Chotsatira cha Glenn Martens ndi Y/Project ndi chiyani?

Zowona: Lachisanu lapitalo, wojambula Glenn Martens adalengeza kuti akuchoka Y/Project, chizindikiro chomwe wakhala akugwira ntchito kuyambira 2013. Miyezi ingapo yapitayo, mwiniwake ndi woyambitsa mnzake Gilles Elalouf, anamwalira, akusiya mbali zake mu bizinesi kwa mbale wake.

Nyengo yatha, mtunduwo udayimitsa chiwonetsero chake cha Paris Fashion Week mphindi yomaliza (yovomerezeka mpaka "kuganizira ndalama zamkati"; zosonkhanitsira pomalizira pake zidavumbulutsidwa mu bukhu loyang'ana lomwe linali ndi abwenzi ndi achibale monga zitsanzo), ndipo siziwonetsa mwezi uno, mwina. Imalumikizana Ludovic de Saint Sernin, yemwe adatulutsanso kalendala ya PFW, mosayembekezereka, ndi zopangidwa kuphatikizapo Lanvin, Givenchy ndi Tom Ford, omwe akukonzekera otsogolera aluso atsopano a nyengo yotsatira. Zomwe zidzachitike ku Y / Project, zikuwonekerabe.

Martens, panthawiyi, akupitiriza kutsogolera mtundu wa jeans wa ku Italy dizilo, komwe wakhala director director kuyambira Okutobala 2020, ndi chiwonetsero ku Milan masana pa Seputembara 21.st. Amayembekezeredwanso kuti agwire ntchito yokonza mapulani, makamaka m'nyumba yapamwamba, nthawi ina posachedwa kapena mtsogolo.

"MUNTHU AMAPANGA ZOVALA, OSATI ZINTHU ZINTHU ZINA"

Y/Project idakhazikitsidwa ngati chilembo cha amuna omwe angoyamba kumene mu 2010, ndi wopanga Yohan Serfaty (motero Y mu Y/Project).

Serfaty atamwalira momvetsa chisoni mchaka cha 2013, Martens adatenga udindo, ndikukhazikitsa mawu ndi masomphenya ake pang'onopang'ono, ndikukulitsa zovala zachikazi, zomwe posakhalitsa zidakhala. a gawo lalikulu la bizinesi. Y/Project posakhalitsa idakhala yamphamvu komanso yamalonda bwino, ndipo mawonekedwe ake anali pakati pa zomwe zikuyembekezeredwa kwambiri pa kalendala ya Paris Fashion Week. Martens adalandira mphotho ya ANDAM mu 2017.

Wopanga waku Belgian, wochokera ku Bruges, adaphunzira ku Antwerp's Royal Academy ndipo, monga Martin Margiela asanabadwe, adayambitsa ntchito yake ku Paris. Jean Paul Gaultier. Anafunsira ma brand ngati Sabata ndi bwana, ndipo anali ndi wake, mzere wodziwika bwino kwa nyengo zonse za 3 asanayambe ntchito ya Y/Project.

"Ndikuganiza kuti ndikofunikira kuti zovala zathu ziziwonetsa umunthu wathu komanso kudzikonda," adatero Martens mu Januware 2019, pomwe Y/Project idawonetsa ku Pitti ku Florence. “Lingaliro ndi lakuti munthuyo amapanga zovalazo, osati mosiyana. Kwenikweni, zonse zidapangidwa kuti zizivala amuna ndi akazi. Ndipo amatha kuyang'ana onse aamuna komanso achikazi kwambiri. Sitikufuna kupanga gulu lankhondo la anthu ofanana.

"Ndife chizindikiro chamalingaliro," adapitilizabe. “Ngakhale t-sheti yathu yosavuta kwambiri imakhala ndi zopindika. Sitipanga ma blazer kapena mathalauza. Zovala zam'misewu zili ndi malo mumafashoni. Koma zomwe sindikumvetsa ndi majuzi okhala ndi logo yomwe imawononga ma euro 800. Kwa ine, zimenezo si zapamwamba, ndipo si zimene ine ndimafuna kuchita. Ndikuganiza kuti uyenera kusamala makasitomala ako. "

N'CHIYANI CHOTSATIRA?

Chotsatira cha Glenn Martens ndi chiyani? Pakalipano, akadali wotsogolera wopanga zovala za jeans za ku Italy za Diesel, zomwe pansi pa utsogoleri wake zakhala zofunikira kachiwiri, patatha zaka zambiri mu mafashoni. Wakonzanso masitolo, adatsegula ziwonetsero za Milan Fashion Week kwa anthu pamlingo womwe sunachitikepo, ndipo watenga bizinesi yonunkhiritsa, yomwe ili ndi chilolezo ku L'Oréal, kupita njira yatsopano, yosiyana siyana.

Maonekedwe a mafashoni akusinthidwa bwino masiku ano, ndipo ngakhale onse awiri Tom Ford ndi Givenchyadasankha okonza atsopano m'masiku asanu ndi awiri apitawa, pali ntchito aplenty, pa zopangidwa kuphatikizapo Dries van noten ndi Tchanelo.

Kodi Martens adzapita Maison Margiela, kuti John Galliano akuti akupita kuti? The mphekesera amalimbikira. Ndipo inde, Martens ndi Margiela onse ndi aku Belgian, ndipo mayina awo amayamba ndi zilembo zitatu zomwezo. Maison Margiela ndi a OTB, omwe ndi gulu la Renzo Rosso, komanso ndi wamalonda kumbuyo kwa Diesel. Martens, monga Margiela patsogolo pake, ndi wojambula wotchuka kwambiri wa avant-garde, yemwe ali ndi masomphenya omwe alowa mwa anthu ambiri. Koma kachiwiri, ntchito yapamwamba ku Margiela ikhoza kukhala mphatso yapoizoni. Galliano wachita ngati nkhandwe mu zovala zankhosa, akukankhira cholowa cha Margiela pambali kuti ayang'ane pa chinthu chake, ndikuchepetsa Margiela kukhala logo (zigawo zinayi), nsapato za tabi, ndi malaya oyera a labu kwa ogwira ntchito. Ndiyeno pali Demna, yemwe wakhala akuchita bwino kwambiri, poyamba zovalandiyeno pa Balenciaga, ndi kalembedwe, ndi masomphenya, zomwe zinabweretsa ena a malingaliro a Margiela kwa 21st Zaka zana. Kukhazikitsanso Margiela, m'nyengo yamakono, kudzakhala kovuta.

“Margiela ndi njira yolingalira,” Martens analingalira zaka zonsezi zapitazo ku Florence. “Ndine m’badwo umene unakulirakulira limodzi ndi Margiela, choncho si zachilendo kuti titchule ntchito yake. Pali a kugwirizana, zomwe sizikutanthauza kuti timangotengera kapena kumata zimene wachita.”

Martens ndi mlengi wa nyenyezi; ali ndi udindo wosamalira Margiela - koma kodi akufunadi kutero?

Mwachilolezo: Tsamba lovomerezeka la Y/Project 

Mawu: Gulu lolemba