Celine: Bahlankana ba Khanyang ba Hedi Slimane

Bofelong ba beke e fetileng, Celine o ile a shebella Sselemo-Lehlabula 20Pokello ea liaparo tsa banna tse 25, 'me Hedi Slimane o ile a boela a khetha video ea YouTube ho e-na le pontšo ea sebele ea catwalk,' me a boela a utloahala ka lintlha tsa khale ho e-na le rock ea indie.

Likhoeli tse 'maloa tse fetileng, ka video ea hae bakeng sa sehla sa hajoale, Slimane o ile a etsa filimi lehoatateng la Mojave le Sehlopheng sa Troubadour se West Hollywood. Lekhetlong lena, o ile a khetha ho qhobosheaneng, le mabala a eona a mangata, naheng ea Manyesemane.

Sala hantle, bahlankana ba likhomo ba lilemong tsa bocha ba apereng letlalo le letšo - le hello, maemo a hodimo bacha ka krikete e tšoeu boea ba boea le li-blazers tsa ho soka sekepe.

KE HOBANE'NG HA “MOCHA A KHABANE”?

le "Bacha ba Khanyang", Slimane o ile a khutlela matsatsing a seithuti sa Ecole du Louvre, moo a kileng a ngola moqoqo ka tšimoloho ea Anglomania, takatso ea Sefora ea mokhoa oa Senyesemane, o qalileng mehleng ea Versailles. Moqapi o ile a kopanya bahale ba hae ba 'maloa, joalo ka dandy ea Senyesemane ea makatsang Stephen Tennant (1906-1987), ea neng a amana le mohlala oa Stella Tennant.

Lintlheng tsa boralitaba, Slimane o kenyelelitse mantsoe a qotsitsoeng ho mongoli Evelyn Waugh's Mele e Kholo: "Ha o utlwe haholo ka tshepo matsatsing ana, na ha ho jwalo?... Ba lebetse ka tshepo, ho na le bobe bo le bong feela bo boholo lefatsheng kajeno. Ho nyahama."

Mele e Kholo, Pale ea bobeli ea Waugh - e hatisitsoe ka 1930 - ke papiso ea Bright Young Things, sehlopha sa Bohemian, hangata bacha ba nang le likamano tse sa tsitsang tsa thobalano le socialites ka 1920s London, eo Stephen Tennant e neng e le setho sa eona. Waugh o ne a tla tsoela pele ho ngola Monyaluoa o Etetsoe Bocha, eo, lilemo tse mashome hamorao, e ileng ea fetoloa letoto la thelevishene le tummeng le le nang le tšusumetso.

Letoto la 1981 le ile la susumetsa mokhatlo oa New Romantics ho feshene ea Borithane le 'mino oa pop (ho kenyeletsoa Visage le Duran Duran oa pele) ka nako eo mme a lebisa lifiliming tse kenyelletsang. Naha enngwe 'me Maurice, mme qetellong, Saltburn.

"Bacha ba Khanyang" e na le likarolo tsa tsena tsohle. Mohlomong ke e 'ngoe ea lifilimi tse monate ka ho fetesisa tseo Slimane a li etselitseng Celine.

HO NA LE ENG KA HARE POKELENG?

Ena ke pokello ea maemo a holimo, e nang le masela a entsoeng ka seile a entsoeng ka bo-1920 Summer. chelete le boea bo lohelletsoeng Celine. Lisutu li apesoa ka li-waistcoats ka damask, kapa tse khabisitsoeng ka letsoho ka 1920s motifs ea lipalesa tsa masimo a Senyesemane. Li-jackets tse khaotsoeng le li-blazers tsa ho roka li entsoe ka flannel ea cashmere. Lijaki tse ling tsa ho soka sekepe li na le likotoana tse khabisitsoeng tsa trompe l'oeil couture, tse entsoeng ka letsoho ka har'a li-ateliers tsa brand. Tse ling tsa likotoana li tla le li-patches tsa mofuta oa heraldic ka eng letšoao e hlalosa joalo ka "silevera e bentšitsoeng cannetiles ho koela", tlhahiso ea mekhoa ea ho khabisa e sebelisoang ho ea mathoasong a La bo20 la lilemo moetlo junifomo ea sesole. Lieta - richelieus, baitlami le li-derby tse tapered - li bua ka mekhoa ea moaparo oa Brithani ho tloha ka nako e le 'ngoe.

Empa ha se litšupiso tsohle tsa Brithani: ho ea ka lintlha tsa khatiso, Slimane o ile a sheba litšoantšo tsa mongoli oa Leamerika F. Scott Fitzgerald ha a etela Hotel Eden Roc Antibes ka 1922 ha a ne a etsa li-flannel tse tšoeu tsa Summer cashmere.

Video e ile ea nkuoa ka Phuptjane e fetileng, Holham Hall, Norfolk. Molumo o ile oa khaoloa ho Les Indes Galntes ea Jean-Philippe Rameau, e ngotsoeng ka 1736 bakeng sa ballet Theater du Palais-Royal. Sekhechana sena se ile sa lahleha ka lilemo tse fetang 150, 'me sa fumanoa hape ka 1957, ha se ne se etsoa Versailles ka pel'a Mofumahali oa Engelane, leetong la molao la Fora.

LE WENA U KA E NKA

"Bacha ba Khanyang" e boetse e hlahisa monko o monate oa pokello ea haute ea Celine ea haute. A Rebours, e nang le lintlha tsa moss oa oak, kedare, nutmeg, coumarin le cashmeran, e arolelana sehlooho le buka ea 1884 ea Joris-Karl Huysmans - e nkuoe e le mosebetsi o tsoileng matsoho oa lingoliloeng tse senyehileng.

KE ENG E LATELANG?

Joale, na ke pokello ea ho qetela ea Hedi Slimane bakeng sa Celine? Ho lla ea moqapi ea tlohelang cha e 'nile ea phehella hoo e ka bang selemo joale,' me Chanel e atisa ho bitsoa sebaka se latelang se ka khonehang. Ha ho so be le liphatlalatso tse ncha ho fihlela joale. Slimane, ea neng a le Saint Laurent, Dior, 'me a khutletse Saint Laurent pele ho Celine, esale a nka nako ea hae, ho kenyelletsa le khefu e' maloa ho tloha moetsong oa feshene, ho tsepamisa maikutlo ho nka lifoto tsa hae. Ha a shebane le lifilimi tsa feshene bakeng sa Celine, na ho ka ba le filimi e latelang?

Ka tlhompho: Celine

Mongolo: Sehlopha sa bahlophisi