Chii Chinotevera Glenn Martens uye Y/Project?

Chokwadi: neChishanu chapfuura, mugadziri Glenn Martens akazivisa kuti ave kuenda Y / Chirongwa, chiratidzo chaaive achishanda kubva muna 2013. Mwedzi inoverengeka yapfuura, muridzi uye mubatanidzwa Gilles Elalouf, akafa, achisiya zvikamu zvake mubhizinesi kumukoma wake.

Mwaka wadarika, mhando yakadzima kuratidzwa kwayo kweParis Fashion Vhiki paminiti yekupedzisira (zviri pamutemo kusvika "tarisa pakudyara kwemukati"; muunganidzwa wakazovhurwa mubhuku rekutarisa rine shamwari nemhuri semienzaniso), uye haizoratidzi mwedzi uno, zvakare. Inobatanidza Ludovic de Saint Sernin, uyo akaburitsawo mukarenda yePFW, zvisingatarisirwi, uye mhando kusanganisira Lanvin, Givenchy uye Tom Ford, vari kugadzirira vatungamiri vavo vatsva vekugadzira kwemwaka unotevera. Chii chichaitika kuY/Project, zvinoramba zvichionekwa.

Zvichakadaro, Martens anoenderera mberi achitungamira brand yeItaly jeanswear Diesel, kwaave ari director wekugadzira kubva Gumiguru 2020, aine show muMilan masikati eGunyana 21.st. Anotarisirwawo zvizere kuti atore basa rakakura rekugadzira, ringangove paimba yeumbozha, pane imwe nguva munguva iri pedyo kana kure.

"MUNHU ANOGADZIRA NGUO, KWETE ZVIMWE ZVAKARENDERERA"

Y/Projekiti yakavambwa senge yekubhuroka, post-goth men's label muna 2010, nemugadziri Yohan Serfaty (saka iyo Y muY/Project).

Mushure mekunge Serfaty afa zvinosiririsa muna 2013, Martens akatora chinzvimbo, zvishoma nezvishoma achiita izwi rake uye chiono, uye achiwedzera kupfeka zvipfeko zvevakadzi, izvo zvakabva zvatanga. a chikamu chikuru chebhizinesi. Y/Project yakakurumidza kuva nesimba uye mune zvekutengeserana budirira, uye zviratidzo zvayo zvaiva pakati pezvinonyanya kutarisirwa paParis Fashion Week karenda. Martens akapihwa mubairo weANDAM muna 2017.

Mugadziri weBelgian, anobva kuBruges, akange adzidza kuAntwerp's Royal Academy uye, saMartin Margiela akamutangira, akatanga basa rake muParis. Jean Paul Gaultier. Akabvunza mabrand akafanana Weekday uye bhasi, uye aive neyake, eponymous mutsara wemwaka wese we3 asati atora basa reY/Project.

"Ini ndinofunga zvakakosha kuti zvipfeko zvedu zvigadzirise hunhu uye kusarudzika," Martens akadaro muna Ndira 2019, Y/Project yakaratidza kuPitti muFlorence. “Pfungwa yacho ndeyokuti munhu wacho anogadzira mbatya dzacho, kwete kushandura. Muchidimbu, zvese zvakagadzirirwa kupfekwa nevarume nevakadzi. Uye ivo vanogona kutarisa vese vari varume uye vakadzi kwazvo. Hatidi kugadzira uto revanhu vakafanana.”

"Isu tiri chikwangwani chepfungwa," akaenderera mberi. “Kunyangwe t-shirt yedu yakapfava ine pfungwa yakamonyoroka. Hatigadziri mablazers kana bhurugwa. Streetwear ine nzvimbo mufashoni. Asi zvandisinganzwisise majuzi ane logo inodhura 800 euros. Kwandiri, izvozvo hazvisi zveumbozha, uye handizvo zvandinoda kuita. Ndinofunga kuti unofanira kukoshesa vatengi vako. "

CHII CHINOTENDA?

Chii chinotevera Glenn Martens? Parizvino, achiri mutungamiriri wekugadzira weItaly jeanswear brand Diesel, iyo pasi pehutungamiriri hwake yakave yakakosha zvakare, mushure memakore mazhinji mufashoni doldrums. Akagadziridza zvitoro, akavhura Milan Fashion Week inoratidza kune veruzhinji padanho risati ramboitika, uye akatora bhizinesi rekunhuhwirira, rakapihwa rezinesi kuL'Oréal, munzira nyowani, yakasiyana.

Mamiriro efashoni ari kunyatsogadziriswa mazuva ano, uye kunyangwe ese ari maviri Tom Ford uye Givenchyvakasarudza vagadziri vatsva mukati memazuva manomwe apfuura, pachine vacancies aplenty, pama brand kusanganisira Dries van noten uye Chanel.

Martens achaenda here Maison Margiela, John Galliano anonzi ari kuenda kupi? The runyerekupe vanoshingirira. Uye hongu, Martens naMargiela vese maBelgian, uye mazita avo anotanga nemavara matatu mamwe chete. Maison Margiela ndewe OTB, rinova boka raRenzo Rosso, uye ndiye muzvinabhizinesi ari kumashure kweDiesel. Martens, saMargiela pamberi pake, anonyanya kupesvedzera avant-garde mugadziri, ane muono wakapinda mukati mevanhu. Asi zvakare, basa repamusoro paMargiela rinogona kunge riri chipo chine chepfu. Galliano aita semhumhi yakapfeka makwai, achisundira nhaka yaMargiela parutivi zvachose kuti atarise chinhu chake, uye achidzikisa Margiela kune logo (iyo ina stitches), tabi shangu, uye chena lab majasi evashandi. Uye zvakare kune Demna, uyo akabudirira zvakanyanya, kutanga pa zvipfekouyezve pa Balenciaga, nechitarisiko, uye chiono, icho chakaunza mamwe epfungwa dzaMargiela ku21st Century. Kutangazve Margiela, mumamiriro ekunze efashoni aripo, zvichave zvakaoma.

"Margiela inzira yekufunga," Martens akaratidzira makore ese apfuura muFlorence. “Ini ndiri wechizvarwa chakakura naMargiela, saka zvakajairika kuti titaure nezvebasa rake. Pane a kubatanidza, izvo hazvirevi kuti tinongokopa/kunamira zvaanenge aita.”

Martens mugadziri wenyeredzi; zvirokwazvo ari pabasa rekubata Margiela - asi anonyatsoda here?

Kutendeseka: Y/Project yepamutemo webhusaiti 

Chinyorwa: Chikwata chevapepeti