The Hermès FW2025 Prêt-à-Porter Collection Focuses on Creating Enduring Perfection

Nadège Vanhée explains that the primary inspirations for the current collection stem from the world of dandyism, which is closely linked to the realm of horse riding – a  natural and familiar association for Hermès. It was the world of dandies and their equestrian hats that inspired the scenographic concept of the défilé, held within a labyrinth of felt-covered structures. The Hermès’ notes for the show describe the “complicity of the felt, rigorous and protective, with the dandy-spirited flair of the leather.”

Rigorous and protective can be seen as defining characteristics of the entire Hermès aesthetic: these qualities form the foundation of the house, along with a passion for travel and horse riding. There is likely not a single collection that hasn’t referenced these themes in some way. This time, for instance, loose leather coats with wool lining were fastened with buttons on the sides — a detail inspired by horsemen, as these fasteners make it easier to swing a leg over the horse's croup.

Regarding rigidity, the color scheme deserves special mention as it was meticulously curated and limited to deep brown and black tones reminiscent of a horse's coat, along with marble whites, charcoal, volcanic, and slate greys. The only other hues introduced were flashes of red (in the form of boots) and the luminous greens of cypress, linden, and pine, presented in fitted leather coats. 

The winter 2025 collection features a significant amount of leather, including coats, jackets, and, of course, trousers. However, we would like to highlight the leather mini-shorts, which were showcased in several versions, including quilted ones, as well as the quilted leather dresses, which were, tight and sleeveless. These dresses were paired with separate cashmere sleeves featuring leather patches on the elbows. The most impressive item in terms of materials and craftsmanship was a reversible pelisse in volcanic gray silk gabardine, assembled on light Brisa sheepskin. At first glance, the silk gabardine appears to be made of a high-tech waterproof fabric, contrasting with the sheepskin, which, when turned outward, looks particularly luxurious.

The Hermès FW2025 collection emphasizes protction through its layered silhouette,– featuring an inner layer close to the body and a loose outer layer. The knitwear, which forms the foundation of most outfits, is particularly striking. Thin leggings, crewneck, and turtleneck sweaters made from a blend of silk and cashmere are not only worn, but also styled creatively by tying them around the waist or draping them over the shoulders in multiple layers. Paired with leather and sheepskin coats, this ensemble captures the essence of protective comfort which maintaining a chic appearance. The high boots, inspired by the classic Hermès riding boots but redesigned without a strap at the top and featuring a sharper toe, especially in a vivid red color, add an extra edge to the runway looks.

It’s impossible not to mention the new bags: a very tiny one that fits under the arm and a rectangular one with a new H clasp. Although quite small, it can hold everything you need, such as an iPhone, lipstick, powder, and other beauty essentials. And if you suddenly need more space, there’s the most spectacular novelty of all — a real beauty case. This case can accommodate several bottles of perfume, multiple lipsticks, powder, blush, eyeshadow, a set of pencils, and all the brushes. And all this, of course, comes from Hermès.

Even the classic Birkin was so stunning this time that it was hard to take your eyes off it. It was presented in a rare combination: Barenia leather in marron ebene color.

Compared to the winter that just ended, which featured tight leather trousers, jackets cinched at the waist, and a general power woman vibe, the upcoming winter will offer more freedom to the body. It will wrap our body up in warm layers and cover it with large, loose coats.

This protection is of the most exceptional quality, showcasing marvellous materials and incredible craftsmanship – values held in the highest regard in the world of Hermès, where no compromises are conceivable.

Courtesy: Hermès

Text: Elena Stafyeva