Saint Laurent FW24: kukweza cholowa

Sipangakhale kukayikira kuti kupambana kwakukulu kwa Anthony Vaccarello kwakhala kuthekera kwake kuzindikira ndikusintha cholowa cha Yves Saint Laurent, komanso kuphatikiza kotsimikizika kwa masilhouette akulu a YSL mu SL yamakono. Sizinachitike nthawi yomweyo ndipo zinamutengera zaka zingapo, koma tsopano, ndi nyengo yatsopano iliyonse, kutengeka kwake kumawoneka kokhutiritsa kwambiri pokhudzana ndi ma volumes ndi ma silhouettes, komanso zipangizo ndi zojambula.

Choyamba, tiyeni tikambirane za mavoliyumu. Zaka zingapo zapitazo, Vaccarello adawonetsa koyamba ma jekete owongoka okhala ndi mapewa otakata komanso olimba, ochokera kwa omwe Yves Saint Laurent adapanga koyambirira kwa 1980s, kanali kulowererapo kwake koyamba mu cholowa cha Yves - komanso chochititsa chidwi kwambiri pamenepo. Kuyambira pamenepo, mapewa akuluakulu akhala ofala kwambiri kotero kuti timawawona kwenikweni m'gulu lililonse. Panthawi ina, Vaccarello adayamba kutsitsa ma voliyumu, omwe anali kusuntha koyenera, ndipo mu SL FW24 munali ma jekete ochepa okha okhala ndi mapewa akulu. Izi zati, panali ubweya wambiri - monga momwe ziliri nyengo ino - ndipo unali wochuluka. Pafupifupi mtundu uliwonse unali ndi malaya akuluakulu aubweya wonyezimira - m'manja mwawo kapena pamapewa, koma nthawi zambiri m'manja mwawo - ndipo adachokera ku gulu lodziwika bwino la haute couture PE1971 ndi malaya ake achifupi a ubweya wobiriwira, omwe adamenyedwa kwambiri ndi otsutsa. kumbuyoko.

Tsopano, mawonekedwe. Ngati choperekachi chinali ndi mutu, chinali kuwonekera, komwe kumagwirizana bwino ndi chiwonetsero chatsopano cha Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Chinthu chachikulu apa chinali masiketi opapatiza owoneka bwino, omwe Vaccarello ambiri adapanga mawonekedwe ake akuluakulu, ndipo panalinso ma bustier owonekera komanso, mabulawuzi owoneka bwino a YSL okhala ndi mauta. Koma kuwonekera konseku, mwina chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa beige ndi mchenga wa Vaccarello womwe umakonda kwambiri, womwe unakhala mitundu yayikulu yosonkhanitsira, umawoneka ngati latex BDSM, komanso wofanana ndi Kubrick's sci-fi. Izi, ndithudi, ndi mtundu wa kugonana umene Yves Saint Laurent sanakhalepo nawo, ndi chikhumbo chake chonse cha zolakwa pang'ono, koma zokopa za bourgeois zomwe zinawonetsedwa makamaka mu zithunzi zotchuka za Helmut Newton za akazi a YSL a zaka za m'ma 1970. Koma uku ndikusintha komwe Vaccarello imapangitsa SL kukhala yofunika lero.

Ku niche yokongola iyi yazaka za m'ma 1970 mutha kuwonjezera ma jekete a nandolo opangidwa ndi zikopa zonyezimira, zobvala ndi miyendo yopanda kanthu. Ndipo zisoti zomangirira pamitu ya zitsanzozo, ndi makutu akuluakulu pansi pawo - monga Loulou de La Falaise m'zaka za m'ma 1970, atagwidwa pazithunzi ndi Yves mu kalabu ina yausiku, pamene onse awiri, nyenyezi ziwiri za bohemian Paris, anali pa malo awo. choyambirira.

M'malo mwake, chithunzi ichi cha kukongola kwachifalansa kwachikale ndi chic French cha Les Trente glorieuses ndi chomwe Vaccarello akuyenda tsopano. Ndipo woyimba wamkulu wa kukongola kwachikale kwa Parisian - akhale abwenzi ake a Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, omwe mumamutcha - anali Yves Saint Laurent mwiniwake, yemwe adakondwerera ma divas, femmes fatale, ndi mawonekedwe ena achikazi achi Parisian. . Masiku ano, Anthony Vaccarello adapanga chithunzichi kukhala chake, ndikuchibwezeretsanso m'mawu osinthidwa komanso amakono, ndikutsitsimutsa Yves Saint Laurent muzithunzi zake zodziwika bwino komanso zovomerezeka bwino kwambiri ndi zithunzi zachikhalidwe zodziwika bwino. Chabwino, izi ndi, monga a French anganene, une très belle collection, très féminine, zomwe angayamikire moona mtima - adakwanitsa kusintha kwa YSL kuchokera m'mbuyomu mpaka pano.

Zolemba: Elena Stafyeva