YOCHITIKA NDI HDFASHION / Marichi 13TH 2024

Lowani mnyumba: Loewe Autumn-Winter 2024 lolemba Jonathan W. Anderson

Kwa nthawi yophukira-yozizira 2024, Jonathan W. Anderson amapereka ulemu ku ntchito za Albert York, kutembenuza malo owonetserako kukhala nyumba yamba yaku Britain ndikukondwerera nthawi yomwe ali ndi moyo.

Loewe ndi nyumba yamagetsi yachikopa, kotero zosonkhanitsirazo zidaphatikizanso mabulawuzi a nappa, chovala chaubweya chofewa komanso ma jekete aaviator achikopa. Zosonkhanitsazo zinali ndi mtundu wokonzedwanso wa chikwama cha Squeeze chogulitsidwa kwambiri. Kusewera komanso molimba mtima, chowonjezera chachipembedzocho chinapangidwa mwaluso, chokongoletsedwa ndi mbalame zakumwamba kapena galu, zokongoletsedwa ndi mikanda yaying'ono.

Jonathan W. Anderson amakonda kusewera ndi lingaliro la jenda, motero kuchuluka kwa ma jekete osuta owonjezera aatali kapena malaya amchira, mathalauza otayirira ndi ma pajamas. Backstage adawona kuti Prince Harry ndi amodzi mwa omwe adamulimbikitsa, komanso momwe amafunikira kuvala nthawi zonse m'makalasi ake akusukulu yogonera. Palibe amene amavala mawonekedwe ofanana, mulimonse, kupatula mamembala a banja lachifumu, kotero zinali zovuta kuti zigwire ntchito mumayendedwe atsopano. Chabwino, zoyipa zidatha, zidutswazo zidawoneka mopanda nyonga Loewe.

Aliyense amadziwa kuti Jonathan W. Anderson ali ndi chidwi ndi zaluso. Kotero zinali zachibadwa kwa iye kusintha malo ake owonetsera pa Esplanade Saint Louis, m'bwalo la Château de Vincennes, kukhala malo owonetserako zojambulajambula a Albert York ang'onoang'ono khumi ndi asanu ndi atatu koma akujambula mafuta kwambiri. Wojambula waku America adadziwika chifukwa chazithunzi zake zowoneka bwino komanso zamaluwa zomwe zidakali moyo (Jackie Kennedy Onnasis anali m'modzi mwa mafani ake akulu), ndipo, chodabwitsa, ndiwonetsero wake woyamba komanso wokulirapo ku Continental Europe. Anderson nayenso anagwira mawu wojambula wotchuka m’zolemba zake zawonetsero, amene nthaŵi ina ananena motchuka kuti: “Tikukhala m’paradaiso. Uwu ndi Munda wa Edeni. Zoonadi. Zili choncho. Akhoza kukhala paradaiso yekhayo amene tidzamudziwe”. Choncho, tiyenera kukondwerera moyo malinga ngati tili ndi mwayi wokhala ndi moyo, ndipo zovala ziyenera kutithandiza kusangalala ndi kupezeka, kukhalapo panthawiyo.

Monga ngati kuitanidwa kukachezera nyumba yapayekha, chiwonetserocho chinali ndi maumboni ambiri apanyumba. Zovala zamaluwa ndi masamba zochokera m'chipinda chojambulira cha ku Britain chakhala chifaniziro pa mikanjo, malaya kapena thalauza. Galu wokondedwayo adawonekera mu kavalidwe kakang'ono ka A-line (timikanda tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tinkapangidwa kuti tifanane ndi caviar. Panalinso zowoneka zamphamvu: madiresi okhala ndi mawonekedwe otsanzira chikopa cha nthiwatiwa chomwe chimawoneka ngati chikopa chenicheni. Zina za trompe l'oeil zinaphatikizapo tartani: macheke amasungunuka mu mille-feuilles sliced ​​​​chiffon, kupeza zinthu zina za 3D, ndipo makola a malaya anali okongoletsedwa ndi zomwe zinkawoneka ngati ubweya, koma kwenikweni zinali zojambula zamatabwa. Ngakhale zingwe zazikulu, zomwe nthawi zambiri zimagwira ntchito, zinkakhala ngati zokongoletsera zokopa maso pa zovala zamadzulo zokhala ndi mabala okopa, komanso pamwamba pa suede. Kuposa chowonjezera chosavuta, koma ntchito yaluso.

 

Zolemba: LIDIA AGEEVA