Olivier’s dilemma: What is going on at Balmain?

As rumours surge about Virginie Viard’s successor at Chanel, one French name is on top of the list, Olivier Rousteing. Just two weeks ahead of his menswear show during Paris Fashion Week, the Balmain creative director decided to call it off, the Spring-Summer 2025 collection will be presented in September during the womenswear season instead. According to the official statement, it’s due to the new CEO of the brand Matteo Sgarbossa, who arrived one month ago. Is it just a coincidence? What’s really going on?

Often compared to Lagerfeld for his witty approach to fashion and the iconic status of an industry mascot, Olivier Rousteing has been heading Balmain’s creative studio since 2011. Under his tenure, Balmain turned from a forgotten storied house to one of the hottest names on the Parisian scene, dressing A-list celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, Beyoncé, Selena Gomez and Taylor Swift (all of them are friends with Rousteing). And let’s not forget the successful H&M x Balmain collaboration, which despite quite high prices (600€ for an embroidered jacket, 550€ for a dress) was sold out within a few minutes back in 2015. His energy, his instinct for what is cool now and his experience in working for a classic French house, make Olivier Rousteing a perfect fit for Chanel, keeping us guessing if Chanel managers are ready for a total makeover. Viard’s successor is supposed to be announced shortly - most probably after her very last collection is presented at Paris Haute Couture Week on June 25.

Courtesy: Balmain

Text: Lidia Ageeva