ZOCHITIKA NDI HDFASHION / February 27TH 2024

Prada FW24: kuumba zamakono

Chodabwitsa kwambiri cha Prada ndi momwe nyengo iliyonse Miuccia Prada ndi Raf Simons amatha kupanga chinthu chomwe aliyense amayamba kulakalaka nthawi yomweyo, amayamba kuvala, ndipo, chofunika kwambiri, amayamba kutsanzira, chifukwa amawona kuti ndi momwe angapangire mafashoni. lero. Kuthekera kumeneku kokhala ndi mawonekedwe okhazikika kwambiri "kachitidwe kanthawi kameneko" sikumaleka kutidabwitsa pamodzi ndi zomwe akuchita citius, altius, fortius, nyengo ndi nyengo. Zotsatira zake, ngakhale ziwonetsero zanyengo zisanayambe, mutha kunena motsimikiza 99% kuti ndi zotani zomwe zidzakhale zotsimikizika zanyengoyi.

Panthawiyi, awiriwa akuwoneka kuti adziposa okha, osapanga zosonkhanitsa zabwino kwambiri za nyengoyi, koma imodzi mwazosonkhanitsa zowoneka bwino kwambiri zazaka 10 zapitazi, osachepera, zomwe ziyenera kulowa m'mbiri zamafashoni. Zimaphatikizapo zonse zomwe timakonda za Prada ndi otsogolera ake aluso, omwe, ziyenera kunenedwa, tsopano ali ogwirizana mosagwirizana ndi kupanga kwawo.

Ngati muyesa kusanthula zosonkhanitsira izi kuti mufotokozere, mudzakhala ndi zovala zakale kuyambira kumapeto kwa zaka za zana la 19 - Prada amachitcha "Victorian" - ndi maulendo ake, ma culotte, makolala oyimilira, zipewa zokhala ndi korona, ndi mizere yopanda malire. ya mabatani ang'onoang'ono. Koma palinso zaka za m'ma 1960 ndi zovala zawo zowongoka bwino, ma cardigans oluka pang'ono, ndi zipewa zamaluwa - ndipo zonsezi ndi zopindika za ku Milanese, zomwe palibe amene amachita bwino kuposa signora Prada. Ndipo, ndithudi, zovala za amuna - masuti, malaya, nsonga zapamwamba. Monga nthawi zonse, pali zinthu zambiri zopangidwa ndi ogula, zomwe Prada nthawi zonse amakonda kuziphatikiza pazosonkhanitsa. Zoonadi, zonsezi zilipo palimodzi ndipo nthawi imodzi pakuwoneka kulikonse. Koma maumboni okhawa samalongosola kalikonse - mfundo yonse ndi momwe amachitira ndi zomwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito.

M'dziko la Prada, palibe chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zonse kapena kugwiritsidwa ntchito pazifukwa zofanana, ndipo chosonkhanitsa ichi ndi apotheosis ya njira yolenga iyi. Zomwe zimawoneka ngati suti yokhazikika kuchokera kutsogolo zikuwoneka kuti zidadulidwa ndi lumo kumbuyo ndipo tikuwona mzere ndi siketi ya silika, ndipo zomwe zili kutsogolo sizikhala siketi konse, koma apuloni yopangidwa kuchokera ku thalauza. . Siketi ina yautali ya ecru imapangidwa kuchokera ku nsalu yamtundu wina, yokhala ndi zilembo zoyambira za winawake, ndipo chovalacho chokhala ndi mauta chimaphatikizidwa ndi kapu yokhazikika yokonzedwa ndi nthenga. Ndipo pansi pa chovala chakuda chakuda, chomwe sichingadziwike bwino kuchokera ku 1950s wakale, ndi culottes wopangidwa ndi silika wosakhwima, wokwinya ngati kuti wangotulutsidwa kumene pachifuwa.

Koma uku sikungophatikiza zinthu kuchokera kumayiko amitundu yosiyanasiyana, chinyengo chomwe aliyense adaphunzira kuchokera ku Prada kalekale. Kwa Miuccia Prada ndi Raf Simons, chirichonse chiri pansi pa masomphenya awo ndipo chirichonse chimatsatira malamulo a malingaliro awo. Ndipo masomphenya awa ndi malingaliro awa ndi amphamvu kwambiri kotero kuti amaikidwa nthawi yomweyo m'maganizo mwathu, ndipo nthawi yomweyo timamvetsetsa kuti izi zidzakhala mu mafashoni, ndipo aliyense adzatuluka mu zisoti zamaluwa awa, aliyense adzavala ma culottes a silika. mathalauza / masiketi / ma apuloni adzakhala mu Instagram iliyonse. Izi ndizo mphamvu zamafashoni za Pada, ndipo izi ndi mphamvu ya kugwirizanitsa kwake, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti chirichonse chizigwira ntchito monga momwe chinafunira, ndipo chimatipatsa ife chithunzithunzi chokhutiritsa kwambiri, chamakono, chokhudzidwa kwambiri ndi ife eni.

Zokongola za Prada kwa nthawi yayitali zimatchedwa "zowoneka bwino," koma Akazi a Prada mwiniwake adalankhula za izi molondola kwambiri m'mafunso ake aposachedwa a Vogue US: "Kukhala ndi lingaliro la mkazi ngati silhouette yokongola - ayi! Ndimayesetsa kulemekeza akazi - sindimakonda kuvala madiresi okondera, okongola kwambiri. Ndimayesetsa kuchita zinthu mwanzeru kuti ndivale, zomwe zingakhale zothandiza. ” Inde, Prada yachita bwino kwambiri pamenepo.

Zolemba za Elena Stafyeva