AKANYORWA NEHDFASHION / Kukadzi 29TH 2024

Fendi FW24: Nonchalance pakati peLondon neRome

Kim Jones, mutungamiriri wenyanzvi wecouture uye zvipfeko zvevakadzi, zvishoma nezvishoma asi zvechokwadi kuwana nzira yake nembatya dzevakadzi. Kutanga nekuunganidzwa kwekupedzisira, akawedzera kudhirowa kune kabudura kake kekamera-yeruvara rwengamera uye akadhindwa machira esirika, akachinja iyo pendi yeruvara rwese - uye shanduko idzi dzakagadziridza maitiro ezviunganidzwa zvevakadzi vake, kuvaka patsva ensemble uye kuita kuti ive yakakosha.

Iri basa rakaenderera mberi uye rakaenderera mberi muFendi FW24. Kim Jones anotaura nezve imwe yekurudziro yake yemuunganidzwa uyu: "Ini ndanga ndichitarisa 1984 muFendi zvinyorwa. Mifananidzo yakandiyeuchidza nezveLondon panguva iyoyo: iyo Blitz Kids, iyo New Romantics, kutorwa kwezvipfeko zvebasa, chimiro chevakuru, chimiro cheJapan ..." Zvese zvaakataura zvinoonekwa zviri nyore muFendi FW24: majasi akafukidzwa, akasungwa uye anoyeuchidza nezve. kimonos inodziya yakasviba yechando; Mabhachi eVictorian akasungirirwa muchiuno, ane collar yakavharika yakakwirira uye mapendekete akafara akafuratira akagadzirwa newool gabardine, ane tirauzi rakatwasuka, siketi yemutsara yakagadzirwa nedehwe gobvu rakakwenenzverwa; turtleneck majuzi akaputirwa pamapfudzi; jira rakagadzirwa mune dusky hues.

 

 

 

 

 

Imwe bviro yekufemerwa iyi inoshanduka kuve yakapesana zvachose. "Yakanga iri nguva apo maBritish subcultures uye masitaera zvakave zvepasirese uye zvakatora pesvedzero yepasirese. Asi zvakadaro nekunaka kweBritish mukusununguka uye kusapa dhiri zvinofungwa nemumwe munhu, chimwe chinhu chinopindirana nemaitiro echiRoma. Fendi ine kumashure mune zvekushandisa. Uye mapfekero emhuri yeFendi, ane ziso pane izvo. Ndinoyeuka pandakatanga kusangana naSilvia Venturini Fendi, akanga akapfeka chic chic utilitarian sutu - inenge yeSafari suit. Izvo zvakaumba maonero angu ekuti Fendi chii: mapfekero emukadzi ane chimwe chinhu chakakosha kuita. Uye anogona kunakidzwa achizviita,” vanoenderera mberi VaJones. Uye izvi zvinoita sekunge zvichinyanya kunakidza uye zvisingaonekwe: Roma neLondon vanobatana sei mune iyi yakagadziridzwa Kim Jones nzira? Zviripachena, Roma inopinda mupfungwa paunoona organza inoyerera inotarisa nechinyorwa chinoratidza misoro yemarble uye zvidhori zveMadonnas (imwe, inoratidzika, ndeyechokwadi Michelangelo's akakurumbira Pieta kubva kuSan Pietro cathedral), mabheji madenderedzwa pane mamwe sirika anotaridzika; turtlenecks matete ane kutevedzera akaturikidzana, crisp shirts chena eRoma segnora, macheni mahombe, uye isina kunaka yekuItaly dehwe rinoshandiswa bhachi nejasi. Chii chinosunga zvese izvi zvikamu mumubatanidzwa wakabatana uye wakabatanidzwa webasa raJones kuFendi? Chokutanga pane zvose, mavara: panguva ino akaisa pamwe chete yakakwana yerima grey, khaki, rima regungwa rakasvibirira, burgundy, yakadzika mashava, beetroot, uye taupe. Uye zvese izvi zvakasonanidzwa uye zvakabatanidzwa nepfarivari dzeyero inopenya Fendi.

Mhedzisiro yacho yaive yakaomesesa, asi yakanakisa uye yakaomesesa muunganidzwa, umo iyi yese-yakawanda-yakawanda uye kuomarara kwedhizaini isingachaite seyakamanikidzika, asi inorova imwe seinonakidza uye ine dhizaini inogoneka inogona kuvandudzwa uye kuiswa munzvimbo dzakasiyana. . Zvinoita sekuti munguva pfupi hurefu uhwu huchacheneswa: Kim Jones semugadziri wembatya dzechikadzi achakwanisa kuve asina simba, hunyanzvi, uye akasununguka sezvaari semugadziri wembatya dzechirume.


 

 

Chinyorwa: Elena Stafyeva