat, a casual yet formal shirt, a foldable croc-leather bag, an impressive wintery trench coat, a subtle scarf with tassels and a triangle-shaped purse paired with primary color blue and yellow.

There were no radical departures from Tod’s usual aesthetic, no dramatic reinventions – just a steady refinement of what the brand does best. In an era where many luxury houses are pushing for maximalism, Tod’s remains firmly committed to its restrained, elegant approach. Matteo Tamburini’s vision is not in the business of reinvention for reinvention’s sake; instead, it offers an unwavering dedication to timeless style and artisanal craftsmanship. While some may wish for a bolder departure, others will appreciate the steady hand with which he steers the brand.

Courtesy: Tod's

Text: Giorgia Feroldi