The Convergence of Simplicity and Complexity in the Hermès Menswear SS2026 Collection

Writing about impeccable collections is challenging, especcially when the whole process behind them is so seamless as to become invisible. Occasionally, during a show, you might notice that a designer overlooked something here or didn't quite finish something there, resulting in an outcome that wasn’t exactly as intended. This is never the case with Véronique Nichanian. Her collections always appear absolutely complete, as if they emerged fully formed in her mind, with all their details, colors, and shapes – including the precise bags, shoes, and jewelry. Her vision is exceptionally strong and complete, and the coherence of her collections is consistently impressive. While some collections may be more appealing than others, their completeness and integrity remain constant. This perfectly aligns with Hermès’ most important aesthetic principle: effortless understatement.

However, it's hard to imagine not liking the current collection, which is undoubtedly one of Mrs. Nichanian’s best in recent seasons. It appears so offhand, as if all this perfection has materialized spontaneously, requiring no effort. Even the vest in a chocolate shade of alligator skin, worn over a sleeveless top, and a chalk-colored jacket made of the same material, worn over a pajama top tucked into trousers, exude a natural chic without any unnecessary embellishments – something only Hermès can achieve.

All volumes and proportions are perfectly balanced: the pants are quite loose but not overly wide, with double belt loops designed to adjust the fit. This allows the pants to appear either high-waisted and fitted or loose and relaxed. Unconventional combinations of items, such as pairing an alligator jacket with a pajama top and leather sandals on a braided sole, are presented without special emphasis. It’s as if wearing a crocodile jacket over pajamas, donning beach sandals, and stepping out dressed this way is the most natural thing in the world.

As always, the names of Hermès colors sound like a poem: putty, kraft, coffee, caramel, ficelle, enhanced by a deep burgundy, an intense vanilla, and the flash of mint green. They blend together in the most natural way, as if we’ve all the time worn an eggshell-colored jacket with a peach-hued bandana and coffee-colored pants.

Of course, this extraordinary simplicity and lightness result from exceptionally complex and meticulous work, both artistic and craft. Many of the items are not actually what they seem. You see a mesh top and mesh pants and think of how the knitwear is light and flexible yet holds its shape well. In reality, it's a leather openwork weave, and the pants are made of the same leather mesh, literally woven. The same leather weave is used to create the gray, white-striped shirt with short sleeves. Bandanas with fringed edges – in emerald, peach, beige, and burgundy, which accompanied many looks and immediately caught the eye - turned out to be made of suede, not silk. This becomes noticeable only upon closer inspection, along with a delicate pattern that decorates them. There are similar silk ones as well, in shades of the gray Parisian sky or wet Parisian pavement, which form a cohesive whole with short- or long-sleeved tops made of dense, soft silk that drapes perfectly.

And, of course, one cannot overlook the new bags that appeared at this show. They were all large, with many travel options among them – this choice created a light vintage vibe that added chic to them. For example Long Courrier garment bag in H canvas and Barénia calfskin or Haut à Courroies bag in plume H canvas and Barénia or Togo calfskin featured a print of a horse and rider in a gallop, which seems to blur and disappear.

There are many illusions in the world of Hermès, masterfully invented and executed, but there is one thing that is absolutely not illusory: the eternal elegance of all Hermès items and the exceptional quality of their materials. Everything else is never set in stone, remains in perpetual motion, can change, and always gives freedom to their owner.

Courtesy: Hermès

Text: Elena Stafyeva