A Surrealist Approach To Technology: Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Spring 2024 Collection

Paris Fashion Week commenced with a captivating display from Schiaparelli — the Haute Couture Spring 2024 collection

Daniel Roseberry, the creative director, blended surrealism with a touch of technology, creating a fashion spectacle that tugs at the heart. In this collection, we explore the contrasts between heritage, avant-garde, beauty, provocation, earthly, and heavenly elements.

Drawing inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli's penchant for unexpected unions, the collection debuted with a series of black ensembles, skillfully amalgamating futuristic shapes. Notable among them was a glossy black vinyl jacket featuring inflated sleeves, paired with cowboy-inspired silver buckles on cropped black pants — a striking fusion evoking the vibes of "The Matrix" intertwined with elements reminiscent of "Westworld."

Channeling Ellen Ripley from "Alien," model Maggie Maurer cradled a doll adorned with Swarovski crystals and electronic chips, a nod to the pre-iPhone era. A silver "robot" dress showcased a pileup of electronic waste, representing pre-2007 technology — now considered prehistoric, including flip phones, CDs, and calculators, as explained by Roseberry.

Roseberry's creative well drew from Azzedine Alaïa's vintage haute couture exhibition, evident in the collection's timeless neutral palette. Amidst the showstoppers were face-veiling dresses and red-carpet beauties, such as a draped and knotted tank dress adorned with a cheeky trompe-l’oeil outline of men’s underwear — a playful twist amid sophistication.

A standout puffball gown in pink satin, adorned with an asymmetrical black jersey sweep, paid homage to René Gruau's Rouge Baiser lipstick illustration. Daniel Roseberry, tinged with nostalgia, paid tribute to the couture technique of grand flou, or draping, as a key team member bid farewell post-season.

 In this harmonious blend of innovation, homage, and artistry, Schiaparelli's Haute Couture Spring 2024 collection emerges as a magical tapestry intricately woven with emotion and storytelling. The runway showcased the brilliance of Roseberry’s vision and paid tribute to the rich legacy and traditions that form the foundation of haute couture.

Editor: Kateryna Kushnir