Pharrell & NIGO Share History in Streetwear and Subcultural Roots for Louis Vuitton

There's nothing more enjoyable than bonding over inside jokes, but for outsiders, it can be an incredibly uncomfortable experience. Fans who understand the inside references are likely ecstatic about the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2025 Men's Collection, a collaboration between Pharrell Williams and NIGO. The show, held on the opening day of Paris Men's Fashion Week, saw their close circle gather in full force, creating anatmosphere.

The connection between the two dates back about 25 years. Pharrell and NIGO hit it off during Pharrell's first trip to Japan. In 2003, they co-founded BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB and ICECREAM, and the following year, at the invitation of Marc Jacobs, who was then the Women's Creative Director of Louis Vuitton, they created the "1.0 Millionaire" sunglasses. Since then, the duo has collaborated on numerous projects, each time creating a sensation. It seems only natural that Pharrell, upon becoming Louis Vuitton's Men's Creative Director, chose NIGO as his first collaboration partner in this new role.

The temporary venue set up at the Cour Carrée du Louvre welcomed guests with a spectacular set designed by Wonderwall, led by renowned interior designer Masamichi Katayama. The circular runway, symbolizing "eternal friendship," was bathed in a soft sakura pink hue. The show opened with a performance by the Pont Neuf Orchestra, playing One-Winged Angel from Final Fantasy VII. This season, Japan, NIGO’s homeland, played a significant role in Pharrell’s creations. Utilizing Japanese motifs and techniques such as sakura (cherry blossoms), sashiko stitching, and shippo weaving, the duo reinterpreted their streetwear roots into a luxurious expression befitting the Maison.

The foundation of the collection is rooted in the silhouettes of the early 2000s, when the two first met. The tailoring incorporates elements of workwear and sportswear, blending classic materials and craftsmanship with a casual edge, as seen in bomber jackets, track jackets, and hoodies paired with suits to expand the versatility of styling. Throughout the collection, references to Japanese clothing are skillfully woven in. For instance, a rider jacket features a kimono-inspired front panel, while understated workwear-style setups draw inspiration from Japanese artisans. Additionally, indigo-dyed boro fabrics are used to depict oriental motifs reminiscent of landscape paintings.

The pants paired with these pieces feature baggy or bell-bottom silhouettes, hallmarks of both Williams and NIGO's signature styles, which define this season's aesthetic. Even so, the duo has honed their sense of sophistication over the span of more than 20 years. Alternatively, it could be said that NIGO's Japanese-inspired minimalist aesthetic neutralized Pharrell's penchant for ornamentation. While it can't quite be described as "quiet luxury," the collection is more restrained compared to last season, which heavily emphasized bold colors, embellishments, and ultra-luxurious materials such as exotic leathers. Instead, this season showcases iconic motifs with a fresh twist, embellishing denim, knitwear, leather, and tailored pieces in dazzling ways.

Standout examples include the "Dandy Damier," inspired by textiles used in Japanese tea ceremonies, and the "Cherry Blossom Damouflage," a fusion of Pharrell's new iconic "Damouflage" pattern with sakura motifs.The designs were eye-catching, yet NIGO's "subtractive" approach maintained a well-balanced aesthetic without being overly imposing.

The collection as a whole expressed a deep respect for Japanese tradition and aesthetics. This was embodied not only in the apparel but also in the accessories.
The iconic "Speedy" bag welcomed three new colors: Yuzu yellow, Sencha green, and cherry blossom pink. Additionally, a version dyed in traditional Japanese indigo and a collector's special design featuring a white monogram on gold, reminiscent of the Kintsugi technique, were unveiled to great enthusiasm.

As the finale unfolded, the previously concealed smoked glass of 24 display cases gradually cleared, revealing their contents. Inside were items from the collections of the Maison, Pharrell, and NIGO, as well as pieces lent by private collectors. Guests were given the opportunity to view the archives that inspired this season's collection. This glimpse into their shared history underscored that the 84 looks of the season were more than just a collaboration—they were a priceless testament to true friendship. With Louis Vuitton's logo and craftsmanship added to these creations, the price tags are undoubtedly substantial. Yet, for those who understand the "inside story," this collection is an irresistibly desirable treasure.

Courtesy: Louis Vuitton

Text: Elie Inoue