AKANYORWA NEHDFASHION / Gumiguru 29TH 2024

Miu Miu Inovhura "Tales & Vatauri" Project paArt Basel Paris

Hazvibviri kukurukura fashoni yemazuva ano pasina kutaura Miu Miu. Tarenda raMiuccia Prada uye maonero ake anofunga, anotaridzika kunze ane pesvedzero yakadzama inoenda kure kure nenzvimbo yemugadziri. Mukadzi wechokwadi wevakadzi uye anoda zvehunyanzvi, akaramba achiongorora vakadzi's anogara nekufarira kwakadzama munharaunda dzetsika.

Muenzaniso wakanaka wekukanganisa kwaMiu Miu kupfuura fashoni ndeye "Nyano dzevakadzi" pfupi firimu chirongwa, yakatangwa muna 2011. Ichi chirongwa chakashanduka chikava chikuva apo vatungamiri vemafirimu vechikadzi vakadai saChloe. Sevigny, Zoe Cassavetes, Dakota Fanning, Isabel Sandoval uye Agnes Varda pakati pevamwe vazhinji, inopa maonero akasiyana pamusoro pezvisina maturo uye kusiyana kwechikadzi. Kubva 2021, chirongwa ichi chakawedzera kuvandudzwa, ne biannual catwalk inoratidza kuva nzvimbo yenhaurirano nevatambi kuburikidza nekuisa uye mifananidzo inofamba. Uye pakupedzisira, tgore rake, mhando yakashanda semubatsiri wepamutemo wechirongwa cheveruzhinji kuArt Basel Paris, achipa chiratidziro chakakosha chine musoro. "Ngano & Vatauri" sechikamu chekubatana. Ichi chirongwa chikuru chakaitwa paPalais d'Iéna, muzinda weFrance Economic, Social, and Environmental Council uye nzvimbo yeMiu Miu's. catwalk inoratidza panguva yeArt Basel vhiki. Iyo purojekiti yaive conceptualsed by interdisciplinary artist Goshka Macuga, who also made the decor for Miu Miu's Chirimo/Zhizha 2025 runway show yakaitwa muna Gumiguru 1. Macuga's Art Basel chirongwa chakaunzwa nerubatsiro rwe Elvira Dyangani Ose, mutungamiriri weBarcelona Museum yeContemporary Art.

Goshka Macuga & Elvira Dyangani Ose Goshka Macuga & Elvira Dyangani Ose

Munzvimbo yakakura, yakavhurika yePalais d'Iéna, makumi matatu neshanu anoshanda ane hukama ne "Women's Tales" purojekiti yakaratidzwa, kusanganisira mavhidhiyo uye zvimedu zvekuisa zvakagadzirwa nevanyori vakabatsira mukuratidzwa kwemigwagwa kubva muChirimo/Zhizha 2022. "NGUVA DZECHOKWADI" kutenderera pabhandi rekutakura zvinhu zvakachengetwa munzvimbo, kunyange zvazvo zvizhinji zvacho zvakazofungwa patsva nokuda kwekuratidzwa. Pamusangano wevatori venhau, Macuga akarondedzera nzvimbo yacho senzvimbo yevoruzhinji, achiifananidza nenzvimbo inoungana vanhu vasingazivi, kana kuti, munhoroondo yeGreece yekare, gora. "Nheyo yedu yaive yekunyatso kudzosa mavara kuhupenyu uye kuvasanganisa muchokwadi zvakare. Nguva dzisina chokwadi uye chokwadi chezviripo, kubatira pamwe, uye kuvapo kwaikosha. Iwe unogona kuva nehukama hwepedyo zvikuru kune mazuva. Uye ndinofunga kuti izvi zvakanaka chaizvo nekuti hazvina kuisirwa kungozviona neimwe nzira. Asi pane zvakasiyana-siyana zviitiko," akatsanangura papepanhau pfupiso.

Mannequin-senge masikirini akarembera kubva mumachira ehembe uye iPads akaiswa mumabhegi ekumashure anopfekwa nevatambi.-hapana nzira mbiri dzaive dzakafanana pakurojesa mabasa aya evhidhiyo. Chidimbu chimwe nechimwe's protagonist aiita seakabuda pachiratidziri, akaiswa munzvimbo semunhu chaiye akapfeka Miu Miu archival zvidimbu. Idzi nyaya, dzakaitwa zvakare nevatambi, dzakadzokororwa mumuviri muzvidimbu, dzichiwedzera zvidimbu kungano dzekutanga kuburikidza nekuratidzwa kwevhidhiyo panguva imwe chete. Hunhu kubva pamuimbi weopera kusvika kumuroyi or mutambi wetsiva airatidza zvakasiyana-siyana maitiro: vamwe vakagara vasingapfakanyiki nekutaura kusina munhu, nepo vamwe vaitenderera munzvimbo yacho sokunge kuti vaiva vamwe vevateereri. Vaiita nhaurirano dzenguva dzose, vachigadzira nganonyorwa dzakadzima mitsetse pakati pechokwadi nenzvimbo chaiyo yevhidhiyo inoshanda. Vataridzi, zvakare, vakava chikamu chenyaya idzi, vakakokwa kuti vabatane zvakasununguka nemabasa nemitambo, vachigadzira nzvimbo yekukurukurirana. "It's an kukudzwa kugadzira nzvimbo umo nguva inonzwa yakarembera, kuyambuka miganhu yemifananidzo, bhaisikopo, uye fashoni, uye kubvumira kusangana kwamashiripiti,” akadaro Macuga.

