YOCHITIKA NDI HDFASHION / May 6TH 2024

Louis Vuitton pre-fall 2024: Posaka mawonekedwe ndi silhouette

Nicolas Ghesquière awonetsa zosonkhanitsira zisanachitike kugwa kwa 2024 ku Shanghai ku Long Museum West Bund ndipo, chodabwitsa, inali defilé yoyamba ku China m'zaka zake 10 ku Louis Vuitton. Mwina chinali chaka chomwecho ndi nyumba yomwe inamulimbikitsa kuchita izi, komanso kuyambiranso ntchito yake. Chifukwa ndizomwe zidachitika m'gulu lake laposachedwa - ndipo zidachitika m'njira yopindulitsa kwambiri.

Choyamba, ziyenera kukumbukiridwa kuti Nicolas Ghesquière adayandikira chaka chake chakhumi ku Louis Vuitton mu mawonekedwe abwino kwambiri, mwina opambana kwambiri pazaka zisanu zapitazi. Kuphatikiza apo, nthawi ino Ghesquier anali kugwira ntchito ndi wojambula wachinyamata wa ku China wochokera ku Shanghai, Sun Yitian, yemwe nyama zake zonga zojambula - nyalugwe, penguin, bunny pinki ndi LV fleur de lys m'maso mwake - fufuzani lingaliro la "Made in China" kupanga zochuluka. Zithunzizi zimadziwika kale, ndipo, ndithudi, malaya amtundu wa A-line, madiresi osinthika, ndi masiketi ang'onoang'ono, komanso matumba ndi nsapato zokongoletsedwa nazo, zidzakhala zofunikira kwambiri pazosonkhanitsa - ndi mkangano waukulu pakati pa osonkhanitsa mafashoni ndi okonda mafashoni onse. Ndipo iyi ndi njira ina yatsopano kwa Yayoi Kusama, yemwe ali ndi mwayi waukulu kwambiri wamalonda, koma kuchuluka kwa makulitsidwe ake, m'lingaliro lililonse la mawu, wafika kale malire ake. Ndipo, ndithudi, zingakhale zodabwitsa, kuwonjezera pa zinyama zokongola zojambula, kuwona chinthu china chophiphiritsira komanso chochititsa chidwi kuchokera ku ntchito ya Sun Yitian, monga mutu wa Medusa kapena mutu wa Ken zomwe zinaperekedwa pachiwonetsero chake ku Paris komaliza. kugwa.

 

Koma chinthu chachikulu, monga nthawi zonse ndi Ghesquiere, chimachitika kunja kwa malo okongoletsera, koma m'malo a mawonekedwe - mwachitsanzo, kumene nyama zojambulidwa zimathera ndi madiresi opangidwa mwaluso, masiketi asymmetrical, ndi masiketi omwe ankawoneka ngati akung'ambika mchira. ndi nsonga zowongoka zopanda manja zotsekedwa pansi pa mmero (panali masiketi ambiri osiyanasiyana apa), mathalauza omwe amawoneka ngati chinthu pakati pa ma blooms ndi mathalauza a sarouel, ndipo akabudula aatali okongoletsedwa a bermuda amayamba. Ndipo pakati pa zonsezi, zidutswa zina komanso mawonekedwe athunthu adawoneka apa ndi apo, kutulutsa chisangalalo chodziwika: jekete lachikopa la ndege yokhala ndi kolala yaubweya, yomwe Ghesquière adachita kugunda koyambirira kwa Balenciaga, kuphatikiza kwa mbewu yosalala. pamwamba ndi siketi ya asymmetrical kuchokera m'gulu lake la Balenciaga SS2013, chopereka chake chomaliza cha Balenciaga. Panthawiyi, panali zowoneka bwino za mbiri yakale ya Balenciaga kuposa kale - ndipo izi zidapangitsa mitima ya mafani ake akanthawi yayitali kunjenjemera.

Koma chikhumbo sichinayambe chapangitsa kuti Ghesquière apangidwe. M'malo mwake, nthawi zonse zakhala zamtsogolo, kuyang'ana kutsogolo, osati kubwerera kufunafuna mawonekedwe atsopano. Ndipo mukawona zovala zolemera zachikopa zokhala ndi zomangira zovuta komanso matumba kapena mndandanda womaliza wa madiresi a tulip-skirt, mumazindikira kuti Ghesquiere adayamba kuwunika konse kwa kugunda kwake kwakukulu kwazaka zonse ndi zosonkhanitsa osati pazifukwa zamalingaliro, koma. monga kufunafuna njira zamtsogolo. Ndipo ali m'njira kale - maphunziro ake a mawonekedwe ndi silhouette ndi kukonzanso zakale zake zimangotsimikizira izi.

Mwachilolezo: Louis Vuitton

Zolemba: Elena Stafyeva