AKANYORWA NEHDFASHION / Kurume 11TH 2024

Saint Laurent FW24: kusimudzira nhaka

Panogona kuve pasina kupokana kuti kubudirira kukuru kwaAnthony Vaccarello kwave kuri kugona kwake kuona uye kugadzirisa nhaka yaYves Saint Laurent, uye nekubatanidzwa kunogutsa kweiyo huru silhouettes yeYSL muSL yemazuva ano. Izvo hazvina kuitika pakarepo uye zvakamutora makore akati wandei, asi ikozvino, nemwaka mutsva wega wega, kutora kwake kunotarisa zvakanyanya uye kugutsikana zvese maererano nemavhoriyamu uye silhouettes, uye maererano nemidziyo uye maumbirwo.

Kutanga, ngatikurukurei nezvemavhoriyamu. Makore mashoma apfuura, Vaccarello akatanga kuratidza mabhachi akatwasuka ane mapendekete akakura uye akaomarara, akatorwa kubva kune akaitwa naYves Saint Laurent mukutanga kwema1980, yaive yekutanga kupindira kwake kwakananga munhaka yaYves - uye yakanakisa pane izvozvo. Kubva ipapo, mapendekete makuru ave akajairika zvekuti tinoaona chaizvo muunganidzwa wega wega. Pane imwe nguva, Vaccarello akatanga kudzikisira mavhoriyamu, aive mafambiro akakodzera, uye muSL FW24 maingova nemajaketi mashoma akadaro ane mapendekete makuru. Izvo zvakati, pakanga paine mvere zhinji - sezvakangoita mwaka uno - uye yaive yakawanda. Anenge ese modhi aive nemajasi mahombe akapfava - mumaoko avo kana pamapfudzi, asi kazhinji mumaoko avo - uye aibva kune yakakurumbira haute couture PE1971 muunganidzwa nejasi rayo diki remakushe rakasvibira, iro rakarova zvakanyanya kubva kuvatsoropodzi. kumashure.

Zvino, maumbirwo. Kana muunganidzwa uyu waive nedingindira, raive pachena, iro rakanyatso pindirana nechiratidziro chichangobva kuvhurwa Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Chinhu chikuru apa chaive masiketi akajeka akatetepa, ayo Vaccarello kazhinji akaita chimiro chake chikuru, uye pakanga painewo mabhesi akajeka uye, hongu, mabhurukwa eYSL akajeka ane uta. Asi izvi zvese pachena, pamwe nekuda kwekuwanda kweVaccarello's ikozvino inofarira beige uye jecha, iyo yakava iwo mavara makuru ekuunganidza, yaitaridzika senge latex BDSM, uye zvishoma seKubrick's sci-fi. Urwu, hongu, imhando yehupombwe iyo Yves Saint Laurent asina kumbobvira ave nayo, nechishuwo chake chese chekukanganisa zvishoma, asi bourgeois seductiveness yakanyatsoratidzwa mumifananidzo yaHelmut Newton yakakurumbira yevakadzi veYSL ye1970s. Asi uku ndiko kugadzirisa uko Vaccarello inoita kuti SL ive yakakosha nhasi.

Kune iyi imwechete aesthetic niche ye1970s unogona kuwedzera akaumbwa pea jaketi akagadzirwa nedehwe rinopenya, anopfekwa nemakumbo asina chinhu. Uye machira akasungirirwa pamisoro yemamodheru, uye machira makuru ari pasi pawo - sezvakaita Loulou de La Falaise kuma1970, akabatwa pamifananidzo naYves mune imwe kirabhu yehusiku, apo vese vari vaviri, nyeredzi mbiri dzeBohemian Paris, vaive panzvimbo yavo. prime.

Muchokwadi, uyu mufananidzo weiyo yekare runako rwechiFrench uye chiFrench chic cheLes Trente glorieuses ndizvo zviri kufambiswa naVaccarello izvozvi. Uye mutambi mukuru wekunaka kweParisian - angave shamwari dzake Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, waunoitumidza - aive Yves Saint Laurent pachake, aipemberera madhivha akadai, femmes fatale, uye mamwe maitiro echinyakare cheParisian femininity. . Nhasi, Anthony Vaccarello akabudirira kuita chifananidzo ichi chake, achichidzosa kuhupenyu mune iyi yakagadziridzwa uye yemazuva ano vhezheni, achimutsidzira Yves Saint Laurent mune yake inonyanya kuratidza uye yakanakisa-yakatorwa neakakurumbira tsika mifananidzo. Zvakanaka, izvi ndizvo, sekutaura kwaizoitwa neFrench, une très belle collection, très féminine, iyo yaanogona kukorokotedzwa nemoyo wese - akakwanisa shanduko yeYSL kubva kare kusvika kune yazvino tsime.

Chinyorwa: Elena Stafyeva