huru Collonaded horo yakashanda sedanho rekupindira kwehunyanzvi, nepo nzvimbo yekumashure-uko vezvematongerwo enyika vanoita misangano sedzimbahwe reKanzuru Yezvakatipoteredza-yakabata zviitiko zvehurukuro mushoo yese. Hurukuro idzi yakanangana kumativi "Women's Tales"madingindira ezvirongwa akaita sezvisina maturo uye kusiyana-siyana kwechikadzi, nevatungamiriri nevaimbi vari seri kwerunway show's vhidhiyo inoshanda ichitora nhanho kukurukura kwete hunyanzvi hwavo, asi hupenyu hwemunhu nenhoroondo dzakaumba musana webasa ravo.

Somuenzaniso, oMangwanani emusi wa16, chiitiko ichi chakagamuchira vatauri vana: mugadziri wemufirimu wekuArgentina Laura Citarella (akapfura kapfupi. firimu yeMiu Miu gore rino yakadanwa "Nyaya yeMiu Miu"), American director uye screenwriter Ava DuVernay (akashandira Miu Miu kare muna 2013. on bhaisikopo “Door”), mugadziri wezvipfeko wekuAustralia Catherine Martin, uye mugadziri wemafirimu wekuSpain Carla Simón (akatungamira "Tsamba kuna Amai Vangu kuMwanakomana Wangu" muna 2022 yeMiu Miu "Tales dzevakadzi"). Vakapanana maonero panyaya dzakadai sehupenyu, basa, uye kukunda matambudziko, pamwe nezvinangwa nezviroto zvavo, vachiongorora zvakadzama pfungwa ye "nguva isina chokwadi".

Simón akataurawo maonero aiita vamwe achiti: “Ndinofunga kuti chokwadi hachikoshesi pane zvakaitika chaizvo asi kuti pane zvatinosarudza maererano nezvatinotenda. Uye nyaya dzatinoona dzinowanzogadzirwa nevacherechedzi, kwete nevaya vanobatanidzwa zvakananga. Kana tikatora zviroto semuenzaniso, nyaya dzatinoona muzviroto dzinonzwa senge chokwadi chinosefa kuburikidza nezviitiko zvedu, asi hazvisi zvechokwadi kune vamwe. Chokwadi chinoshanda zvakafanana, sezvo zviitiko zvedu zvakasiyana-siyana, zvatinodavira, uye maonero zvinoumba misiyano mukunzwisisa kwedu chokwadi.”

Citarella akavhara nekufungisisa nezvemaitiro ake: "Chandinogara ndichida kuyeuka ndechekuti zvese zvine maitiro, uye maonero ega ega anounza imwe nyaya. Zvinenge zvisingaite kutsanangura zvinhu zvitema nemuchena sechokwadi kana nhema, chakarurama kana chakaipa, uye ndinoda kuyeuka kuti kune magumo emumvuri we gireyi pakati.”

Miuccia Prada's cross-disciplinary approach, sezvinoratidzwa mu "Ngano & Vatauri" kuratidzwa kuArt Basel Paris, inoratidza nzira iyo art inogona kudarika nguva iripo kuti ive inoshandura chiitiko. The "Ngano” muchimiro chemafirimu mapfupi anoburitsa hupenyu hwakaoma, hunofadza, uye hune hupfumi hwevakadzi, zvichipa ruzivo rwezvinofanira kuzivikanwa.skuti tinzwisise nyaya idzi zvechokwadi. Vanotiyeuchidza kuti nesuwo tiri hunhus munhoroondo uye vanoshingaira "Vatauriri" veSosaitinyaya. Kuenderera mberi kwekuongorora kwaMiu Miu kwepfungwa yekushanduka yezvechikadzi kunovaka kubatana nekubatana pakati pevakadzi, zvichigadzira nzira yechitsauko chinotevera murungano urwu.

Kunobva: Miu Miu

Chinyorwa: Elie Inoue