Celine: Hedi Slimane's Vakapenya Vechidiki

Pakupera kwesvondo rapfuura, Celine akatarisisa yayo Schirimo-Zhizha 20makumi maviri neshanu muunganidzwa wezvipfeko zvevarume, naHedi Slimane zvakare achisarudza vhidhiyo yeYouTube pane chaiyo catwalk show, uye zvakare yakanzwika ine classical mamakisi pane indie rock.

Mwedzi mishoma yapfuura, in vhidhiyo yake yemwaka uripo, Slimane akadhirowa mugwenga reMojave uye kune ane mukurumbira Troubadour Club muWest Hollywood. Panguva ino, akasarudza kuti a kasitoro, nenzvimbo dzayo dzakakura, mumaruwa echiRungu.

Farewell, vechidiki vemombe vakapfeka dehwe dema - uye mhoro, chepamusoro-kirasi pwere mukiriketi chena woollens uye mablazer ekukwasva.

NEI “VAKURU”?

ne "The Bright Young", Slimane akadzokera kumazuva ake emudzidzi paEcole du Louvre, kwaakambonyora chinyorwa pamusoro pezvakabva kuAnglomania, chido cheFrench cheChirungu chimiro, chinodzokera kumashure eVersailles. Mugadziri akasanganisa mune mashoma emagamba ake, senge eccentric Chirungu dandy Stephen Tennant (1906-1987), aive ane hukama nemuenzaniso Stella Tennant.

Mune zvinyorwa zvenhau, Slimane aisanganisira quote kubva kumunyori Evelyn Waugh's Miviri Yakashata: "Iwe hausi kunzwa zvakawanda nezvetariro mazuva ano, handiti?... Vakanganwa nezvetariro, kunongova nehuipi humwe hukuru munyika nhasi. Kupererwa."

Miviri Yakashata, Novhero yechipiri yaWaugh - yakabudiswa muna 1930 - iri parody yeBright Young Things, boka revaBohemian, vanowanzoita zvepabonde vechidiki vechidiki uye vesocialites muna 1920s London, iyo Stephen Tennant aiva nhengo. Waugh aizoenderera mberi nekunyora Brideshead Yakadzokororwa, iyo, makumi emakore gare gare, yakashandurwa kuva nhevedzano yeterevhizheni ine mukurumbira uye ine simba.

Iyo 1981 yakatevedzana yakakurudzira iyo New Romantics kufamba muBritish fashoni nemimhanzi yepop (kusanganisira Visage uye yekutanga Duran Duran) panguva iyoyo uye yakatungamira kumafirimu anosanganisira. Imwe Nyika uye Maurice, uye pakupedzisira, Saltburn.

"The Bright Young" ine zvinhu zvezvose izvi. Iyo ingangove imwe yemafirimu ehomoerotic Slimane akagadzirira Celine.

CHII CHIRI MUKATI PAMUKORO?

Uyu muunganidzwa wepamusoro-soro, une canvas-yakagadzirwa kusona yakagadzirwa kubva kuma1920s Zhizha. cashmere nemvere dzemakwai, dzakarukwazve kwaCeline. Sutu dzakapfekwa newaistcoats mudamask, kana kuti dzakashongedzwa nemaoko muna 1920s motifs eChirungu maruva emunda. Mabhachi akachekwa uye mablazer ekukwasva anogadzirwa necashmere flannel. Mamwe mabhachi ekukwasva anoratidza akamendwa zvidimbu zvetrompe l'oeil couture, akagadzirwa nemaoko muzvitoro zvemhando. Zvimwe zvezvimedu zvinouya ne heraldic-style zvigamba mune chii chiratidzo inotsanangura se "sirivha yakakwenenzverwa cannetiles kukoira", kudhindwa kwemaitiro ekushongedza anoshandiswa mukati ari mangwanani 20th century yunifomu yechiuto tsika. Shangu - richelieus, mamongi uye tapered derbies - kureva maBritish mapfekero masitaera kubva panguva imwe chete.

Asi haasi ose mareferensi eBritish: maererano nezvinyorwa zvepepanhau, Slimane akatarisa mifananidzo yemunyori weAmerica F. Scott Fitzgerald paakashanyira Hotel Eden Roc muAntibes muna 1922 paakagadzira machena eSummer cashmere flannels.

Vhidhiyo iyi yakatorwa munaJune apfuura, kuHolham Hall, muNorfolk. Ruzha rwakachekwa kubva kuna Jean-Philippe Rameau's Les Indes Galntes, yakanyorwa muna 1736 ye ballet paTheatre du Palais-Royal. Icho chidimbu chakarasika kwemakore anopfuura zana nemakumi mashanu, uye chakawanikwa zvakare muna 150, pachakaitirwa kuVersailles pamberi paMambokadzi weEngland, pakushanya kwepamutemo kuFrance.

UNOGONA KUNWEWAWO

"The Bright Young" inosumawo kunhuhwirira kutsva kuunganidzwa waCeline haute parfumerie. A Rebours, ane manotsi emuouki moss, misidhari, nutmeg, coumarin uye cashmeran, anogovera zita neiyo 1884 novel raJoris-Karl Huysmans - akafunga hunyanzvi hwemabhuku akaora.

CHII CHINOTENDA?

Saka, iyi yaive muunganidzwa wekupedzisira waHedi Slimane kuna Celine? Runyerekupe yemugadziri anosiya mhando anga achienderera kwerinenge gore ikozvino, uye Chanel anowanzo kutumidzwa seinobvira inotevera kuenda. Hapasati pave nezviziviso zvitsva kusvika parizvino. Slimane, anga ari kuSaint Laurent, Dior, uye adzoka kuSaint Laurent pamberi paCeline, agara achitora nguva yake, kusanganisira mazororo akati wandei kubva pakugadzira fashoni, kuti atarise pakutora mifananidzo kwake. Tichifunga nezvemafirimu emafashoni eCeline, panogona kunge paine bhaisikopo rinotevera?

Kutendeseka: Celine

Chinyorwa: Chikwata chevapepeti