Saint Laurent’s FW25 Collection: Bold, Colors and Confident

Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent closed the final night of Paris Fashion Week with a show that emphasized precise tailoring and innovative textures.

Presented under the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, the Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection remained faithful to the house’s tradition of clean lines and refined minimalism. Who would have expected 90s haute couture to be this captivating?

Exploring the spectrum of white light, the 45 looks in the collection featured even more volume and color than before, resembling strikingly contrasted paintings. With pants and bags removed from the collection, the focus shifted to structured silhouettes and the fluidity of richly textured fabrics. Stretch materials were skillfully combined with guipure to create a novel tactile experience, while traditional couture fabrics underwent distressing treatments to achieve a worn-in aesthetic. Silk dresses adorned with iconic animal and floral motifs were coated in silicone, appearing both nostalgic and futuristic—creations that transcend time.

The silhouettes gradually softened from the shoulders to the hem, forming an inverted triangular shape that seemed almost on the verge of flipping over. This pyramid-like structure was intentionally disrupted in every look through colorful leather belts, tucked-in shirts, and skirts that accentuated the waist.

The rhythmic color palette―shifting from coral orange to fuchsia pink, fir green to emerald blue, and electric blue to amethyst purple―evoked the signature Yves Saint Laurent aesthetic of the 1980s and 90s. A striking trio of looks worn by Bella Hadid―a delicate deep blue dress, a yellow leather dress, and a red lace dress―inevitably called to mind the iconic colors of Mondrian.

The show opened with an orange turtleneck dress cinched at the waist with a purple ribbon, setting the stage with vibrant summer hues. As the second chapter unfolded, the palette transitioned into autumnal shades―ranging from beige to mustard yellow and hazel brown―centered around monochrome silhouettes. Amidst a rebellious attitude, the collection conveyed warmth and comfort.

Pointed stiletto heels adorned with satin square roses, jewelry crafted from rock crystal, and oversized sunglasses added a luxurious touch to the minimalist ensembles, seamlessly integrating into the collection’s narrative.

In the final chapter, a new silhouette emerged with floor-length ball gowns grazing the ground. The balloon skirts featured a drop-waist design, expanding from the hips rather than the waist, while the tops varied from lace-trimmed babydoll styles to casual turtlenecks, blurring the lines between the everyday and the extraordinary. With a cool gesture―hands tucked into the pockets of Saint Laurent’s signature oversized leather blouson―she effortlessly balanced the sweetness of the gowns, embodying a vision of femininity that only Saint Laurent can create. She is bold, confident, dynamic, and modern―a woman who commands attention in everything she wears.

Courtesy: Saint Laurent

Text: Elie Inoue