AKANYORWA NEHDFASHION / Kurume 6TH 2024

Vatasvi vari mudutu: kutanga kwaSeán McGirr kwaAlexander McQueen Autumn-Winter 2024

McGirr akapa muunganidzwa wake wekutanga muchiteshi chechitima chekare kunze kweParis, pazuva rekunaya kwemvura zvakanyanya muParis fashoni vhiki: nekudaro, magumbeze eero yero/girinhi akaiswa pazvigaro zvese kuti vaenzi vadziye. Mumanotsi ake ekuratidzira, mugadziri weIrish akataura kuti aida kuti muunganidzwa wake wekutanga uve “Kupfuma kwakashata. Kuburitsa mhuka mukati”. Backstage, McGirr akatsanangura kuti sezvo yaive yekutanga kubuda kwaAlexander McQueen, uye anonzwa kunge munhu wekunze, aida kutarisa kuunganidzwa kwekutanga kwaLee se "Banshee" (AW94) "Shiri" (SS95) kubva kuma90s, apo. mugadziri akanonoka ainzwa kunge munhu wekunze. “Chandinofarira pazviri ndechekuti zvese zviri nyore, asi zvakamonyoroka zvishoma. Ndezvekugadzira nechero chaunacho. Lee aitora zvinhu zvemhando yepamusoro semabhachi achimonyorora achipwanya nekuona zvinoitika”. Saka pakanga paine zvechokwadi kunzwa kweDIY kuunganidzwa, uye simba reLondon vechidiki. Ehe, McGirr ari pano kuzozunza zvinhu, uye ndizvo zvaakaita! 

Seán McGirr akavhura muunganidzwa wake nerokwe rakamonyaniswa rakamonerwa jezi dema rinoratidza dhirezi remufirimu rine mukurumbira kubva ku "Shiri", modhi yakabatira maoko ake pachipfuva. Manheru ano, zvaive zvese nezve mavara eLondon iwe ausati waziva, asi ungada kusangana. Ipapo, pakanga paine migero yematehwe neheti dzekuferefeta, uye muyero wakanaka wemareferensi aMcQueen - funga majasi ane mhuka dzakadhindwa, mavara esidhi, marose accessories uye ine mukurumbira dehenya motif. Silhouettes dzakatorwa zvakanyanya: mahombe chunky knits ane makora kumusoro kumusoro (hesi, Martin Margiela!) yaive imwe yezvakanakisa zvekuunganidza. Paivawo nedzimwe nzira dzisingatarisirwi dzecouture: minidress ine chandelier yakapwanyika uye tsvuku uye orenji bhasikoro reflexer embroidery, sekunge yakagadzirwa kubva kune zvinhu zvakawanikwa mushure mekuparara kwemotokari. Uye matatu ekupedzisira anotaridzika, madhirezi emotokari, akagadzirwa nesimbi, ane ruvara seyero Ferrari, cobalt bhuruu Aston Martin uye nhema Tesla. McGirr akatsanangura kumashure kuti baba vake ndimakanika, asi hakusi kungonamata kunhengo yemhuri, rwendo rwekudzika munzira yekurangarira: muhuduku hwake vaigara vachikurukura nezvemotokari uye dhizaini yadzo kumba, uye aya ndiwo mawaniro aakaita. kunze anoda kugadzira maumbirwo uye mafomu ekuti ararame.

 

Pave paya manheru ano pamhemberero yaGuido Palau yemutsara wake mutsva wekuchengeta bvudzi raZara ndakayambuka nzira nemhuri yaKaty England (mugadziri aive mumwe weshamwari dzepedyo dzaLee), vese vakaratidza kushamisika. Wese munhu akatitenderedza aitaura nezvekutanga kwaMcGirr achiti zvinoodza moyo. Mazano akawandisa, asi chiono chiripi? Zvingave zvakasiyana here? Zvakadini kana shangu idzi dzakangonyanya kukura kuti dzikwane? Zvakanaka, mhinduro yaMcGirr pakushoropodzwa yakajeka, anotora mashoko aLee McQueen aigara achitaura mushure mekukundikana kwese: "Ndinoda vanhu vavenga zvandinoita pane kusazvipa shit nezvazvo". Uye ndizvo zvinoita kuti uyu mugadziri anokodzera imba yaLee McQueen. 

Muunganidzwa wekutanga waSeán McGirr waAlexander McQueen, wakazadzwa nereferensi kunhaka yemugadziri mukuru uye zvakapfuura zvemutsivi wake, wakamutsa dutu rekufarira, zvese zvakanaka nezvakaipa. Asi zvino ingori mavambo.Hazvisi nyore kuzadza shangu dzemugadziri mukuru. Kunyanya kana munhu ari mubvunzo ari mukuru Lee McQueen, anorumbidzwa nevapepeti, vatengi, vadzidzi uye zvizvarwa zvevanofarira fashoni. Uye kuuya mushure meaimbova director wekugadzira Sarah Burton, mudiwa waLee wekurudyi akachengeta nhaka yake kubva pakufa kwake muna 2010, hazviite kuti kutora kuve nyore. Seán McGirr ane makore makumi matatu nemashanu ekuzvarwa, akaberekerwa muDublin, akabatana neimba inoyevedza mwedzi mishoma yapfuura - asati ashandira Jonathan W. Anderson pazita rake rezita semusoro wekugadzira, asiwo pakubatana kwake nemusika weJapan. hofori Uniqlo. Ane stint paDries Van Noten pane yake kutangazve, zvakare. Zvinoshamisa.

Chinyorwa: LIDIA AGEEVA