Celine Menswear Autumn-Winter 2024/25: Hedi Slimane's Fantastic Symphony

Pakutanga svondo rino, Celine akadonhedza muunganidzwa wemwaka unouya weChando, naHedi Slimane zvakare achisarudza vhidhiyo paYouTube kwete maitirwo chaiwo eParis Fashion Week uye inonzwika nemimhanzi yechinyakare panzvimbo peyakajairwa neo-rock yemugadziri.

Mimhanzi iri kutaurwa? Hector Berlioz 'Symphonie Fantastique, uyo, maererano nedhipatimendi raCeline's PR, Slimane akatanga kuwana paakanga achangosvitsa makore gumi nerimwe.

Munyori, uyo akanyora chidimbu muna 1830 paakanga ava nemakore makumi maviri nematanhatu - achitarisira kuti zvaizomubatsira kunyengedza mutambi weBritish - akarondedzera se "yakakura yezvigadzirwa zvemhando itsva."

Mushure mekuita kwayo kwekutanga paruzhinji, vatsoropodzi vakashamiswa nemazuva ano emimhanzi, mumwe muongorori achimutsa "kushamisika kusingafungidzikike kwaungafungidzira". Uye muna 1969, conductor Leonard Bernstein akatsanangura Symphonie Fantastique se "yekutanga psychedelic symphony munhoroondo, rondedzero yekutanga yemimhanzi yakamboitwa yerwendo, yakanyorwa zana nemakumi matatu emakore asinganzwisisike pamberi peBeatles."

Pane kungogutsurira kushoma kwe psychedelia muvhidhiyo nyowani yaSlimane, kunyangwe mashoma emamodheru aine kakufanana nerekupedzisira 1960s California rock star Don Van Vliet, aka Captain Beefheart, aigara achitorwa mifananidzo mumazuva ake ehupenyu akapfeka heti yestovepipe.

Uye zvimwe zviratidziro sezviri pachena zvakatorwa munhoroondo yeTroubadour Club muWest Hollywood, iyo munhoroondo yayo yese yaiitirwa mitambo nevanhu uye ngano dzedombo dzakapfava dzakaita saJackson Browne, the Eagles, uye maByrds, pamwe nemapunk uye mawive mawave icons nemaheadbangers anosanganisira Mötley. Crüe naGuns'n'Roses, avo vakatanga kutamba ipapo.

Vhidhiyo inovhura nenomwe nhema helikopta, imwe neimwe iine chena Celine logo, ichibhururuka yakadzika pamusoro pegwenga reMojave. Jukebox rine zita reCeline rinorembera kubva kune imwe yeherikoputa uye rinosiiwa pakati nepakati, patara yemugwagwa wakarasika.

Isu tinowana zvidiki zvisinganzwisisiki zveiyo setlist pane jukebox. Pane Jimmie Hodges naShania Twain, Johnny Maestro naFats Domino, pamwe neSymphonie Fantastique ambotaurwa, rwiyo rwevhidhiyo.

Mugwagwa mukuru wemugwenga unopetwa senzira yekufambisa yemhando dzeSlimane, akapfeka zvakanyanya nhema, kunyangwe mamwe majasi egoridhe kana esirivha anopenya ari mukupedzisira, sezvavanowanzo kuita muunganidzwa weCeline. Mifananidzo yeCatwalk yakasanganiswa nemifananidzo yemukomana wemombe achiri kuyaruka akatasva bhiza rake uye mudungwe unononoka wemaCadllacs mashanu matema ane Celine rezinesi mahwendefa.

Symphonie Fantastique anoona kudzoka kwerudzi rwekusendamira uko Slimane akavakira basa rake paari, aine silhouette inorerekera kuma1960 nezana ramakore rechi 19 - dzakasimba, dzakachekwa masutu emabhatani matatu, majasi efrock uye mabhachi akarukwa nemaoko, mune akakosha. machira anosanganisira sirika, cashmere, satin uye vicuna wool, akashongedzerwa nehuta, bhutsu, uye heti dzemuparidzi dzakafara-fara dzisingataridzike panzvimbo paNick Cave kana Neil Young mune bhaisikopo raJim Jarmusch, kana Johnny Depp muDior. perfume ad.

Asi zvese mune zvese, iyo esthetic inoramba iri quintessential Slimane, yakaenzana zvikamu Parisian bourgeois uye Velvet Underground dehwe.

Vhidhiyo inopera nejukebox richibata moto, uye mimhanzi ichinyarara: THE END.

Tinofanira kuona "Symphonie Fantastique" sekuonekana kwaSlimane kuna Celine?

Makuhwa emugadziri kusiya mhando kwave kuenderera, uye Chanel anowanzo kupihwa zita senge inobvira yekuenda. Sezvineiwo, kana kuti kwete, pazuva rimwe chete iro vhidhiyo yeCeline yakaburitswa, Chanel akataura nezvekukwira kwemari ne16%, achirumbidza director director Virginie Viard - "vhoti yekuvimba" mugadziri, sekureva. WWD.

Saka acharamba here kana kuti achaenda?

Kutendeseka: Celine

Chinyorwa: Jesse Brouns