Like a theatre of dreamlike illusions, the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2025/26 Ready-to-Wear collection, presented by the Creation Studio, plays with size, length, and proportion. Beneath the glass roof of the Grand Palais, scenographer Willo Perron's installation dances over the floor and soars into the air. His monumental black ribbon, 368 meters long and approximately 20 meters high, serves as a striking backdrop.
The collection leans into familiar references while altering perceptions.
A mini jacket in blue, white, and pink tweed is paired with long trousers. A large poplin shirt extends to the ankles, a short black tweed jacket with braid trim resembles a long coatdress with jewelled buttons, and a cape finishes with jacket cuffs.
The collection revisits some of the most cherished House signatures, including the bow, ribbon, pearl, and flower. Bows feature prominently across various sizes, adorning the collars and cuffs of blouses and dresses, and accumulating on necklaces down to the ankles of a sophisticated black down jacket and sweatpants ensemble. A long white knitted ribbon elegantly wraps around a black sweater, culminating in a large bow on the shoulder. Other voluminous or openwork bows accentuate dresses, cardigans, and sweaters. Heels are crafted from a single pearl, while a cross-body bag creates the impression of an oversized pearl necklace. Additionally, a set of jewelry is embellished with maximalist rhinestones, where spirited illusions of scale dominate the collection.
The collection incorporates layering to enhance trompe l’oeil effects. One set in grenadine tweed includes a micro-jacket lined with bright red silk, a wrap skirt, and flared trousers. Another set in bronze hues features a tunic and trousers with a buttoned-over skirt. A third set consists of a sleeveless blouson gilet and a long ivory slit skirt topped with a miniskirt.
A suit in champagne, black, or white tweed is complemented by a flounced cape in black or white illusion tulle. In one example, a blouse and skirt in black tulle are worn over an ecru trouser suit. In another, a long shirt with puffed sleeves in white tulle covers an ecru jacket-dress. The transparency creates superimposed silhouette lines that produce movement.
Delicate elements are introduced through chiffon jeans, silk resembling tweed, and ribbon motifs printed to appear as if floating in the wind. Additionally, there is a hooded parka made of black organza adorned with bows. Femininity is highlighted by sock-ankle boots and a satin bouillonnérunning along the vamp of a pair of shoes.
Removable ruff-collars that resemble corollas, black wool lace trench coats with enhanced faux fur, and black sweaters featuring 3D white petal plastrons add a poetic touch to the collection.
Drawing inspiration from fairytales, the Fall-Winter 2025/26 Ready-to-Wear collection showcases mastery and imagination while elevating the House codes.
Courtesy: Copyright CHANEL
Text: AN